Laminate Stock Repair
- Thread starter shooter0610
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I like the way you think!
A whole lotta overcomplicating in some of the above methinks...
I don't believe dowels, biscuits, or any complicated shiznit is needed. It'll only make perfect alignment more difficult.
Line up the parts, pre-drill with correct size bit for some skinny #6 long screws.
West System epoxy, lightly heat both parts to warm them up and brush on epoxy. Apply more LIGHT heat- too hot and you'll kick-off the epoxy. A little heat reduces the viscosity of the epoxy and allows it to penetrate into the laminate (like Git-Rot for you boaters).
After that, I'd mix another small batch of epoxy with some 406 colloidal silica to thicken it up/fill any gaps and add strength to the joint. Join the parts, lightly tighten the screws (you don't want it all to squeeze out- leave a thin layer for strength) and let it cure.
The epoxy joint will be stronger than the wood.
I don't believe dowels, biscuits, or any complicated shiznit is needed. It'll only make perfect alignment more difficult.
Line up the parts, pre-drill with correct size bit for some skinny #6 long screws.
West System epoxy, lightly heat both parts to warm them up and brush on epoxy. Apply more LIGHT heat- too hot and you'll kick-off the epoxy. A little heat reduces the viscosity of the epoxy and allows it to penetrate into the laminate (like Git-Rot for you boaters).
After that, I'd mix another small batch of epoxy with some 406 colloidal silica to thicken it up/fill any gaps and add strength to the joint. Join the parts, lightly tighten the screws (you don't want it all to squeeze out- leave a thin layer for strength) and let it cure.
The epoxy joint will be stronger than the wood.
SSgt G Cody
Well-Known Member
I come from a family of woodworkers, carpenters, and furniture makers. Plus, I'm a structural engineer. I have built and repaired gun stocks and expensive guitars for many years. For your wood laminate stock butt repair, to replace the 2 in. you cut off the end, a very strong fix would be to use 1-hour epoxy in a snugly clamped configuration. Use 2 long clamps, one on each side. Do Not over tighten. Wipe off excess epoxy. Once epoxy is dried & cured, clean and sand glue line area. Mark and drill Holes for butt pad. Then also drill, countersink, and attach 2-3in construction screws (or deck screws) to reinforce butt bond joint. Drilled hole should be 3/32in., or half screw diameter. Sand with-the-grain with 240, then 400 grit sandpaper; Then clean and finish with tung oil, or finish of your choice. Best of luck!
A brand new Boyds stock cost me 183 dollars and I added pillars which brought the total of 245.71.That included shipping.
I will have a little work fitting the action into the stock and some bedding.
Hard rock
Well-Known Member
Don't over think this get some Brownells glass bedding gel mix it color it too match the best you can rough the wood up on both sides put the compound on screw it on with two wood screws out of the way of pad and work the wood back down and refinish pre fit everything screw holes pad etc take back apart then glass it keep it simple it will have a line where the repair was done but it will look fine for a work rifle good luck easy repair
