How light is to light

[snox801]

Ok guys I have heavies and I have light stuff. But as always questions.
So what what do you guys consider for distance? Take into account cartridge and what not can change but a ultra light in any caliber won't be a 1500 yard rifle.
For instance
6 lbs total weight ready to hunt. 600 yard max?
8lbs 1000 yards?
I had my 6.5 creed on the extreme light side and it was super hard to shoot even at 4-500 yards. So I added a heavier stock and some other stuff I wanted to upgrade like a better scope. Now I'm around 6.5lbs ready to hunt. That is my 6.5 creed so I limit myself to 600 yards on game as to not run out of energy. Now I'm having a ultra light 30sm built in case I want to pack for elk. I thought about the 6.5 but what if I have a great shot at 600-800 on a amazing elk and can't get closer. I want a bit more thump.
What's everyone's preference.

 

[Country Bumpkin]

My 7RM is just under 9, with optics, 3 rnds in the box, 5 spares and an Allen set in the stock pack, with a sling. It's the weight I was targeting (just over 8 with optics only) and we nailed it. I'm willing to carry it all day elk/mulie hunting and I can shoot it.

I'm not the beat shot and I don't have a lot of time to get better, so 600 is max for me, it does that with ease.

My buddy has a lighter 7RM and I have to be more diligent shooting his but it's still a scalpel.

 

[HuntnPack]

I've found I shoot a vertical grip stock better than a sporter style when in a rested position.
also a weight in the 7# to 8# range.

I currently have a 6.5 PRC Element that weighs in at 7.33# & also getting a 300 PRC Element. That'll weigh 7.85#
Both rifles have decent contour barrels that are .700 at muzzle, stiff carbon stock,
Integral 20 moa rail, NF optics, Seekins scope mounts, bipod rail, ATC brake, nice recoil pad.
Suppressor's coming for ea.
Gives me the option to run them with just the thread protector on for a shorter version, or braked, or suppressed.
Makes for a decent weight/ durable rifle
Combination for the type hunting I enjoy.

The idea is to configure them closely, thinking I will comfortably move from the 6.5 to the 300
For larger game and/or longer distance.
The 6.5 will get the bulk of the trigger time, I'll pace myself with the 300

 

[snox801]

That's my plan also I went to a manners eh5 thumbhole on my 6.5 to add a bit of weight and I am better at shooting forehand with the grip and also doesn't seem to change anything when shooting off bench or prone. So if I jump something while walking it works. That why I like the 2.5-16 plus power scopes. I also am setting up the 30sm to match the creed so they are as close as possible.

 

[HARPERC]

It seems like most of my stuff has come out 9lbs, and have done OK to 800 yards. Whats tough to say is how much weight makes a difference, as I added about 2 lbs worth of scope. Optic or weight???? Much more solid in the same range.

 

[snox801]

That's what I'm trying to boil down to. I'm not sure where that magic number is. My thought is I build it as light as possible and I can add stuff to make it heavier. Like my cameras tripods and what not.
Hope maybe 8lbs with all my goodies will be perfect.

 

[sp6x6]

Russo on here bit back posted 3 shot 1''+ 800 yrd, 4''+ 1571y 6.5 PRC that was 6 1/2 bare gun if I recall,shows what can be done. If shot few 1 1/2 at 400, 6'' 1000.7-2 oz 338NM,offmy bipod. That rifle dressed w/bipod sling all 9 3/4

 

[B-LOT Banga]

I had my 6.5 creed on the extreme light side and it was super hard to shoot even at 4-500 yards. So I added a heavier stock and some

I believe you already know from experience that if a light 6.5 creed is super hard to shoot then a 30 caliber magnum would be harder. I too shoot better with a heavier rifle and that's why I only have 1 titanium/carbon rig. I like to shoot off a bipod but sometimes the situation doesn't allow it and find my heavier guns around 8.5#-9# scoped does fine in most situations. A heavier rifle would be even better as I have my old model 70 with a nightforce with steel bases is almost a guaranteed kill, steady as a rock from any position except standing and my arms get numb from just carrying it lol.

 

[HARPERC]

....That's what I'm trying to boil down to. I'm not sure where that magic number is. My thought is I build it as light as possible and I can add stuff to make it heavier. Like my cameras tripods and what not.Hope maybe 8lbs with all my goodies will be perfect.......

Making them light is a challenge, add ons to make them heavy very easy! Go for light, and add when needed???

 

[Ckleeves]

JMO but I like a weight around 9-10 lbs all up. Im talking rifle, rings, scope, bipod, sling, everything. I struggle past about 800 yards with rifles lighter then about 9 lbs and I don't like to carry anything over about 10.5

I would still try and build light, it always seems like you end up about 1lb heavier then you think your going to even if you think you added up every 2 ounce piece. Gaining weight is easy!

 

[Greyfox]

I think optimum rifle weight is dependent on a combination of the individuals shooter skill, maximum hunting range, hunting environment/conditions, and the rifle/cartridge. At the bench/range in "controlled conditions" I can shoot my lighter rifles quite well out to ranged beyond 600 yards. Atthis distance or less in hunting conditions, I'm Ok 8sing a lighter rifle. For hunting shots further out, particularly with variations in conditions(temperature, rifle support, available time to shot, etc), small changes can account for large differences and I find that my accuracy is materially better with the added stability of a heavier rifle.....generally 10.5# or more with my 6.5x284 and 300WM LRH Rifles. I will admit the majority of my hunting shots have been under 600 yards, but in those instances over the years where I have taken some really good animals beyond this range, I was glad to have the added weight....and the few extra pounds of weight was appreciated.

 

[Backcountry sports]

My 7RM is just under 9, with optics, 3 rnds in the box, 5 spares and an Allen set in the stock pack, with a sling. It's the weight I was targeting (just over 8 with optics only) and we nailed it. I'm willing to carry it all day elk/mulie hunting and I can shoot it.

I'm not the beat shot and I don't have a lot of time to get better, so 600 is max for me, it does that with ease.

My buddy has a lighter 7RM and I have to be more diligent shooting his but it's still a scalpel.

My cooper 92 with optics right at 7lbs easy to get on target short or long range

 

[Deleted member 107796]

I believe it's not the rifle weight but how it's secured on the rest to minimize movement, to make any shot. I don't use the rifle's weight to mitigate recoil, I use the recoil pad. I am amazed at how many nice older rifles, like a Browning X bolt medallion as well as some as new as the Tikka T3 Lite, have the most god awful pads. Get a Limbsaver and your view of rifle weight will change, IMO.

 

[Bingoc]

As one can see this is personal preference and depends on many needs and experience. Most of my rifles, both magnum and non magnum, are for hunting and come in at about nine pounds and are not set up for long or short distance. They are all set up about the same. If I am in rugged terrain they are accurate to 300 yards w/o any adjustment. If I am in open terrain and need to take a shot, I have the time to use the range finder and dial up to 500 yards. What I have found over the years is that for the first few trips everything that you have on is foreign and heavy and cumbersome unless you have spent a lot of time scouting with your hunting gear or are a lumberjack. By the time the fall and winter are over you are used to all of this extra stuff and get along quite well with it.