Just wanted to get some advice and opinions.

trevor73402

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2009
Messages
132
Hello,

I just wanted to say that I think this is a great forum and Im glad to be here. My name is Trevor and I am 29 yrs old. Ive been shooting and hunting since I was 6 when I got my first chipmunk .22 with a little 6X burris scope. Ive recently got intrested in long range shooitng and Im thirsty for knowledge!! I have my own reloading equipment, but im far from an expert. I just know how to do the basics of reloading and look in the speer manual for powder/charge rates. I bought a Rem. 700 SPS in 300WSM with a 26" heavy (bull) barrell.....it may be a 24" come to think of it? I got a Nikon Buckmaster scope 6-18X40 mil dot scope with a Nightforce one piece base with an added 20MOA built into the base with a set of Burris heavy tactical rings holding it on. I will say that I am not happy with the scope, but it does have some nice large target style turrets. I should have ponied up and got a better scope, but i wasnt sure what I needed. My goal was to work my way up to be able to shoot and hit plate sized targets at 1000yds, but I didnt know just how much was involved in this process and me being a "perfectionist" on the stuff I get into its beginning to get the best of me. I asked around and decided to load up some rounds for my new set-up. This is what i came up with.
Win. New brass
215 Primer
H4350 powder at 64.5 grains
210gr Berger VLD Target's

I had to seat the bullets deeper than I wanted to in order to get them to feed through the mag and into the barrel. Im not sure of the exact lenght or even how to really measure it, but I just know that the bullet is actually setting on top of (touching) the powder charge in the brass. Ive loaded and shot about 50 rounds so far with a 100 yd zero and a 200 yd zero....its about 16 clicks up on my scope at 1/8 clicks for the 200yd. At 100 and 200 yards i can shoot 5 shot groups off cheap sand bags and a lawn chair where all 5 shots are touching each other and usually 1 or 2 in the same hole. How good is this?

My reason for this message is to get opinions on my set-up, my load, and my scope (what kind to buy). After deer season ends I plan to really spend alot of time with this gun and shooting it. I just want to make sure Im starting off right before I start putting in the range time. I would also love to eventually compete once I feel I am good enough.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
My email is [email protected]

Thanks,
 
From having been where you are and doing what I did, I'll interlace some comments/opinions into your post. Remember this is just me coming from where I've been

Hello,

Ive recently got intrested in long range shooitng and Im thirsty for knowledge!! I have my own reloading equipment, but im far from an expert. I just know how to do the basics of reloading and look in the speer manual for powder/charge rates. I bought a Rem. 700 SPS in 300WSM with a 26" heavy (bull) barrell.....it may be a 24" come to think of it? A pretty decent rig for what you wish to do. I got a Nikon Buckmaster scope 6-18X40 mil dot scope with a Nightforce one piece base with an added 20MOA built into the base with a set of Burris heavy tactical rings holding it on.Also a pretty decent set up for what you wish to do with some great availability to upgrade when you desire. The only down side to the scope I would mention would be the 40mm objective. It will be great for punching paper and competition as these avtivities are usually done when the sun is high in the sky. Under low light conditions you may find yourself stuck on the lower power settings to achieve visibility. I will say that I am not happy with the scope, but it does have some nice large target style turrets. Here's where you will want to get some pills to lower the tinkeritus syndrom. I have it really bad and should be avoided. Reducing the tendency of tinkeritus will get one further down the LRH road without wearing our barrels and expending powder/bullet/primer/case resouces. About now, if you haven't already tap into a decent external ballistics program. Google on "JBM" which is a very good one and web based. Exbal or Patagonia's wil save resources and time. I should have ponied up and got a better scope, but i wasnt sure what I needed. You can pony up anytime you wish. You done good on this decision. My goal was to work my way up to be able to shoot and hit plate sized targets at 1000yds, Piece of cake with your rig when you get it right. but I didnt know just how much was involved in this process and me being a "perfectionist" on the stuff Hmmmm, perfectionist, some how that rings a bell. Celexa helps.:rolleyes: The important thing is to know what perfection is and what isn't necessary or overkill just to keep your head straight. Example: When goal is hitting the 1K 1MOA gong, fitting the cartridge to the magazine isn't perfection. Shooting single shot is closer to perfection. However, for actual hunting it's exactly the other way around. Thus all of my LRH rifles including my carry gun are single shots. If I have two things to keep track of I tend to loose track of one of them. :) I get into its beginning to get the best of me. I asked around and decided to load up some rounds for my new set-up. This is what i came up with.
Win. New brass
215 Primer
H4350 powder at 64.5 grains
210gr Berger VLD Target's

I had to seat the bullets deeper than I wanted to in order to get them to feed through the mag and into the barrel. See above example. Im not sure of the exact lenght or even how to really measure it, but I just know that the bullet is actually setting on top of (touching) the powder charge in the brass. Knowing the exact overall length of the loaded cartridge is one thing. Having it set to the most accuract setting for that particular rifle is another. (If it shoots to your expectations, and it seems to be doing very well, who cares the exact dimension) Got to the Stickies on the home page and click on the one where Eric describes setting COAL for Berger bullets. Important stuff for any bullet. Ive loaded and shot about 50 rounds so far Hmmm, didja think to or do a proper barrel break in. Click on Dan Lilja's drop down on this site and read about barrel break in. with a 100 yd zero and a 200 yd zero....its about 16 clicks up on my scope at 1/8 clicks for the 200yd. Here's where the external ballistics program comes in handy. If you don't know the MV, assume one, and plug your numbers in to the code. From the drop at 200 from 100 yds, using the published BC you can gestimate the MV by plugging and running the code. As you shoot farther atmospheric data will become more important. Google on a local weather station to find atmospheric conditions. Or ponie up some of those coins saved on the scope for a hand held weather station. (Search on "weather Station" here for discussion. The first one you buy will last a lifetime unless a horse steps on it or somethin'. At 100 and 200 yards i can shoot 5 shot groups off cheap sand bags and a lawn chair where all 5 shots are touching each other and usually 1 or 2 in the same hole. How good is this? This sounds pretty decent. Also, there ain't no such thing as a cheap sand bag. Some are more expensive looking but all if they hold any sand at all are of about the same effectiveness. I'd suggest snagging a deal on a bipod. Everyone seems hooked on and doing well with the Harris type. I am intolerant of all the noise they make with the springs, etc. Google/Bing on "shooting bug holes from bipod.)

When LRH or f-class you'll be shooting off of a bipod so why not get used to it.

My reason for this message is to get opinions on my set-up, my load, and my scope (what kind to buy). After deer season ends I plan to really spend alot of time with this gun and shooting it. If you notice most of the stuff mentioned to come up to speed on have nothing to do with "shooting it," Though shootin the fun part, and accuracy is definitly addictive I sure do waste a lot of good barrel. I just want to make sure Im starting off right before I start putting in the range time. I would also love to eventually compete once I feel I am good enough.

You'll know your "good enough" or ready when you're down to shooting one cold bore shot every once in awhile, at a random (ranged) distance and placing that shot within 1 moa or better of the point of aim. Think about that for a bit. You'll start to see the large difference between the single cold bore shot at a random distance and the 5 shot groups at 100 or 200 yds.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
My email is [email protected]

Thanks,

On the lighter side from now on don't count sheep as you attempt to fall asleep with all of this kind of stuff going on in your head. Repeat, in your mind "THE WIND IS MY FRIEND" over and over and over again.:)

Oh, measuring groups CTC (Center to Center) of widest shots in the group and report in "inches" at X yards. Its easier to understand. And, don't get too excited about those holes in holes unless they are all in the same hole. It's taken me years and years to get over that kind of thinking. Statistics says that is going to happen. More often when overall groups are small.

When you shoot those cold bore shots over a period of time, use the same target. Using the same target will, as you improve, build more confidence which feeds on itself. Andy you won't wear out a barrel getting there.

HTH
 
The only thing that I'd add for now is for you to buy a chronograph. This batch of bullets/powder/primers seem to be working pretty well for you, but you don't know the fps of the load. Yes, the ballistic calculator can figure that out, but for less wear and tear on the barrel a chronograph works wonders. You can also try and lower the SD of the loads if they start to vertical string once you start shooting at a longer distance.
 
trevor70342,
Welcome to LRH!! You've come to the right place to learn. I still cant get over how much I've taken in from all the experienced riflemen/women on this site.
+1 on gettting a chrony, I could have saved myself some headaches if I bucked up right away.
The other thing I would mention is possibly having two loads for hunting. I use a load with the 300gr Matchking (.338 RUM) seated almost to the lands, that is way to long for the mag, and I shoot it single shot for if I want to really reach out. I then also carry a load that is lighter and faster that fits the mag. I'm just starting to experiment with 225 grain Barnes.

Once again, Welcome!
 
I'm no expert by any means i try to learn as much as i can all the time and get different ideas from many folks. For sure get a chrony, well worth the money. Don't remember if you said you was getting this gun for hunting or not but if you are wanting to build rounds for long range shooting and hunting it is for sure a good idea to work with different loads. I am currently deciding on my caliber but i'm having a rifle built that i can take to the range and shoot paper or take out west hunting and as soon as i get it, as with most of my rifles, i will start trying different grain bullets with different powder charges in groups of five to see which load i get the best accuracy out of. Also in my 308 i loaded rounds for shooting at the range as close to the lands as i could, however i did have seperate rounds loaded that would fit in the magazine for hunting. I just kept track of how differently they shot. Hope this info helps.
 
I just want to say thank you for the helpful replies. I will start looking for a chrono and see what i can find. My original goal with this rifle was just to be able to shoot paper/targets out to 1000yds just so that I could say ive accuratley shot a rifle at 1000 yds.....i guess you could just call it a personal accomplishment. Ive always been intrigued by long range shooting, hunting, sniper type stuff and Ive always been a pretty decent shot since I was a child and Ive always wanted to persue distance shooting to see if I had a nack for it so I finally jumped in. Im sure I will have many more questions to come as I get deeper into this and start to increase my distances.

Thanks again,
 
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