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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
How not to install a muzzle brake
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<blockquote data-quote="J E Custom" data-source="post: 1054846" data-attributes="member: 2736"><p>With the trend to do it your self, I see lots of poor installations. I am a do it your self person and encourage the process, but as Clint Eastwood would say "A man has to know his limitations". </p><p></p><p>I recently talked to a guy that had a muzzle brake installed by a friend and it was not doing well.</p><p></p><p>When I looked at it I knew something was wrong because the bore hole was .369 and the rifle was a .308 caliber. it should be around .338 to .343.</p><p></p><p>So I figured it was bored larger to clear the bullet. IT was badly misaligned with the bore. Another clue was the Loctite that was holding it on.</p><p></p><p>After a lot of effort to get it off and cleaning it up here is what I found.=</p><p></p><p>The barrel tenon was threaded using a die nut, and grossly under sized. </p><p></p><p>The threads in the brake were poor and .041 off center of the rifle bore from end to end.</p><p></p><p>The outside of the brake took over .030 to clean up to be in alignment with the threads.</p><p></p><p>The bore hole had to be opened to .408 just to be concentric.</p><p></p><p>I did this exercise to find out why the brake was not working/performing and had no intention of Re using it.The accuracy was poor and I did not find anything that was correct about the installation and building of this brake.</p><p></p><p>Obviously, the brake cannot be used, and another brake will be installed after the barrel is </p><p>cut back and re threaded. There wasn't a large enough thread on the barrel tenon to simply down size and save barrel length, so it had to be shortened and re threaded. I guess the many errors canceled some of the problems out (Lucky) and prevented a major problem.</p><p></p><p>In order to function properly, a brake, flash hider or a suppressor has to be installed correctly</p><p>or problems will present themselves.</p><p></p><p>There are some things that can be done by do it your self people, and some that cant/shouldn't</p><p>be attempted and are best left to a competent Gun Smith. </p><p></p><p>Another example is the clamp on brakes, A range rod should be used that verifies the alignment and the bore hole should be between .020 and .025 if it is any larger it will not perform as well as it should. I have seen many clamp on brakes with a much larger bore hole just to prevent bullet strikes.</p><p></p><p>Gun smiths Make lots of money "FIXING" Problems that should not have been. so have it done right the first time and save money and time.</p><p></p><p>Just a comment to hopefully keep people out of trouble.</p><p></p><p>J E CUSTOM</p><p></p><p>PS:This is not the place to try and save money and in the end will probably cost a lot more to fix</p><p>if you are lucky.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="J E Custom, post: 1054846, member: 2736"] With the trend to do it your self, I see lots of poor installations. I am a do it your self person and encourage the process, but as Clint Eastwood would say "A man has to know his limitations". I recently talked to a guy that had a muzzle brake installed by a friend and it was not doing well. When I looked at it I knew something was wrong because the bore hole was .369 and the rifle was a .308 caliber. it should be around .338 to .343. So I figured it was bored larger to clear the bullet. IT was badly misaligned with the bore. Another clue was the Loctite that was holding it on. After a lot of effort to get it off and cleaning it up here is what I found.= The barrel tenon was threaded using a die nut, and grossly under sized. The threads in the brake were poor and .041 off center of the rifle bore from end to end. The outside of the brake took over .030 to clean up to be in alignment with the threads. The bore hole had to be opened to .408 just to be concentric. I did this exercise to find out why the brake was not working/performing and had no intention of Re using it.The accuracy was poor and I did not find anything that was correct about the installation and building of this brake. Obviously, the brake cannot be used, and another brake will be installed after the barrel is cut back and re threaded. There wasn't a large enough thread on the barrel tenon to simply down size and save barrel length, so it had to be shortened and re threaded. I guess the many errors canceled some of the problems out (Lucky) and prevented a major problem. In order to function properly, a brake, flash hider or a suppressor has to be installed correctly or problems will present themselves. There are some things that can be done by do it your self people, and some that cant/shouldn't be attempted and are best left to a competent Gun Smith. Another example is the clamp on brakes, A range rod should be used that verifies the alignment and the bore hole should be between .020 and .025 if it is any larger it will not perform as well as it should. I have seen many clamp on brakes with a much larger bore hole just to prevent bullet strikes. Gun smiths Make lots of money "FIXING" Problems that should not have been. so have it done right the first time and save money and time. Just a comment to hopefully keep people out of trouble. J E CUSTOM PS:This is not the place to try and save money and in the end will probably cost a lot more to fix if you are lucky. [/QUOTE]
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How not to install a muzzle brake
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