J-lock Rem 700 Question?

[Glock119]

I have a Rem 700 BDL long action with the new J-Lock feature on the bolt shroud.

I was told that I had to get after market shroud in order to have trigger work done. Is this correct?

When I was told this, I thought that I could just get older style bolt assembly but I was told this would change the head space. Is this true?

From what I understand I don't believe either is true but thought maybe someone that does smith work could shed some light.

Thanks for any help.

 

[demarpaint]

I was told that I had to get after market shroud in order to have trigger work done. Is this correct? No, just adjust the trigger.

When I was told this, I thought that I could just get older style bolt assembly but I was told this would change the head space. Is this true? Yes...... Anytime you change the bolt, head space must be checked and adjusted. At the factory head space is set to the bolt that is used when assembling the rifle. If the bolt is just swapped a dangerous situation can arise. If you were to call Remington for a replacement bolt for your rifle they will not sell it to you unless you ship them the rifle for them to headspace it. You can however buy after market bolts but they still must be head spaced!

Hope this helps,
Frank D

PS I am not a smith but have been down this road.......

[ 12-06-2004: Message edited by: demarpaint ]

 

[TOM H]

To get rid of the j-lock they offer firing pin assembly which includes a new shroud or you can just get a shroud. I had heard some stories about that j-lock etc and think maybe your gunsmith is just trying to play safe and before I had my trigger work done I got rid of the j-lock. I'm not a gunsmith

 

[Glock119]

thanks, do either of you know if there older stlye shrouds will fit in place of the newer shrouds. my thought was it should but i'm not a smith and really would only be guessing myself. thanks again.

 

[milanuk]

Changed out a J-lock last spring on my 6.5-08. Put in a Tubb SpeedLock wanted to go w/ a new shroud. Despite what Brownell's told me, I needed an *old* length cocking piece, and an *old* size bolt shroud. The new J-lock cocking piece is slightly longer to accomodate the lock mechanism in the shroud.

Not a terribly difficult job, w/ the right tools (voice of experience, after being impatient and doing it w/o the right tools first). Get a bolt assembly changing tool, such as the Kleindorst tool from Sinclair's, it's handy for taking the whole assembly (shroud, pin, spring) out of the bolt body for cleaning anyway, and then get their Possum Hollow mainspring changing tool.

Basically all you do is remove the major assembly from the bolt body, put it in the mainspring changing tool, and crank on the knob until it takes the tension off. Unscrew the shroud, slip out the pin retaining the cocking piece to the firing pin, change the parts, and reassemble. It's been a while so bear w/ me if the description isn't exact or misses something.

Monte

 

[TOM H]

Reason I changed the whole assembly was that firing pin spring looked like a snake. I really cann't answer about just the shroud but think you could use an after market shroud with the right tools.

 

[Glock119]

Milanuk - do you think i would be able to use parts off one of the older assemblys or can only use after market part?

Ithank everyone for their help and input.

 

[LDO]

for about $80 from sinclair you can get the whole thing-shroud-pin etc.-it is made by Piercision-they seem to be pretty good as i have one ,and it slightly cheaper than buying all of the other parts seperately-my-2-dave

 

[LDO]

in a pinch a shoelace works good for removing the firing pin assembly-just loop it over the cocking piece and pull then turn -dave

 

[Shawn Carlock]

You can simply adjust the trigger with no side effects. You can switch bolt shrouds but the cocking piece will be to long, shorten or replace(shortening should be don by a smith). I woulld recommend replacing the j-lock on a precision rifle, I've seen them cause accuracy issues from erratic lock times and gun movement, from the firing pin hitting or rubbing on the cam for the j-lock. If you adjust the trigger and it shoots up to your expectations, your good to go.

Shawn

Oh yea, I own Defensive Edge Gunsmithing & Tactical Training

 

[Dead Beat]

i had a trigger job done on my rem. 700 with the j lock and my acurracy went to heck would the jay lock cause that

 

[Glock119]

I found what i was looking for. Brownells has a Factory-original, firing pin assembly eliminates the ISS bolt lock system (J-Lock)on the current production, Remington 700 rifle to make it like they used to be. Features a blued or stainless bolt shroud with standard firing pin, cocking piece and firing pin spring.

Thanks everyone for your help and input.

By the way what after market trigger would the group recommend? Thanks again

[ 12-06-2004: Message edited by: shadowman ]

[ 12-06-2004: Message edited by: shadowman ]

 

[Shawn Carlock]

Dead Beat,
If the rifle was shooting good and started to shoot badly it is unlikely that the jlock caused it. Usually if the jlock is an issue, it will be right from the get go.

Shadowman,
I have had good luck with the Jewell triggers. there are many triggers for the 700 but I like to have a safety on mine and many of the others don't. The Jewell is also made of stainless a plus in my book.

Shawn