Homemade reloading benchtop material?

Clamp it to something flat, or if you don't have that, you can use a few straight boards and either clamp or "toe screw" the flat board to the underside of the cdx. It helps a TON to check your plywood when you buy it and make sure you pick flat sheets, some are not even close to flat, and some a nearly perfect. Look at both pieces before you glue and if they have any slight warp, place them opposite of each other when you put them together and they'll do a pretty good job on their own. As long as it's close, any minor warp will come out when you fasten it to your base.
 
Mine is two layers of 3/4" plywood glued together as well as screwed together with sheetrock screws.

I mounted my RCBS Rockchucker press as close to the corner (4x4 post as a leg) to help prevent benchtop flexing when using the press.
 
Im a builder,mines on frame and 4x4's,w/ 3/4 ply double it where you want.Press right on post
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I just built a wet bar at a home and you can get birch slabs premade at Lowes,cost more.
 
I'm using a desk that a boss gave me almost 20 years ago. It's pretty solid, whatever it is, and heavy as heck. I started out with it in N.C., took it to Washington, Virginia, Georgia and back to N.C. Got a few dings and scratches (me too!) but it's earned them all. Don't see it going anywhere. The top is an inch thick and I've loaded thousands of rounds on it with the RS5 in the pic.
I have a smaller architecture's desk setting directly beside it for my laptop and other research/reading material.
Desk.jpg
 
If you go the diy route 11/4" plywood subfloor makes a rock solid top. If you can find a old solid core door slab they make nice tops also.
 
I went over kill on mine....I bolted together 2- 15" wide 3 1/2" thick gluelam beams and mounted it to a 3x3 angle iron stand I built. I have never regretted spending the extra time it took and no matter what, nothing moves or flexes. I bought most the materials from a local salvage yard so total cost was pretty low. Not saying you have to go to this extreme, but don't cut any corners where your presses mount, a flexing press isn't fun!
 
I've had to expand my reloading bench a couple times . I now have a "U" shaped bench . two of these have kitchen counter top , which I really like . the newest piece I put 3/4" plywood with a layer of that cheap white board that is used in showers and other places . it's kind of like a porcelain coating on it . this stuff is not durable at all , I wish I would have bought another piece of counter top for the work top . this stuff is great for a nice smooth cover on your shelf though . I agree with the other guys , you want the bench built solid , no rocking , or wiggling . my original bench I used round pipe legs . I welded a plate on top and bottom . I mounted my press over one of these legs , and bolted through the metal plate . the metal plates on the floor are tapconed to the cement basement floor . I tapconed a 2x4 to the basement wall to support the rear of the counter tops . my last addition to the bench I took pictures as I built it . I'll post some of these up , they might give you some ideas .

my suggestions to you are ;
1) build it bigger than you think you'll need .
2) use something durable for the top . I really like the kitchen counter tops ,
3) make it solid .
 

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I agree with the glue and screw gang. Also, the KISS approach. Last house I used ash flooring and the groves drove me nuts catching powder. I used lam beams (the best) for my grinder for making knives really takes the harmonics well. I squirreled a solid door away that I was just reminded of as a few guys have said and I just made my bench with flooring cdx, flooring glue, screws and a impact screw driver. Topped with a piece of corian like countertop I saved from the dump. Glued and stainless screws countersunk for final touch...
 
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