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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
I can't believe this
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<blockquote data-quote="Brent" data-source="post: 15237" data-attributes="member: 99"><p><strong>Re: I can\'t believe this</strong></p><p></p><p>Ian,</p><p></p><p> The very scope that slipped in the rings, I took it off at some point later after I torqued the hell out if it because it slipped. The tube was like you say slightly smaller having been squeezed under the rings. No affect to the scope, but you could feel at the edges of where the rings were that it was crushed some.</p><p></p><p>That was taken into consideration when I used the Ruger rings and later the Burris insert rings on my Ruger 416wby with the 3.5-10 Leopold. I tightened tham just as tight on the Ruger rings. When I removed it to use the Burris set for more elevation offset, there was absolutly no marks or crushing at all. I figured it would. I was expecting it might try to move in the rings so it was tightend hard as well. Later I went from 30 moa inserts to 40 moa and noticed when I had the scope off the Burris rings had not squeezed the tube either. I don't know if this is indicitive of how thick the tubes are comparing Leopold and Nikon, just my experience. </p><p></p><p>I agree that the clamping force is due to bolt stretch not the friction between the threads and the head. If you over stretch them or stretch them too many times (3 times max IMHO) they will loose their tension. Many bolts actually create more clamping force when stretched to the same length the second time than they do the first. On the third it just about equals the first and goes on a downward trend steeply on or after the fourth retorque. This is true for a pistons connecting rod bolts I know for sure.</p><p></p><p>As scientific or methodical as I usally am about these type things, I still prefer and trust my "feel" for the torque on most bolts or screws. I do however use a torque wrench for rods, mains, head bolts and a few other things of extra critical natures. <img src="http://images/icons/smile.gif" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Brent, post: 15237, member: 99"] [b]Re: I can\'t believe this[/b] Ian, The very scope that slipped in the rings, I took it off at some point later after I torqued the hell out if it because it slipped. The tube was like you say slightly smaller having been squeezed under the rings. No affect to the scope, but you could feel at the edges of where the rings were that it was crushed some. That was taken into consideration when I used the Ruger rings and later the Burris insert rings on my Ruger 416wby with the 3.5-10 Leopold. I tightened tham just as tight on the Ruger rings. When I removed it to use the Burris set for more elevation offset, there was absolutly no marks or crushing at all. I figured it would. I was expecting it might try to move in the rings so it was tightend hard as well. Later I went from 30 moa inserts to 40 moa and noticed when I had the scope off the Burris rings had not squeezed the tube either. I don't know if this is indicitive of how thick the tubes are comparing Leopold and Nikon, just my experience. I agree that the clamping force is due to bolt stretch not the friction between the threads and the head. If you over stretch them or stretch them too many times (3 times max IMHO) they will loose their tension. Many bolts actually create more clamping force when stretched to the same length the second time than they do the first. On the third it just about equals the first and goes on a downward trend steeply on or after the fourth retorque. This is true for a pistons connecting rod bolts I know for sure. As scientific or methodical as I usally am about these type things, I still prefer and trust my "feel" for the torque on most bolts or screws. I do however use a torque wrench for rods, mains, head bolts and a few other things of extra critical natures. [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img] [/QUOTE]
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