Is my thinking correct..168 TSX

gordonl

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I am shooting 168 A-Max's out of my 30-06 at just under 1 MOA at about 2850fps.

I want to use the 168 TTSX and match it to my A max so that I can effortlessly go from the range/long rang dear using the A max to big game of elk/moose and the not so big hogs using a similar trajectory. Is this a good idea? I am thinking that even past its 1850fps expansion it will still be punching a 30 cal hole through game(kinda like an FMJ)...as long as I have my aim on point I should be good right?
Or should i be going heavier...or should I use a completely dif bullet?
 
I also do two different loads for each rifle. But I think you are asking if they will be the same trajectory and load. The answer is two completely different animals. Only thing in common is weight. But the Barnes being mono it will be much longer and thus have completely different pressure and loading data. But nothing wrong with two different. They may end up being close enough in trajectory to be very close out to a few hundred yards.
 
I also do two different loads for each rifle. But I think you are asking if they will be the same trajectory and load. The answer is two completely different animals. Only thing in common is weight. But the Barnes being mono it will be much longer and thus have completely different pressure and loading data. But nothing wrong with two different. They may end up being close enough in trajectory to be very close out to a few hundred yards.

The Barnes bullet will typically run a little higher in pressure than the Amax. So vel will generally be a bit less. They should run pretty close on poi out quite a ways, close enough for hunting.

Steve
 
Steve,
I've had a few experiences (nothing scientific) that have left me with the impression switching back and forth with the mono-metals doesn't work that well.

Whichever one I start with, I need to clean to "bare" metal to get decent results with the other.

Not to say unusable, but less than optimal. Your thoughts?
 
Boy, you have a lot of variables to match up to get the points on impact to be the same...finding the right amount of powder to match poi will be an achievement but dealing with bullet trajectories and matching down range is another story altogether....you could get them to hit at 200 yards but then design will cause the difference from there, I'm not sure you ever could get two bullet designs to be exact...since you mentioned hunting moose with a kill zone as big as a beach ball I hardly think a foot of difference would matter much anyway...the kill zone size matters in this case... A good Barnes triple shok will take out his lungs with a hit anywhere in them in short order....just seems like a big task down range 300-1000 to get two different bullet to match exactly...good luck and get that shoulder in shape for a lot of testing.
 
You might be better served if you used the gilding metal alloy of Hornady's GMX bullet. That way you shouldn't have to clean before switching bullets.
 
Steve,
I've had a few experiences (nothing scientific) that have left me with the impression switching back and forth with the mono-metals doesn't work that well.

Whichever one I start with, I need to clean to "bare" metal to get decent results with the other.

Not to say unusable, but less than optimal. Your thoughts?

I had to think a bit. I don't think I have ever gone from one to the other. So I can not give an experience. I no Brian went to the range the other day an did load development for a guy with a 300rum that had been shooting Bergers and loaded him with Hammers. They got better accuracy than he had with the Bergers. They only shot short range though. I'll have to ask him if they cleaned before shooting. He will probably chime in here at some point.

It seems like Phorwath has done some mixing of bullets for hunting in AK. Perhaps he will chime in here as well.

I never figured that the op would be able to shoot the two bullets out to long range and match drops. I am guessing that the Barnes would match the drop good enough to hunt short range (200y-300y) with out making an adjustment to the dope for the Amax.

Steve


Steve
 
AMax is a "match bullet"
Bullets - Hornady Manufacturing, Inc
I wouldn't be using it for hunting

The Amax is well known to work quite well for hunting, my brother bunched up a bull last year, bullet entered behind the shoulder, shredded the heart and lungs the broke the of shoulder and we found it under the hide, 140 AMX starting at 3150 fps. I've seen some pretty bad stuff happen when the coppers from two different bullets don't get along!!
 
I use the same load for 140 Berger VLD's, 140 AMAX and 140 Ballistic Tips in my 6.5 CM.

The Bergers are the most accurate and I prefer them for punching paper but I have a decent stockpile of BT's and AMAX. It was just curiosity on my part. I had worked up the load for the Bergers, then checked the Hornady and Nosler manuals and both had the same bullet weight, powder brand and powder weight range for them all. So I was "safe". Main thing was tweaking seating depth. But the AMAX and BT's still shoot right at 1 MOA at 200 yards.
 
The Amax is well known to work quite well for hunting, my brother bunched up a bull last year, bullet entered behind the shoulder, shredded the heart and lungs the broke the of shoulder and we found it under the hide, 140 AMX starting at 3150 fps. I've seen some pretty bad stuff happen when the coppers from two different bullets don't get along!!

Rhian,

Expand on the coppers that don't get along.

Steve
 
I have hunted with 30-06 Cal rifles shooting with 165 Grain bullets most of my hunting life with excellent results on Moose, Elk and Deer. IMO the 165 Grain bullet shoots best out of the 30-06, so I think that the 168 Gr. TTSX would work great as well.

Just out of curiosity, what do you consider long range and what type of scope do you shoot with?
 
Rhian,

Expand on the coppers that don't get along.

Steve

I've seen a couple times where a change in bullet during load development took the pressures to insane in a few shots and the bullets were literally blowing up inside the brake, it took some serious cleaning to get the copper out, had to use the Outers electrode rod to get it all out.
 
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