How do YOU fire form?

comen

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Joined
Aug 13, 2012
Messages
96
Location
Eureka, Mt
I have a 25-06AI build in the works that I will hopefully have finished by deer season. I'm in the process of gathering up all the reloading components and I got to thinking....why would I waste the "good" primers and powder heck even cheap bullets ain't cheap anymore on fire forming?

My chamber will be set up properly where I can shoot factory 25-06 ammo out of it. But I hear that makes short cases that aint gonna grow much especially in an AI. And factory ammo ain't cheap or easy to find. Also this is going to be a 1:7.5tw so I don't know how well a 100gr sst or corelok would hold together to hunt with while fire forming. Also not planning on using Remington or hornady brass. I have 150pcs of lapua 30-06 so far.

I've used the c.o.w. method before but in a 223ai and that was when primer bricks were $35 and that is a much smaller case.

Barrel life is of concern. But I'd rather do something right the first time so if that means fire forming with a bullet then so be it.

Can I load a medium charge of superformance which a have a lot of and a cheapo bullet and a cheapo primer and start there? Would using a cheap primer for fire forming change my primer pockets?

This isn't a 25-06AI specific question. How do yall fire form your improved cases?
I use the COW method, although I prefer coarse cornmeal, or grits for filler. For powder I use Unigue and vary the charge by case capacity. to form 240 Gibbs and 6.5 280AI I use 14 grains. I fill the case to the top with filler, and finger press a dental wax plug (.035"0 cutting it in Place with the mouth of the case. For cases that require a very large bore increase, my Gunsmith builds a fireforming chamber from drill steel using the chambering reamer, and turns the OD into a 12 Guage shotgun case that drops into a 3" chamber. I do my .411-284 wildcat this way with the COW method and blow out the neck to full diameter in one shot with no barrel wear at all. I form my Gibbs using 270 win cases necked down to fit the chamber, and trim after fireforming.
 

Harry Knutz

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Joined
Jun 12, 2022
Messages
154
Location
Southern Utah
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe you could do all of this with a 25-06ai bushing die and just buy the appropriate bushings to step down a couple times...

I did not mention neck turning in my example bc I was not changing calibers. Definitely necessary in this case going from .308 to .257
Yes you can, More than one way to skin a cat!

To the OP, I forgot to mention, Tumbling brass in stainless pins actually work hardens the necks, This is not going to be a problem for your blasting ammo for your AR, But it needs to be annealed for your match ammo for sure, You will feel the difference when you size brass after it has been tumbled in pins. You mentioned that you were doing this. If you are one of those people that tumbles for each loading, (I do not) then you are definitely going to have brittle necks. I just started using Peterson 7.62x54R brass because the Winchester brass (S&B) only made it 3 firings, I'm on my 3rd firing with the Peterson brass so the jury is still out.

ETA:

Forgive me, This info is for another thread.
 
Last edited:

nksmfamjp

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Joined
Jan 5, 2004
Messages
2,307
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe you could do all of this with a 25-06ai bushing die and just buy the appropriate bushings to step down a couple times...

I did not mention neck turning in my example bc I was not changing calibers. Definitely necessary in this case going from .308 to .257
Even with the bushing pulled, it will neck about +0.010” to your ideal loaded round diameter. There is some necking in the Die before the bushing.
 

Lefty G-gear

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Joined
Sep 18, 2010
Messages
1,269
Location
Hyattville, WY
I have a 25-06AI build in the works that I will hopefully have finished by deer season. I'm in the process of gathering up all the reloading components and I got to thinking....why would I waste the "good" primers and powder heck even cheap bullets ain't cheap anymore on fire forming?

My chamber will be set up properly where I can shoot factory 25-06 ammo out of it. But I hear that makes short cases that aint gonna grow much especially in an AI. And factory ammo ain't cheap or easy to find. Also this is going to be a 1:7.5tw so I don't know how well a 100gr sst or corelok would hold together to hunt with while fire forming. Also not planning on using Remington or hornady brass. I have 150pcs of lapua 30-06 so far.

I've used the c.o.w. method before but in a 223ai and that was when primer bricks were $35 and that is a much smaller case.

Barrel life is of concern. But I'd rather do something right the first time so if that means fire forming with a bullet then so be it.

Can I load a medium charge of superformance which a have a lot of and a cheapo bullet and a cheapo primer and start there? Would using a cheap primer for fire forming change my primer pockets?

This isn't a 25-06AI specific question. How do yall fire form your improved cases?

Could it be? :D
(806) 329-3130 Call them to see if it is so.
 
Last edited:

DUCKMAN11

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Joined
Feb 17, 2022
Messages
368
Location
West of the Brazos
I use Unique or Herco, 10 grains for 308 size cases, 12 grains for 30-06 and larger, Put over top of powder cornmeal, malto-meal, cream of wheat or what ever you have on hand. Light a large candle and let it burn away from your loading area. When there is a large amount of melted wax, Pour it into a jar lid about 1/4" thick, When cooled push your loaded case neck into it by holding the lid upside down, This will effectively seal the powder and cornmeal into place. I have experimented with different amounts of powder, You will never get sharp corners of the shoulder, Neck junction or case Shoulder junction unless you actually use cases loaded with the proper amount of rifle powder and a seated bullet that is jammed into the lands. But many of the rounds I am using are barrel burners, SO I prefer not to send bullets down the barrel, And the way things are now, They are hard to get and expensive.
Soap works also instead of wax.
 

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