earlcurtis67
Well-Known Member
If you were to make you're own scope ring lapping bar, what size should it be? 1.00?
a little under, say .990 ? or a little over, say 1.010? thanks E
a little under, say .990 ? or a little over, say 1.010? thanks E
If you were to make you're own scope ring lapping bar, what size should it be? 1.00?
a little under, say .990 ? or a little over, say 1.010? thanks E
I agree, solvent wiping doesn't completely remove lapping compound from the ring. I've found that lapping compound does comes off with Scotch tape, however. I first clean the ring with alcohol. I then lay a piece of tape over the lapped surface, press it in with my finger, then pull it off. Repeat and all lapping compound is gone....DO NOT use lapping compound!!!! It will embed in the rings and ruin the scope tube on down the road. Somebody sells a "non charging" lapping compound, and it just washes out of the metal with a little lighter fluid. Comes in a yellow powder form, and you mix a little bit in three in one oil. gary
1.000, +/- .003 is what I use. Drill rod works fine. The lapping compound will increase the diameter about .002. Most rings also flex a little when tightened, so a final ring diameter within about .003" of the scope tube diameter seems to work well.
I agree, solvent wiping doesn't completely remove lapping compound from the ring. I've found that lapping compound does comes off with Scotch tape, however. I first clean the ring with alcohol. I then lay a piece of tape over the lapped surface, press it in with my finger, then pull it off. Repeat and all lapping compound is gone.
I always use RingTrue tape after lapping. RingTrue™ Tape for Three Scopes
0.0025", including the adhesive. After lapping the rings are usually about 0.002" oversize, and most rings flex about the same amount. When using RingTrue tape the scope tube fits a little snug but the tube can still be moved back and forth and rotated.How thick is that Ring True tape?
Going to a gunsmith for every scope install just isn't practical for a lot of shooters. If someone has just a few rifles and a gunsmith nearby, sure. Most folks are almost forced to do it themselves. The right tools make it possible to get consistently good results.I am one of those guys that don't like to lap or ream scope rings because it is very easy to screw them up. First , I would recommend going to a smith that has the tools and has done this. Next , I would recommend that if you have not done/tried this "don't" without the proper tools. Then , If you still want to do it buy a Scope ring reamer (Some where around $100.00). It is much easier to use and will make the ID of the rings true and round. anyone that has used them can tell you the correct way and save you time and the cost of a set of rings. Lapping is not an exact science and can do more harm than good IMO. and in many cases not necessary if the rings are aligned properly in the first place. I was always worried about marking expensive scopes, not to mention the possibility of flexing the scope tube due to improper alignment of the rings so I started trying different ways to prevent this. Lapping was one of the ways, then reaming and then I started trying different methods of installation that would align the rings before the scope was installed. There are different techniques for different bases but rarely if done correctly, do I have to reject a set of rings and bases. I have never used my lapping bars or reamers on a scope install after testing was done and if a set of rings will not align, I replace them. If the replacement rings are/were not available in a timely manor and I needed them fast I would resort to reaming them. J E CUSTOM
JE has brought up an interesting point about scope ring alignment that has got me thinking. When i install the bases (weaver) i only screw down the bolts lightly to allow the bases to move and align themselves to the scope but stay put while removing the rings and scope. then tighten and torque the bases. This only solves the problem of perpendicular (?) alignment but not horizontal. What if you used short studs instead of the base screws, set the bases over the studs, then install the rings and scope, then much like a rail or one piece base you could check for horizontal misalignment of the bases to the reciever. Then if needed, bed the bases or base that is out.
I realize this may be overkill, but lapping or reaming would not be nessesarry, or at least minimize it. I also realize that the quality of the bases and rings will go a long way to minimize misalignment, but we cant do anything about the condition of the receiver or the alignment of the reciver screw holes
If anyone has a better or simpler way to align two piece rings rings, by all means......E