High velocity factory 308 cartridge

Appreciate it everyone.

If one of these where what he saw, they won't do what he wants. He wants to shoot his rifle to 1k, and given the 20MOA rail and scope he has, the ballistics tables indicate his scope will bottom out at about 975. Of course he can use his reticle to get the extra MOA or so, but I think it's bugging him a little and a faster bullet will let him say his rifle can get to 1k.

He shoots Federal 175 SMK and it groups really well with his rifle. I'm going to buy him a box of Hornady Superformance Match 168 grain for him to try if and when I can find one.
What scope is he using? I have the Hi-Lux XTC1-4X34 Service Rifle Competition Rifle Scope on my M-1A for 1,000 yard service rifle matches, and that's without using a 20MOA base. Prior to that, I just used the iron sights. Same with the Garand.
 
What scope is he using? I have the Hi-Lux XTC1-4X34 Service Rifle Competition Rifle Scope on my M-1A for 1,000 yard service rifle matches, and that's without using a 20MOA base. Prior to that, I just used the iron sights. Same with the Garand.
Never mind, I read through everything and saw what scope he uses. He can shim the scope when he mounts it to better enable him to use the whole 110 minutes of travel, but I don't that should be necessary. Using M-118LR I have to come up about 50 minutes when going from 100 yards to 1,000 yards.
 
AMMO - FWIW, Hornady had a line of ammo, for 'standard' calibers, called LIGHT MAGNUMS. And with different powders they would boast velocities a good 200 to 300 over typical. There 308 Win had a 150-grain SP out at > 3,000. I used to use their 7mm-08 offering and once shot a 3-shot group into one ragged hole smaller than a dime. That was fantastic shooting ammo ... at least for me and my rig (Savage bolt, LH).

RAIL - Sounds like you need a 20-25 MOA rail.

RINGS - The Burris 'Zee' rings, using the offset inserts, would be an option to dial in further scope adjustment, if needed.
 
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Ive gotten more than a few blanks stares along the way.. ha. He's a very strong people person and technical things or working with his hands isnt his strength.. Understanding the math and visualizing differences between dialing clicks, moa, etc isn't his strong point. He's getting there though! He's a really good shot, too.
Hey it's awesome that it's something you two can enjoy together. Pretty cool that he's a good shot and enjoying the rifle combo. The blank stares makes for a good story.
 
😳
 

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I shimmed and bedded a pic rail to make a 20 moa into a 15.
You can go the opposite direction to acquire that extra amount to get him past 1k.
I could see shimming and bedding a picatinny rail. Do you remember how much of a shim for 5 moa? Thanks in advance Bob.
 
Hmmm check my math please Bob. My rail between screw spaces rough 4.5". So to get 7 moa on my rail I'll need about .009" shim on the rear of my rail. My Rem 700 SA rail is about 4.5" between mounting screw centers.
 
I could see shimming and bedding a picatinny rail. Do you remember how much of a shim for 5 moa? Thanks in advance Bob.
I was just looking at it wondering why I'm keeping the extra one, lol..
It's. 015 thick brass and it's twin is bedded under the front of my leupold 20 moa rail with Accra glass. It got my turret one full turn from bottom of adjustment so it left me with 80 moa going up if I remember right.
It worked good.
 

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Hmmm check my math please Bob. My rail between screw spaces rough 4.5". So to get 7 moa on my rail I'll need about .009" shim on the rear of my rail. My Rem 700 SA rail is about 4.5" between mounting screw centers.
I think you're close. I haven't had my first coffee and I can't tie my shoes yet, so no trig for me at this wee hour, lol.
 
I think you're close. I haven't had my first coffee and I can't tie my shoes yet, so no trig for me at this wee hour, lol.
Ya me too lol. That's why I asked for math check lol. I may send off a text to my machinist buddy so he can ask the engineers. Although he'll probably figure it out lol.
 
If shimming is performed, just remember to bed front and rear of the pic rail. Lightly secure rail screws to action until its ready to be removed for trimming. Then torque as normally required. The shim should be securely bedded to the rail forever.
 
If shimming is performed, just remember to bed front and rear of the pic rail. Lightly secure rail screws to action until its ready to be removed for trimming. Then torque as normally required. The shim should be securely bedded to the rail forever.
Yes Sir! I was even thinking I'll get some long screws (like action bedding screws) and surgical tuning the rail while bedding. As to not put any stress on the action.
 
1k with a .308 is doable, but there are so many better options. You're looking at somewhere near 1 ft of drift for every mph of wind at 1,000. It's like throwing an inflated ballon across your living room at the far wall.
I like your euphemism but comon now the ol 308 isn't that bad and if he gets it there probably not with factory ammo he will be a pretty **** good shooter after what it takes to get there. I got lucky or good or both not long ago with a box of 180gr Winchester ammo and got 3 out of 4 shots in a roughly 4 inch group with mine at 1000yrds and the next day i made this mess with handloads
 

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