Leica ballistic software, need help!!!

Jeffrthehunter

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Portland Oregon
I have been I formed that the software to load custom ballistics to an micro SD card for my 3000 B HD is only available online. I have also learn you can not save your online rifle profile???? Which means if you want to make adjustments to data set you must record atmospheric info and drop data, go back home to get online, then re-build a new profile to make adjustments. Now, if im off next time I shoot I get to go through this all again. I really wish I would have gone a different route, anyone figure out a better way? Thanks Jeff
 
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Yep. Step 1: Dope your gun, step 2: build your profile to match.
I get what your saying but sometimes there needs to be adjustments, adjust velocity for a good 600 yard impact, adjust BC for a good 1000 yard impact, with three different rifles I could be making several trips home. Why not provide a downloadable program? I think I know the answer, you must visit their product page to see the software!!! Not great in my opinion.
 
I hear ya man. I use software as "try dope" and make hard copies of real world hits. Adjust velocity to match real world at ~700(ish) yards, toggle BC at ~1,400 yards or for fine adjustments. I shoot at 100 yard intervals to confirm data, then make sure software matches real world.

If you know your dope, you'll only have to make a profile once. I agree they could've made the process a little easier....but then we'd be paying $4k, haha.
 
I hear ya man. I use software as "try dope" and make hard copies of real world hits. Adjust velocity to match real world at ~700(ish) yards, toggle BC at ~1,400 yards or for fine adjustments. I shoot at 100 yard intervals to confirm data, then make sure software matches real world.

If you know your dope, you'll only have to make a profile once. I agree they could've made the process a little easier....but then we'd be paying $4k, haha.
Even though you know your drops the software may not/probably won't match it in the field. The best way I found was to program several cards with different velocities and find which one matches in the field. I have the 1st generation and the big issue with the software was that you couldn't rename the cards, if you did it corrupted the file(took a while to figure that out), so I had to program a card and put it in a zip lock bag with all the data written on the bag. Do this with several cards so you don't have to go back under different conditions. Ideally having a laptop at the range would the best but I suspect the software engineers at Leica are not shooters because no shooter would design this setup.
1st gen calculated drops out to~800 yards(advertised) I think but would give drops to 1,000 yards under ideal conditions, they easily range past a mile but don't give data. What do the 3000's advertise the ballistics to ?
 
Even though you know your drops the software may not/probably won't match it in the field. The best way I found was to program several cards with different velocities and find which one matches in the field. I have the 1st generation and the big issue with the software was that you couldn't rename the cards, if you did it corrupted the file(took a while to figure that out), so I had to program a card and put it in a zip lock bag with all the data written on the bag. Do this with several cards so you don't have to go back under different conditions. Ideally having a laptop at the range would the best but I suspect the software engineers at Leica are not shooters because no shooter would design this setup.
1st gen calculated drops out to~800 yards(advertised) I think but would give drops to 1,000 yards under ideal conditions, they easily range past a mile but don't give data. What do the 3000's advertise the ballistics to ?
My unit should give drop data out to 1000 yards with custom profile using card. The software is super basic and could easily be made available off line. I would bet the Leica engineers have a offline program for there own use and testing, why are they making it such a pain in the *ss???
 
Man.......maybe my pre order of the geovid 3200 was a but hasty. I will run mine with a kestrel elite so hopefully that solves the issue.
 
I get what your saying but sometimes there needs to be adjustments, adjust velocity for a good 600 yard impact, adjust BC for a good 1000 yard impact, with three different rifles I could be making several trips home. Why not provide a downloadable program? I think I know the answer, you must visit their product page to see the software!!! Not great in my opinion.

You haven't described what YOU are doing. Are you using the custom load tab to put in your information relative your own data?
As stated above, the best way is to go out with a note pad and a pencil after inputting GOOD DATA before try dope. The try dope will verify the data, and your dope will be the end result. You don't need a million different dopes for 1000y. On the same gun, per SD card.
If you have a solid zero, a solid MV average, and you are using a solid BC average per mach speed for you're particular bullet to rifle combo, the software will work.
 
You haven't described what YOU are doing. Are you using the custom load tab to put in your information relative your own data?
As stated above, the best way is to go out with a note pad and a pencil after inputting GOOD DATA before try dope. The try dope will verify the data, and your dope will be the end result. You don't need a million different dopes for 1000y. On the same gun, per SD card.
If you have a solid zero, a solid MV average, and you are using a solid BC average per mach speed for you're particular bullet to rifle combo, the software will work.
You are using the term "try dope", is that a function within the software?
I have a 3 hour round trip to where I can shoot long range. Not knowing my exact drop with the new scope I will have to go get data, guessing I need distances, moa of drop (will need to convert to inches for software???), temperature, air pressure, and maybe altitude. So it is one trip just for data and then I go back for testing. Based on past rifle projects i will find some error that must be adjusted for. Now on the second trip the parameters (air density) are different so hopefully when I go home and input the new info I can calculate the correct data file using software. Just saying, Sig Kilo could all be done on site.
 
You are using the term "try dope", is that a function within the software?
I have a 3 hour round trip to where I can shoot long range. Not knowing my exact drop with the new scope I will have to go get data, guessing I need distances, moa of drop (will need to convert to inches for software???), temperature, air pressure, and maybe altitude. So it is one trip just for data and then I go back for testing. Based on past rifle projects i will find some error that must be adjusted for. Now on the second trip the parameters (air density) are different so hopefully when I go home and input the new info I can calculate the correct data file using software. Just saying, Sig Kilo could all be done on site.
No, that's not a software feature. Try dope is your best guess after applying good data. You can do it with numbers or as Tangent mentioned, you can get your try dope from software.
This is my point, based on your response, I find enough error in your process, and over complications to what you're doing. So on to the first disclaimer, whenever we talk about these things we assume that technique is a non issue. So to "verify" drop, you should be hitting a target at distance at least 3 times.

Take your rangefinder, your chrono, a way to accurately get the information the the Leica website requires, like its atmospherics, IE a kestrel, and a pen and paper.

Start by documenting the load you are using for organization, the temp, air, altitude etc.

Then chrono, and verify zero. Write down MV.

shoot at 600 at a small target, 10 inch or smaller. Write down drop.

800-900 shoot, verify BC, if you don't know the Mach in which it's correct. This is the only thing you would have to tweak and you can't do it in the field, just wright down how much your come up was to hit. You can do this part later.
do this to 1000y.

take these notes, go home, get on the Leica calculator, plug in the information that you recorded. Your 600 yard drop should be about ok with just MV alone and the recorded at conditions.
800-900 yards, you want to start tweaking the bc one number at a time to alone your drop to 1000 to what you recorded from when you shot. Now it should be good next time.

next time you shoot, try to shoot in 100y increments. This is the verifying process. This was typed in a rush, so I can clarify later if needed.
 
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New scope should have same drops as the old scope.
Micro SD cards are ~$3 each so buy 10 and program them with slightly different velocities and one will fit your drops, then you have 9 left to mess with your other 2 rifles when you do the same procedure. I think I had to lower my velocity ~30fps and used the adjusted BC from the Applied Ballistics library(generally a bit lower that what the manufacturer states). My velocities are verified by LR & MS so I don't like to adjust them but it is what works in the unit so I use it.
 
No, that's not a software feature. Try dope is your best guess after applying good data. You can do it with numbers or as Tangent mentioned, you can get your try dope from software.
This is my point, based on your response, I find enough error in your process, and over complications to what you're doing. So on to the first disclaimer, whenever we talk about these things we assume that technique is a non issue. So to "verify" drop, you should be hitting a target at distance at least 3 times.

Take your rangefinder, your chrono, a way to accurately get the information the the Leica website requires, like its atmospherics, IE a kestrel, and a pen and paper.

Start by documenting the load you are using for organization, the temp, air, altitude etc.

Then chrono, and verify zero. Write down MV.

shoot at 600 at a small target, 10 inch or smaller. Write down drop.

800-900 shoot, verify BC, if you don't know the Mach in which it's correct. This is the only thing you would have to tweak and you can't do it in the field, just wright down how much your come up was to hit. You can do this part later.
do this to 1000y.

take these notes, go home, get on the Leica calculator, plug in the information that you recorded. Your 600 yard drop should be about ok with just MV alone and the recorded at conditions.
800-900 yards, you want to start tweaking the bc one number at a time to alone your drop to 1000 to what you recorded from when you shot. Now it should be good next time.

next time you shoot, try to shoot in 100y increments. This is the verifying process. This was typed in a rush, so I can clarify later if needed.
DF, thank you very much for the right up, I will do my best to follow your recommendations. When I first posted this thread I really was hoping someone had a offline program (Leica or other) that I could load on my laptop. I have muzzle velocity and should be hitting 10" target at 600" but my targets in the feild are not exact distances, canyon shooting to steel at, 575, 785, 980. So at the end of my first sesson I will have MOA recorded to hit good at those distances, plus air density. So then back home to adjust MV and BC to get similar inch drops to match to the Leica software. Does that sound right? With my Sig rangefinder I could just modify parameters in the field unit the output values (MOA adjustment) matched my scope dial to number (also MOA), very easy for a amateur.....

Again that you for the write up, your are very kind!!!!
 
New scope should have same drops as the old scope.
Micro SD cards are ~$3 each so buy 10 and program them with slightly different velocities and one will fit your drops, then you have 9 left to mess with your other 2 rifles when you do the same procedure. I think I had to lower my velocity ~30fps and used the adjusted BC from the Applied Ballistics library(generally a bit lower that what the manufacturer states). My velocities are verified by LR & MS so I don't like to adjust them but it is what works in the unit so I use it.
Wedgy, great idea on the extra cards, i have three but may get a few more. As for the scope, I was running a VX6 and the MOA adjustment was way off, 20 moa at 100 yards gave me 18.5 inches (should be closer to 21")??? My new scope is a Mark 5 and the 100 yard test was almost perfect for 20 MOA. So the parameters (MV and BC) that I have recorded in my Sig app will be way off with the new scope, do you agree?

Thanks again, Jeff
 
If the old scope was off that much(~2MOA at 100 yards, WOW !) then yes old inputs on the Sig will be off. Did you upgrade to the Mk5 or warranty it ?
What are the outputs for the new HD-b's ? The old ones gave MOA but it was rounded to .5 , drop in inches, and a couple others but I found that the "clicks" on the scope(.25 MOA) to be the most accurate. For example, if it ranged 500 yards then it would display a "20" which meant 20 clicks on the scope which would be 5 MOA.
Again on the different cards, you could not rename them as different files for identification or it would corrupt the file. Hopefully they changed this as I labelled them in little zip lock bags which really seems stupid for such an "advanced" piece of tech.
Good luck and keep us posted
 
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