I drank the coax koolaid

Full disclosure, I can not criticize any press as I only tried one. My comments where about the name use of coax and the satisfaction I have it's the RC
 
Sorry guys I posted again about the coax cause didn't think this post went through, so ignore that one. I think the coax is dependent on many things like I said before, like how true is their rings especially after you loosen and tighten them, could the base be slightly tilted, I did call Forster and they told me to loosen screws on ram, run press and tighten, also loosen detent ball which holds rings, I took it right out, still no consistency, idk but I think a ram running through one hole into another would be way easier to line up at the factory, I think once the ring hits the top and theirs pressure on base of shell that it doesn't move that easily, either way, primers are hard to get, so is powder so I want to make good rounds with what I have and coax isn't cutting it, for the price I shouldn't have to modify it. The 14 press shootout shows the RC being much better than the coax, if you look up best press for precision reloading the RC is number one in most, in fact the coax is number one in none, my choices after the coax were the mec and the rebel, I went with the rebel cause 199 at Scheels, honestly probably could have stuck with Jr but after having 3 presses at once it was nice having them set up for different processes.
 
I agree that the dies are probably the most important piece, after I got my Redding body die and used it with the lee collet die I immediately made better ammo, and I only had lee challenger press at that point, my 6.5 creeds we're coming out with .001 or less runout, I did use the o ring on shell holder and under die ring and I polished top of ram and shell holder, press is loose as a goose.
 
But my really shiny brass makes my bullets go faster and brass line up better in my dies. That's the real secret. Just kidding. Most of the equipment if well maintained is designed to give a good product, but there can always be the occasional lemon.
Oh, by the way, soak your brass in clean lemon juice. For about 15 to 30 min., rinse, dry, tumble and look at how really shiny it does get. I had to figure out something to do with all of my extra lemons. But this is probably for a different thread.😁
 
I think most people who post good reviews for the coax are not measuring runout,
So now because I prefer the coax, I'm incompetent? lol Those that follow my content on youtube and instagram might disagree with you.

I have lower runout with my Co-Ax than any other press I've tested to date.

... and co-ax isn't a "marketing ploy." It's simply the truth. Co-Ax = 2 axis, and the die floats front to back, and the shell holders float left and right. Seems pretty straight forward to me.

The amount of misinformation in this thread is unreal.



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So now because I prefer the coax, I'm incompetent? lol Those that follow my content on youtube and instagram might disagree with you.

I have lower runout with my Co-Ax than any other press I've tested to date.

... and co-ax isn't a "marketing ploy." It's simply the truth. Co-Ax = 2 axis, and the die floats front to back, and the shell holders float left and right. Seems pretty straight forward to me.

The amount of misinformation in this thread is unreal.



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Co-Ax means same axis..., ONE axis....like co-ax cable....and all presses have to use the same axis for cartridge and die, meaning all are co-ax
And as I said before, I only criticized the name, not the actual press
 
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I did find a review that had the coax as number one press but they say that spot has been taken over the MEC marksman, they also rank the rebel as one of the best, but the Frankfurt m press is also on this list and mainly they like the coax cause it is compact, they say the mec is smoother and after extensive use it makes great ammo, my coax was probably a little off, maybe high demand and Forster trying to keep up. I also didn't like the way the coax FL sized because had to take out die and adjust ring were as on my o press I use an o ring under ring and can just turn it a little if I need more or less shoulder bump.
 
So now because I prefer the coax, I'm incompetent? lol
I bet you don't clean your 22LRs often enough either.......






I Love You Heart GIF by nobodies.
 
I fail to see the value in bashing people in this thread. People are relating their experiences, and that is great. A couple of jokes not directed at anyone can be funny. But bashing people and their posts really hurts the spirit of the forum, in my opinion.
Please don't bash others. I personally would like to hear about other people's beliefs and experiences. Not read trash talk. There's already enough hate out there and this old man is really tired of the hate.

Thanks, I appreciate it.
 
?? Well, I can't speak to the 650, but I've had a 550B setup for 22 years and it takes me less than 30 seconds to change calibers. Just get yourself a separate toolhead on a toolhead stand and setup your new dies on the head. Adjust them once and you're set. One of the reasons I got a 550 instead of a 650 is that caliber conversions cost less money, about 2/3rds the cost, and I don't want a case feeder. I handle and quickly inspect each piece of brass as it goes into the machine. It would be nice to have the 650/750 powder check die, but I setup a mirror that looks down into the case at station 2 of the 550. You need to buy the new caliber dies and a caliber conversion kit, then buy either the Deluxe quick change caliber kit that includes the powder measure, or at a minimum get a toolhead and powder die. I ended up with 4 toolheads setup on toolhead stands, with two powder measures. I have the Entirely Crimson quick change on the measures so I can swap them quickly (after draining the powder with a UniqueTek drain and change tool). I think the 650 change will be just as fast for you.

I wish that you lived closer, I could use the help. The company jet is down, otherwise I would fly you out for a visit:);)!! I find the 650 to be intimidating to say the least; and....I am pretty savvy when it comes to machinery and tools. I did try to get a conversion kit, however it was a "back order" only product, I ought to take another look for availability. I now shoot more 10mm then .45s and it would be great to change it over. From what I remember the 550 is a bit less complicated than the 650XL. I'm pretty sure the index/feed head in the brass feed has to be changed out as well. When this 650XL is running good it will pump out the .45s, but....when it's not it can pump out a lot of junk equally as fast. Thank you for the reply.
 
The problem I had with the coax is when I used it to seat a bullet in a fresh Lapua case I got .005 runout, used the same Forster seater on lee and got .001 runout, both cases sized with same FL Forster die on lee, cases showed very little runout, almost perfect, seeing how good the coax works for other people makes me think I got a bum unit, oh how I hated watching that gauge move after round being made in coax and the new Lapua brass was never much more than .001 runout in lee, other brass yes but not the Lapua, so I'm guessing something had to be wrong if I was getting such bad runout after seating, really wrong. After getting the old rcbs junior and seeing how well it sized old brass compared to Lee I just thought how much better am I gonna get, do I really need this coax on top of it's issues and I was fully expecting the Jr to be a piece of crap, bringing it home I was thinking about making couple bucks selling it to a member at my club but now it's a keeper. I'm finding any decent press will make straight ammo if your cases are are straight, take a case with .0015 runout at neck and the press or die will not bring overall runout to anywhere close to .001, but I also feel that bad dies and press can multiply runout.
 
Sinclair makes excellent stainless lock rings that work well with the coax also.
I've been using my coax for about 10 yrs now and it sits next to a Redding BB2. Ive compared the ammo produced by both using same dies and components and don't see a difference. One thing that might be interesting to try is to use centers similar to a lathe to see how rams and die holes line up. Granted, there is some play in shell holders and plates that allow movement.
I used a Rockchucker for 30 years which I passed on to my son when he wanted to start handloading and its as tight as the day I bought it. It still loads very accurate ammo.
Ah! how we love are Rockchucker's
 
I own a Mec Marksman and it gives me less than .001 concentricity on my reloads every time if you let the floating shell holder do it's job. No BS
 
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