milo-2
Well-Known Member
There are guys who win PRS matches with fireforming loads, if you cannot make an accurate load to form with, sorry, but I question your practices.
How do YOU fire form Ackley Cartridges?
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dave300
Well-Known Member
This ^^^, Milo is correct. Each and every AI i did load development for ran incredibly accurate as I was fireforming. In fact, my 338AI is two years old and I have still not got enough brass fire formed for it cause its so darn accurate. Ive only hunted with it and dont totally feel the need to hurry through shooting the loads to fire form. I suspect I am leaving 75 ish fps on the table til I get enough pieces of brass formed to run it as designed.
floppy
New Member
The easiest way for me is to use inexpensive bullets in that caliber and a powder that has load data for the cartridge you're loading. Use the lowest recommended starting load and to the recommended oal and go to the range. Make sure you don't rush the process and overheat the barrel. Always anneal the brass after this process.
Not asked but I'll offer this information. Over the last year I put together a 257 Roberts Improved, 6mm-06 and a 6.5-06.
The 257 Roberts brass started as 7mm Mauser, the 6mm-06 used 25-06 and the 6.5-06 used 270 Win. As odd as it may sound I use One Shot spray lube on the cases then use a foam Q tip with a light coating of Lucas assembly lube on the inside and outside of the neck and then resize the brass. No damaged brass through hundreds of resizeings.
milo-2
Well-Known Member
Thanks Dave, it has been awhile! Not sure why the need to complicate this. Hydro formed brass is a pain, 2 firings and you still have the old shoulder staring at you. Hammer brass with a 95% load and call it a day.
Not AI, but I used to fire form my 257 weatherby brass from 7mm Rem Mag new brass.
I would size it in the 257 dies, then load it with a starting weight charge of powder and a cheap bullet. Bang. Now you have brass.
RAGGED EDGE
Well-Known Member
As said, in a properly chambered AI the easiest is fire factory ammo. Having said that, for more years than I care to remember Unique, cow and candle wax have served me well. .223AI, .280 AI, .25-06 AI.
Rem 700
Yes, that's why I said it is not for everybody. I saved some time and money by having my GS build the all my dies since I have all the reamers.
Jim’s Hunt
Well-Known Member
6.5-308 Improved 12gr of 231 Winchester, coffee to the shoulder and a wad of **** paper to hold it in. Brass must have a false shoulder to do this. I prefer 7-08 brass. I used Peterson brass an loaded it with 4831 and a 140gr ELDM and it gave me a formed brass with head separation. Fluke maybe but at a buck apiece for brass I'll use the COW method. Also COW saves some barrel life. 200 rounds of fire forming is a lot of life
xsn10s
Well-Known Member
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I think if you/ we have a cartridge that you/ we will shoot quite a bit, or use over a lifetime that hydraulic die would be worth the cost. I'm still testing my 260 AI but it might make the cut.
antelopedundee
Well-Known Member
First off if the chamber is cut properly, the bolt should close on a factory case with a bit of resistance. That eliminates any movement of the case when fired. I lightly jam the bullet and use a stiff load of a powder common to the load base load. Never had one not form properly. I have read of using a third to a half case of something like Bullseye or other fast pistol powder. Add a tuft of cotton to prevent spillage point straight up and fire away. Never tried that though.
