Skimbleshanks
Well-Known Member
Hate to say it but if you get consistant .5" groups with factory ammo why reload. .5" with 225s should do most of what you need. What are you wanting to do with this rifle?
Is inconsistent soot on the neck of fired cases my problem?
- Thread starter Blaster01
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I'm realoading as more of a hobby. I started it on another rifle over a year ago and now it's so fun that I can't stop. Plus I figure I better start now so when I have a rifle that actually needs it, I'll know how.
Ball powders? Use a magnum primer. https://www.shootingtimes.com/editorial/ammunition_st_mamotaip_200909/100079
"Standard primers caused no ignition issues at the max load but posted higher extreme variations in pressure and velocity in the lower pressure regimes of the start loads. In extreme cases, the start loads produced short delayed firings — probably in the range of 20 to 40 milliseconds but detectible to an experienced ballistician. Switching that propellant to a Magnum primer smoothed out the performance across the useful range of charge weights and completely eliminated the delays."
"Standard primers caused no ignition issues at the max load but posted higher extreme variations in pressure and velocity in the lower pressure regimes of the start loads. In extreme cases, the start loads produced short delayed firings — probably in the range of 20 to 40 milliseconds but detectible to an experienced ballistician. Switching that propellant to a Magnum primer smoothed out the performance across the useful range of charge weights and completely eliminated the delays."
I've tried rl26 and N570, which are spherical, and large rifle and large rifle magnum primers also. All with the same result
Shane Lindsey
Well-Known Member
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- Jul 13, 2010
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Did you adjust seating depth from the factory load?
In one particular 308 I have, I found that factory shot descent and my handloads not so much, until I found the seating depth sweet spot.
In one particular 308 I have, I found that factory shot descent and my handloads not so much, until I found the seating depth sweet spot.
I have done seating depth tests on the handloads
What bullet are you trying to reload for same as the factory ammo? If so I would check seating depth of it with a comparator. Then maybe chronograph the factory load, work up a latter that gives you the same speed as the factory ammo and you should be there. You could try h1000 and retumbo, rl33 too.
Mikecr
Well-Known Member
Did you do a lot of case trimming?
misterc01
Well-Known Member
Not sure if it might help. but I tumble before sizing fired brass, then size, check length, trim if needed, then run everything through an ultrasonic cleaner to ensure I get everything off. I also have a checklist I follow each time (modifying as I learn more) so I make sure what I am doing results in consistent reloading.
I've tried the 225 eldm and the 215 Berger. I'm wanting to get over factory speed if possible
I just trimmed for the first time after the 3rd firing and haven't shot any of them yet
I decap and wet tumble with stainless pins. Then size, check if I need to trim, and then tumble again with corn cob media.
bullet man
Well-Known Member
Do you crimp your loads, a good crimp will help with a more consistent powder burn. The only other time I've had a problem was with a cz scorpian the chamber is a little generous due to it originally being a machine gun. So I have to load my rounds to a minimum of plus p so the round will seal the chamber. If not they really get sooted up bad. I use a lee factory crimp die on all my rounds and it will tighten up groups as well.
