Henry Long Ranger Reviews?

[timberelk]

If it has a half cock position it's just not possible because the hammer is not in contact with the firing pin at all.

Even on modern revolvers there is now a plate that come up only when the trigger is pulled which then allows the hammer to strike it, then the firing pin, there is no other possible way for them to fire.

The Henry almost certainly has one or both safety features but it's been too long since I looked closely at one to say.

The 1895's for sure cannot be fired except from the fully cocked position but some older models could conceivably be bump fired with a sharp enough blow with the hammer all the way down.

The long ranger does have a transfer bar "safety". I do not believe it has a half cock position because of this transfer bar safety.

I just wanted to ensure my thinking was correct. Because bump fire is a real concern in the bolt action world. However I believe a bump fire with the long ranger is impossible if the hammer is not cocked. And while hunting the hammer would not be cocked 99.99% of the time.

 

[WildRose]

The long ranger does have a transfer bar "safety". I do not believe it has a half cock position because of this transfer bar safety.

I just wanted to ensure my thinking was correct. Because bump fire is a real concern in the bolt action world. However I believe a bump fire with the long ranger is impossible if the hammer is not cocked. And while hunting the hammer would not be cocked 99.99% of the time.

Most of the bumpfire worry in the bolt action world is the product of liability lawyer fantasies, good acting, and stupid juries.

Yes, if you have a hair trigger it is possible to get a bump fire IF a weapon is off safe.

Now, to get there you have to first modify the trigger far outside of factory spec And be careless with your safety.

I personally like very light triggers but also have 3 position safeties on everything but my remington bolt guns so I never have to worry about it.

If I were you, with the transfer bar on the Henry I'd have no concern at all.

 

[timberelk]

Ended up buying the Henry and putting a luepold VX-2 4-12x40! Have high hopes for this rifle, especially with the Luepold CDS system! Thinking it will be my go to elk and deer gun out to 500 yards!

I will be attempting to find a gun Smith to lessen the trigger pull and will need to try to find a tripod that will fit the forearm. The sling swivel is in the front most part of the forearm stock and standard bipods don't mount and hold very steady

 

[timberelk]

I purchased one box of Hornady Whitetail hunter in 150 grain. One box of fusion 165 grain and 1 box of Hornady 165 grain SST (I hope it like the SST bullets!)

 

[WildRose]

You can add a second swivel and move the original down a bit

Ended up buying the Henry and putting a luepold VX-2 4-12x40! Have high hopes for this rifle, especially with the Luepold CDS system! Thinking it will be my go to elk and deer gun out to 500 yards!

I will be attempting to find a gun Smith to lessen the trigger pull and will need to try to find a tripod that will fit the forearm. The sling swivel is in the front most part of the forearm stock and standard bipods don't mount and hold very steady

for a better mount.

You might also consider getting a Trigger Sticks II low tripod with a yoke instead. I really like shooting off of them.

I like them well enough I have them in all three sizes so I can shoot from the prone to standing with them depending on the slope, terrain, cover etc.

 

[timberelk]

You can add a second swivel and move the original down a bit

for a better mount.

You might also consider getting a Trigger Sticks II low tripod with a yoke instead. I really like shooting off of them.

I like them well enough I have them in all three sizes so I can shoot from the prone to standing with them depending on the slope, terrain, cover etc.

How would I go about adding a second swivel? Are you suggesting putting a second swivel into the wood forearm of the stock?

Thanks for the recommendation on the trigger sticks! I like the idea but was really hoping to find a biopod that would fit the rifle and be attached to the rifle

 

[WildRose]

How would I go about adding a second swivel? Are you suggesting putting a second swivel into the wood forearm of the stock?

Thanks for the recommendation on the trigger sticks! I like the idea but was really hoping to find a biopod that would fit the rifle and be attached to the rifle

Yep. You see double swivels on the forearms of a lot of LR rigs for just that purpose.

I understand the utility of the mounted bipod but the tripod is a lot more versatile and much more stable. Bipods are pretty much useless except off of a bench, truck etc unless you're shooting over really flat barren ground.

After decades of thinking it was an essential tool I don't have one mounted on any of my rifles anymore.

 

[Bravo 4]

I am going to respectfully disagree. A majority of my shooting is done prone bipod, with quite a bit of tripod usage. No way a tripod setup is as stable as prone bipod w/rear bag. Even if I don't have it mounted, I'll have one accessible in a pack. If you limit yourself to one system you are compromising. You need to learn to shoot over your pack too, as well many alternate field positions. The biggest problem with a bipod is when you practice and rely on it solely.

 

[timberelk]

So I've been able to get out and shoot the rifle twice now. So far I've shot 150 grain Hornady Whitetail, 165 grain federal fusion, 165 grain Hornady SST And 178 grain federal match. The my parents I'm seeing are from about 2 moa to 4 or 5 MOA at 100 yards.

This is firing 3 rounds within a few minutes ten keying the gun cool. During the cool down I'd shoot my also new to me 300 mag where my groups are 1-1.5 moa at 100.

So I think there may be something up with the gun because I should be able to get closer to 1 MOA.

The very last 1" of forearm stock is not 100% free floated... should I remove the forearm and sand down the touch parts? Should I try to bed the rifle?

 

[Bravo 4]

Huh...imagine that!

Just kidding. I would say no to both of those, bet it would void the warranty. This picture is from their website, put it to the test.

 

[timberelk]

Huh...imagine that!

Just kidding. I would say no to both of those, bet it would void the warranty. This picture is from their website, put it to the test.

Hey man come on I took one for the team and spent almost $850 to test this gun out lol

But I was just hoping better than 3-4 moa. Many reviews had the gun at 1-2 moa. But it seems to really not like any of the 5 different ammo and grain size I've tried. Best I got was about 2-2.25 moa with Hornady SST but the rounds before that round were 3-4 moa with the same ammo. And that's with the front and rear of the gun supported and slow trigger pull and shooting one round ever 1-2 minutes and then after 3 or 5 rounds I'd let it cool for 10 or so minutes

So free floating the last 1" of the forearm won't help much? It's only one side of the forearm and it almost clears a dollar bill (the dollar bill will slide between the barrel and forearm with some pressure/force)

 

[Bravo 4]

Free floating may help, but then again it may have a pressure point at the end from the factory (on purpose). If it were me, I would check for a raised area at the end of the stock fore end. If it has one then I have talked to several old timers that would add to the raised area to see if a little pressure against the barrel helped. In other works go the opposite way then what you are thinking. If that didn't help I would call the manufacturer...honestly I would do that first. But hey, we all have our own ways.

 

[timberelk]

Free floating may help, but then again it may have a pressure point at the end from the factory (on purpose). If it were me, I would check for a raised area at the end of the stock fore end. If it has one then I have talked to several old timers that would add to the raised area to see if a little pressure against the barrel helped. In other works go the opposite way then what you are thinking. If that didn't help I would call the manufacturer...honestly I would do that first. But hey, we all have our own ways.

Call the manufacture and say what? The gun won't shoot MOA? Lol

Or are you referring to the forearm not totally free floated?

I was thinking I could remove the forearm wood and shoot the rifle to see if being completely free floated would help the accuracy?

 

[Bravo 4]

Yes I would call them and say I got a turd! If it won't hold near MOA that's the truth. Hold them to their claimed warranty.