How tight should action screws be while bedding sets up?

[Moman]

I am getting ready to do an action bed on a Remington 700 in a McMillan stock. One thing I haven't really been able to figure out is how much torque should I put on the action screws while the bedding is setting up? Using Devcon and McMillan calls for 40-45 in Lb when reassembled.

 

[pig ranch deadeye]

You need to torque it JUST THE RIGHT AMOUNT!

 

[Dosh]

We use the rubber strips used around your arm when the nurse draws blood. I just politely ask for them. They put just the right tension on, I also use headless long action screws to center.

 

[Deleted member 102985]

I also use the headless studs with a couple of velcro straps to put just a bit of pressure to keep it seated. I've bedded 15-20 guns works great so far.

 

[DJ Fergus]

Two big wire tie straps will work. Headless bolts work good to guide it into the stock holes.

 

[243winxb]

Almost none. The action needs to sit in the stock at the correct location to start. I put something in the barrel channel to keep the barrel centered. This also sets how high or low the action sits in the stock. Tape around the barrel in the non bedding area or a thin card in the barrel channel.

Make reference marks with tape on the action, so you know when action is in the correct position.

 

[J E Custom]

I don't recommend using the action screws at all . Use headless screws with heat shrink to line the action up properly, and use spring clamps to hold the action in place while the bedding is curing. action screws can add a lot of force to the action with very little torque.

https://www.lowes.com/search?searchTerm=metal%20spring%20clamps

Spring clamps don't load the action unevenly like the action screws can (they can also flex the action a few thousandths) so for a stress free bedding use the clamps. At least while installing the surgical tubing so the bedding is not disturbed.

J E CUSTOM

 

[jdyoung]

I place a white pencil line on the action where the stock meets the front and rear receiver ring. This give me an indication when the barreled action is properly seated in the stock so I don't over tighten.
You should ALWAYS put bedding studs/headless screws in the holes when glass bedding. Especially the front on a Rem 700 type. On a Rem 700 the front screw hole is open into the internal locking lug area of the action and that epoxy will end up in there for sure.
It is important to check that the holes for the action screws are centered in the stock then I always place wraps of tape around the barrel about 1/2" back from the forend tip. Use just enough tape wraps to take up the distance the barrel is floated, no more. This will assure the barreled action is centered in the stock.
When bedding, I always use the bottom metal and I have modified the bedding studs by threading about 3/8" of the portion that sticks through the stock /bottom metal so I can slip a piece aluminum tubbing over the protruding threaded end followed by a nut so I can snug the barreled action into the stock. I don't over tighten these, stop when the outside of the stock meets the white line on the action.
Shrink tubbing is placed over those threaded ends so no epoxy gets into the thread. Shrink tubbing is removed of course after slipping the studs through the stock bottom metal.

 

[Alibiiv]

Almost none. The action needs to sit in the stock at the correct location to start. I put something in the barrel channel to keep the barrel centered. This also sets how high or low the action sits in the stock. Tape around the barrel in the non bedding area or a thin card in the barrel channel.

Make reference marks with tape on the action, so you know when action is in the correct position.

I am getting ready to do an action bed on a Remington 700 in a McMillan stock. One thing I haven't really been able to figure out is how much torque should I put on the action screws while the bedding is setting up? Using Devcon and McMillan calls for 40-45 in Lb when reassembled.

I use two layers (applied separately) of .010 thousandths pipe tape that I get from Brownells, starting 4 inches in front of the recoil lug, does a really neat job (.020) where the steel meets the wood/fiberglass seam. To answer the OP I use a minimal amount of torque with the regular bedding screws, again from Brownells. The screws come in a kit with parts that I use to pillar bed the action as well; nylon bushings and stainless washers. Usually I will pillar bed the action first, "then" pillar bed second. By doing the pillars first I can remove all the material around the recoil lug and around the pillars back to the magazine well where I leave 1/16th of an inch of wood (in your case fiberglass) between the action channel and the magazine well. By doing the pillars first, and then removing the material around the front pillar when I do bed the action is sitting on the pillars and I can get the fiberglass/divcon round the pillars as well as make a bed for the action to sit into. Again minimal torque on the bedding screws (finger tight), like the idea of rubber tubing or velcro around the action. Good luck with your bedding job, experience does make for a better job. Right now I have a couple of rifles I am doing over from when I first started bedding them.

www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/stock-work-finishing/stock-bedding-accessories/bedding-tape/010-pipe-wrap-tape-prod19481.aspx

 

[Moman]

Thanks everyone for the replies. Ive been using open ended studs from that Power Custom glass bedding kit, along with their nylon or plastic bushings. I've also had decent success with wrapping a little tape on the studs to help center the screws. Ive only done 3-4 so far and it is getting better. I have had one or two end up with some stress on the action but have been able to grind or sand out some of the bedding and try again. The one thing that I just can't get a handle on is how much to tighten the nuts on those studs. Lots of good ideas from you guys on this so I'll come up with a new plan and try again.

 

[1000yrd plate pounder]

first is to sand/grind barrel chanel and action area to make sure barrel and action dont rock back and forth electrical tape on barrel about an inch back from forend to make sure barrel is centered i use 3 to 4 inch long bolts with heads cut off wrapping electrical tape around threads i start about three threads down and wrap till semi snug in action thru holes use kiwi clear shoe polish on action and screws mix bedding install action and wrap three wraps of electrical tape snug around stock and action where scope bases are attached to action

 

[Captain1967]

I am getting ready to do an action bed on a Remington 700 in a McMillan stock. One thing I haven't really been able to figure out is how much torque should I put on the action screws while the bedding is setting up? Using Devcon and McMillan calls for 40-45 in Lb when reassembled.

Surgical tubing and action screws with release agent to center

 

[Mram10us]

Rear Action screw lightly torqued, front just in place, tape around barrel near end of forend for centering. Wrap 3 or 4 layers of electrical tape over chamber section and stock for the very little shrinkage while drying. Just me

 

[Dr. Vette]

Thanks everyone for the replies. Ive been using open ended studs from that Power Custom glass bedding kit, along with their nylon or plastic bushings. I've also had decent success with wrapping a little tape on the studs to help center the screws. Ive only done 3-4 so far and it is getting better. I have had one or two end up with some stress on the action but have been able to grind or sand out some of the bedding and try again. The one thing that I just can't get a handle on is how much to tighten the nuts on those studs.

Zero.

Don't use nuts.
ANY torque will stress the action.

Personally I don't use tubing, clamps or anything to "hold" the action. Dozens done, and zero problems. Heck, I can (carefully) flip the rifle over to remove bedding material from inside the stock and have no problems. Most bedding materials are sticky enough they will hold the action with no problem.