JP or Defensive Edge?

[Tyler Kemp]

I want the most effective muzzlebrake to use for range use and varmints. I will remove the brake when hunting, so noise is not an issue. Also, I don't find the JP to be especially "ugly", or the Defensive Edge. Which one would be the best choice to see hits through a scope?

I'm also open to other models if there is a more effective brake available.

 

[Ernie]

I would add Holland's to the mix and Kirby makes a brake for some of his big boy cartridges as well.

What chambering?

 

[Tyler Kemp]

6mm Ackley (yes I know I don't "need" one), and then if I like it hopefully for a bigger caliber long range gun, such as 7mm STW or 300 RUM.

Where can I see Kirby's brake?

 

[Ernie]

I would email Kirby
[email protected]

 

[lerch]

Go with the DE brake, the JP looks like you welded a taco to your bbl!!!!!!

The DE works amazingly well, i am very impressed with both of the ones that i have used. BJ used a JP for a while and it did work pretty dang good but **** it was ugly!!

 

[Tyler Kemp]

If I had the brake set up for a 7mm bullet would it be effective on the 6mm too? I don't need lots of recoil relief from the 6mm, but any would be helpful, along with taking away muzzle rise.

 

[James Jones]

If your barrel is set up and threaded properly and the brake is built well you will only need a bullet hole abot .030"-.040" over the bullet diameter , I have seen sevaral mass produced brakes that came with a pre reamed bullet hole that was .100" over bullet diameter.

So yes the same brake will work on your 6mm that works on your 7mm , if you setup some fance measuring equiptment that could tell the differance between a bullet hole that .030" over and one that is .100" over , then that would be the only way to tell.

 

[James Jones]

this is also the brake I recomend , Nathan Dagley build and installs them and they work as good probably better than any other I've tried next to the huge Tank brakes like the JP , clik the link bellow to hit his web page

 

[Buffalobob]

As I have been advised, a brake that needs to be indexed should not be removed very often. I have also been advised but never actually tested it myself that a barrel will shoot to a different point of impact with and without the brake.

I like the DE brake but it is indexed. A Vias type brake might suit your needs better for taking off and on a lot, but gas will come up into the field of view and downward blowing up dirt. Finally, a brake works off of the velocity and amount of gas coming down the barrel (and the perpendicular surface area impacted). The smaller the amount of powder being burned results in the smaller the effect of the brake reducing recoil. The 6mm will not get the same reduction as a larger case but then it does not need it.

Now the thing that your mother never told you is that even the most effective brakes do not eliminate the cloud of gas that travels straight out the barrel and momentarily obscures your vision. Even with the DE brake when the rilfe just barely moves and the brake affected gas is deflected sideways, it takes a part of a second for the gas that followed the bullet to clear. So when you go toad frog hunting and shoot an angry charging toad frog at 15 feet do not expect to spot your hit.

 

[Tyler Kemp]

What do you mean when a brake has to "indexed"?

Say I could set the break up to have a very small gap with a 7mm bullet and have maximum effectiveness, and it would still work "ok" with a 6mm bullet, that would be ideal. I don't plan on switching barrels (and brakes) much because I don't switch my own barrels over. I would most likely change the break a couple times a year, take it off for silhouette season, put it on when not shooting silhouette, and put it on the 7mm STW a bit before deer season to practice and possibly hunt with it on.

I'm still torn between which brake to use. I wish I could find a study with the effectiveness of different brakes.

 

[Buffalobob]

If you look at the brake that James Jones posted, it has slots like a DE brake that should be exactly to the left and right when on the barrel. The gunsmith has to start/ end the threads on the barrel and on the brake so that when it is screwed on the brakes has the slots on the sides and is not slightly rotated.

I do not have the slightest clue how a gunsmith actually gets it right, but they do it and it is called indexed. Kirby Allen told me not to be screwing the brake on and off a lot (even though he built me a cap as I asked) because it would slowly lose its index. I did not ask him whether it would be 30 times or 300 times. In fact, I cannot even remember where I put the cap for safe keeping.

 

[Tyler Kemp]

I e-mailed him about his brakes. When he responds I'll ask about how long it is before indexing is off. I want to use this gun for silhouette matches which require no brake, but would like to see hits when just practicing on stuff.