How quick can a .300 RUM burn a barrel out?

Robinhood493

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Ok guys, I have a stock Remington .300 RUM LSS. How quick can I burn a barrel out? I have about 500 rounds down the tube loaded hot, and the accuracy seems to be falling off and more fliers appearing. It was about 3/8"-1/2" MOA all the way up til about 400 rounds, and now it moved to about 1"- 1 1/2" MOA. It is clean, and I have used the same cleaning routine since new with Boretech eliminator and CU+2. Can my barrel starting to be shot out already? I hear a good average on the .300 RUM is about 1000 rounds.
 

MTBULLET

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my experience;
bbl 1 factory rem. 272 rounds
bbl 2 douglas 465 rounds
bbl 3 pac-nor 600-or so

BBL 4 300 WIN MAG !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
 

Varmint Hunter

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Just a thought but a gunsmith at Weatherby told me once that 3/4's of the rifles that are returned for accuracy problems were badly fouled. He claimed that despite the owners contention that the barrel was cleaned regularly, the barrels were only in need of a through cleaning. Without a borescope it's not always easy to determine what the barrel condition is in after 500 hot loads in a 300 RUM.

Just a thought
 

Robinhood493

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Just a thought but a gunsmith at Weatherby told me once that 3/4's of the rifles that are returned for accuracy problems were badly fouled. He claimed that despite the owners contention that the barrel was cleaned regularly, the barrels were only in need of a through cleaning. Without a borescope it's not always easy to determine what the barrel condition is in after 500 hot loads in a 300 RUM.

Just a thought


Well maybe so, but from what I read and experienced, the Boretech Eliminator followed by CU+2 is one of the best cleaners out there. I tried the ammonia based ones, and did not remove any more copper than the boretech does and they are alot more dangerous if left in too long. Someone chime in if they think that the boretech is not cleaning good enough. I used Hoppes benchrest copper cleaner at first, and it did not get any copper out of the barrel.
 

Trickymissfit

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if 28% amonia won't remove the copper after three or four minutes of soak, it's pretty much welded in place. The throats go fast because the vortex of the flame pathe is right at the tip of the neck. A 40 degree shoulder would do wonders in barrel life, but pushing the shoulder back .075" with a 40 degree shoulder ought to give you a solid thousand rounds of bore life, if not even more. I doubt you'll see 50fps loss in velocity as the case is already in an overbore condition.

gary
 

elkaholic

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if 28% amonia won't remove the copper after three or four minutes of soak, it's pretty much welded in place. The throats go fast because the vortex of the flame pathe is right at the tip of the neck. A 40 degree shoulder would do wonders in barrel life, but pushing the shoulder back .075" with a 40 degree shoulder ought to give you a solid thousand rounds of bore life, if not even more. I doubt you'll see 50fps loss in velocity as the case is already in an overbore condition.

gary

Agree with tricky. That is why I design my cartridges with a 40 degree shoulder and a neck with a MINIMUM length as long as the caliber. Here is a potential problem that is often overlooked and will make your accuracy go south. Even with otherwise good cleaning, the neck/throat junction can sometimes build up a carbon ring. Try soaking a patch in Kroil and stuffing it in the throat for two or three days. Pull the patch out and rotate a copper cleaning brush soaked in kroil and then clean up as usual. Check the patch and see what you came up with? I usually only trim my cases .005" short to help eliminate this problem. With 500 rounds, this COULD be the problem......Rich
 

Lefty7mmstw

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I've got 500+ rounds on a lh m700 bdl 300 rum I bought used. It looks like new inside and will likely go another 1000 shots or more before I need to think about touching it. I run a 180 hornady at 3300 fps with rl25 lit by a 215 in rem brass. I clean every 20-40 shots and go to a visual clean, not just that patches are clean since they lie if your solvent can't pick any more crap up. Shoot in cold weather, don't heat her up, and shoot a few percent back charge weight wise, and you'll more than double bore life if you actually clean your rig.
 

Trickymissfit

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Agree with tricky. That is why I design my cartridges with a 40 degree shoulder and a neck with a MINIMUM length as long as the caliber. Here is a potential problem that is often overlooked and will make your accuracy go south. Even with otherwise good cleaning, the neck/throat junction can sometimes build up a carbon ring. Try soaking a patch in Kroil and stuffing it in the throat for two or three days. Pull the patch out and rotate a copper cleaning brush soaked in kroil and then clean up as usual. Check the patch and see what you came up with? I usually only trim my cases .005" short to help eliminate this problem. With 500 rounds, this COULD be the problem......Rich


last night I drew that case up to confirm my post, and was stunned! The vortex of the flame path is right at the end of the case lip, but the actual turbulance point is probably .050" past that, and right inside the throat. Had the neck length been .050" longer, it would have helped a little bit, but the real issue is the combination of shoulder angle a minimum neck length. A 35 degree shoulder would have really helped. Thus confirming my thoughts about shortening the shoulder length .075", and go with a much steeper shoulder angle while keeping the overall length the same
gary
 

Tumbleweed

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I have around 1300 rounds through my 27" lilja barrel which has been a 300RUM since about the 700 round count. It was a 300Wby from 0-700. It's always been loaded pretty warm because that's where I found the best accuracy. I recently thought my barrel may have took a big turn south but that issue ended up being brass. It shoots 215 hybrids inside .5moa at 100 yards and can typically get that at 1000+ in a no wind condition. I clean it like a fool and have never let it get scorching hot, I think that has made the difference.
 

elkaholic

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I have around 1300 rounds through my 27" lilja barrel which has been a 300RUM since about the 700 round count. It was a 300Wby from 0-700. It's always been loaded pretty warm because that's where I found the best accuracy. I recently thought my barrel may have took a big turn south but that issue ended up being brass. It shoots 215 hybrids inside .5moa at 100 yards and can typically get that at 1000+ in a no wind condition. I clean it like a fool and have never let it get scorching hot, I think that has made the difference.

Is your barrel a 3 groover? I have found that the 3 groove Liljas last longer with the wider lands.......Rich
 

Robinhood493

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I have around 1300 rounds through my 27" lilja barrel which has been a 300RUM since about the 700 round count. It was a 300Wby from 0-700. It's always been loaded pretty warm because that's where I found the best accuracy. I recently thought my barrel may have took a big turn south but that issue ended up being brass. It shoots 215 hybrids inside .5moa at 100 yards and can typically get that at 1000+ in a no wind condition. I clean it like a fool and have never let it get scorching hot, I think that has made the difference.

What did you find with your brass that made them an issue?
 

Tumbleweed

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What did you find with your brass that made them an issue?

It was more of an issue with brass prep. I was using NC brass at the time and it's very good, consistent brass but I found that it is too soft for my liking. I was loading things with a warm charge and it loosened up the primer pocket after about 3 firings. Remington brass would have stayed tight with the same charge. So I used a drive in style primer pocket resizer that created a bunch of run out. Hammer and punch on brass, not a good idea. I do not have the tool to check run out so it took me a little while to figure out what was going on. I recently switched back to Rem brass. I will keep shooting 'till she gives up. Then it will be a big .338 of some sort:D
 
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