Hi Standard 22 chamber pin dent repair?

spitfire_er

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I am wondering how you would fix this. I don't want to use a liner just to fix this because everything else is in good shape. Swaging won't fix this. Its about 25-30 thou deep.

First thoughts,
-TIG and machine
-Machine for a small bushing ring and solder in place. Re-machine for cleanup.

End goal, I'm going to make it look like it never happened.
 

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ShtrRdy

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I'm not knowledgable enough to actually do this myself but I would have the depression TIG welded up and then machine/file the excess to match.
 

J E Custom

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How or what did that ? It looks like it was done on purpose. Can you take a picture of the bolt face ?

J E CUSTOM
 

J E Custom

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Firing pin damage. The firing pin is that big around.

I thought it might be something like that. Rim fires are not supposed to be dry fired but some companies relieve the breach so that If they are dry fired, it won't damage the firing pin. If it wasn't that way when it was new, it has been dry fired and the firing pin has beat up the breach.

If it works/shoots fine, don't mess with it. chances are that It is supposed to be that way, and trying to weld and grind may do more damage.

J E CUSTOM
 

spitfire_er

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I thought it might be something like that. Rim fires are not supposed to be dry fired but some companies relieve the breach so that If they are dry fired, it won't damage the firing pin. If it wasn't that way when it was new, it has been dry fired and the firing pin has beat up the breach.

If it works/shoots fine, don't mess with it. chances are that It is supposed to be that way, and trying to weld and grind may do more damage.

J E CUSTOM
It's not suppose to be that way. Other than the extractor cut, it should all be flush., And yes.... obvious dry firing damage. I would just throw a barrel liner in it if the bore was junk, but other than this, the chamber and bore are in excellent condition. It's is having failure to fire issues and not real useable as is. Has about a 50% failure rate.
 

J E Custom

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It's not suppose to be that way. Other than the extractor cut, it should all be flush., And yes.... obvious dry firing damage. I would just throw a barrel liner in it if the bore was junk, but other than this, the chamber and bore are in excellent condition. It's is having failure to fire issues and not real useable as is. Has about a 50% failure rate.

If you figure out what it takes to fix the problem, I would also have your smith figure out how the install a firing pin stop so it doesn't do the same to your fix.

J E CUSTOM
 

shortgrass

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A barrel liner would be the lowest cost , and most accurate option. Welding and fixing the chamber may well 'lead' you there, anyway,,,, as the idea of counter boring and 'fixing' that for the chamber, may also. Good barrel or not,,,, barrel liner is the best way to go. JMO, after spending 30yrs dealing with stuff like this.
 

spitfire_er

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A barrel liner would be the lowest cost , and most accurate option. Welding and fixing the chamber may well 'lead' you there, anyway,,,, as the idea of counter boring and 'fixing' that for the chamber, may also. Good barrel or not,,,, barrel liner is the best way to go. JMO, after spending 30yrs dealing with stuff like this.
Yeah, Just hate boring out a nice original barrel.
 

spitfire_er

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I was running the thought through my head of plunging an end mill and making a plug just for that spot. That's about as far as I got. I'm afraid as shortgrass said, barrel liner might be the best option time wise, especially with a 4" barrel.
 

P7M13

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I wouldn't mess. Tig creates a hard spot.
You can still buy replacement barrels (OEM) from Nurmrich.
I have the same, older style type, for my Field King. Picked up a spare barrel to be threaded for a suppressor.
 

phorwath

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Could the shoulder be set back one barrel revolution, and then resurface the breech face and deepen the cut for the extractor slot?
Would also have to run a chamber reamer to restore its depth...
I'm doing this for a 1950s Colt Challenger.
 
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