capona
Well-Known Member
43.0 is the max on the Hodgdon website. And since this is an AR10 he should probably follow the sevice rifle max of 42.3 .Dont know if this was said but I think between 42.8 and 43.1 is where you should test
43.0 is the max on the Hodgdon website. And since this is an AR10 he should probably follow the sevice rifle max of 42.3 .Dont know if this was said but I think between 42.8 and 43.1 is where you should test
43.0 is the max on the Hodgdon website. And since this is an AR10 you should probably follow the sevice rifle max of 42.3 .By the way, how in the world does Hornady's Superformance factory ammo get such great velocities? This same rifle shoots a Superformance SST 165 grain bullet at an average of 2792 fps.
I'd like to use whatever they are using.
If there are no signs of over pressure I don't see a problem, neck tension can have a big effect on pressure, too much can be a no go but less neck tension will lower the pressure, we don't know what he's got but if there are no signs of pressure is what I think is important and you need to educate yourself on these signs or ask.43.0 is the max on the Hodgdon website. And since this is an AR10 you should probably follow the sevice rifle max of 42.3 .
If there are no signs of over pressure I don't see a problem, neck tension can have a big effect on pressure, too much can be a no go but less neck tension will lower the pressure, we don't know what he's got but if there are no signs of pressure is what I think is important and you need to educate yourself on these signs or ask.I agree target and vel[ocityQUOTE="asd9055, post: 2402760, member: 73445"] Don't let them confuse you with the target. It has to be at 300 yards or longer to be significant. Really IMHO is you should be doing the combination target/velocity....but what you did works as well
If your velocity is consistent but your groups are bad I don't see how that can be a good load although they usually go hand in handIf there are no signs of over pressure I don't see a problem, neck tension can have a big effect on pressure, too much can be a no go but less neck tension will lower the pressure, we don't know what he's got but if there are no signs of pressure is what I think is important and you need to educate yourself on these signs or ask.
Im not saying your way is wrong or right.Im suggesting a different route as to not let barrel heat affect your test by shooting one or 2 different loads and Round Robin it around and 10 different targets.I do it almost the same except I start taking multiple shots and using the average and starting with larger steps and getting smaller. For example, I would probably of loaded this latter 41x1, 41.4x1, 41.8x1, 42.2x2, 42.5x2, 42.7x2, 43x3, 43.2x3, 42.4x3, 42.6x2. It takes a few more shots but I it has never given me bad results.
Thin barrel is good for five shots, thick barrel is good for 10 in most circumstances, lowest variation in fps is where you want to be along with grouping, find where everything comes together and work up and down from there, once you find that then go back to seating, see what works, don't forget that neck tension and straightness of the round can also have big effects on accuracy so it's important that you keep everything consistent when reloading, I never full length size anymore, it creates to many variables and works your brass a lot.Im not saying your way is wrong or right.Im suggesting a different route as to not let barrel heat affect your test by shooting one or 2 different loads and Round Robin it around and 10 different targets.
Its just a suggestion.It really has nothing to do with how you spread out you charge weights.Its only to give each different charge a equally fair Shot without Barrel Heat playing a big factor. It works much better than waiting and letting a barrel cool off as to try to negate the rising heat Temps.Good Luck
OKay...GOOD LUCKThin barrel is good for five shots, thick barrel is good for 10 in most circumstances, lowest variation in fps is where you want to be along with grouping, find where everything comes together and work up and down from there, once you find that then go back to seating, see what works, don't forget that neck tension and straightness of the round can also have big effects on accuracy so it's important that you keep everything consistent when reloading, I never full length size anymore, it creates to many variables and works your brass a lot.
OKay...GOOD LUCK
Ok so what do you say, i would like to read your method, what don't you agree with, please share your method cause I don't mind learning.OKay...GOOD LUCK
I've done it both ways but when doing it round robin I still don't load multiples of the lower charges, I only do it for safety.Im not saying your way is wrong or right.Im suggesting a different route as to not let barrel heat affect your test by shooting one or 2 different loads and Round Robin it around and 10 different targets.
Its just a suggestion.It really has nothing to do with how you spread out you charge weights.Its only to give each different charge a equally fair Shot without Barrel Heat playing a big factor. It works much better than waiting and letting a barrel cool off as to try to negate the rising heat Temps.Good Luck
If you can get you some Century 21 Mandrels. Make sure your shoulder bump is always equal by checking it with your comparator .Get you a Concentricity Tool..Lube your case necks when loading with One Shot using a swab. Make sure you are seating each round the same depth. Measure with a comparator BTO ( base to Ojive. Not COAL ( cartridge Over All Length.) And dont chase the lands man..When you check your JAM and when the bullet does not stick..back off 0.020 and start from there increasing ..Not Decreasing.I've done it both ways but when doing it round robin I still don't load multiples of the lower charges, I only do it for safety.