Help with Savage Model 10

dzander

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Mar 9, 2016
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I have a older savage model 10 heavy barrel .308. I purchased a Bell and Carlson Medalist 2 stock for it. My question is should I glass bed it? Just the recoil Lug or the entire action?
I was able to get one 3 shot .5" group at 100 yards out of it but not consistently. I'm More in the .75"/ .85 range. Used the OCW method to determine charge weight, 43 grains reloader15 with 168g VLD hunting bullets, federal 210M primers. Lapua brass neck sized. I'm going to hunt with it this fall and expect to shoot 300-500 yards max.
I want to get the best out of it at 100 yards and then go out up to 500 and learn how to dial my scope for elevation. Am i asking to much out of this setup? i feel I'm getting closer to my goal and don't want to be satisfied with what i have yet.
 
I would test it at 300-500 yards and see what your load is doing.
Loads seem to change when tested farther out, sometime getting worse and sometimes getting better...
If it's pillar bedded already, make sure the tang is floated..
 
Hey there,
I Have a model 10 in 308, factory Choate stock with aluminium bedding block, not bedded... Shoots 1/2 inch pretty consistently with 168gr vlds, classic hunters and hybrids....

I have another savage in a bell and Carlson, I just bedded it around the recoil lug (think it has aluminium action screw pillars so I didn't bother with the rest of the action) not really sure it made a difference, it's a custom barrelled 25-06ai and I bedded when I put the barrel on before even shooting it and it has been very accurate since day one...

I say go ahead and bed it, 1/2 to 3/4" groups from a factory rifle is pretty good but u may find it tightens it up a bit more, if u decide to bed the whole action make sure you leave the safety tang free floating, savages apparently don't like pressure on the safety tang... Also some savage guys have found messing with the action screw torque settings will tighten them up a bit...
Good luck

Orch
 
Even though the Medalist has an aluminum block your rifle would benefit from a full bedding job on the action. Test the load farther out .
 
I bed everything even before starting load development.

And again,.... make sure to float the tang.
 
Bed everything but the tang. When you are done make sure the tang is relieved ( you should be able to fit a couple of pieces of paper between the stock and tang.)
 
Well, The tang was definitely touching the stock. I relieved it so a piece of paper .004" thick, slides under all around the tang. I can see there is just a line contact on the aluminum bedding block also. I roughed up the Aluminum and will try bedding it in today. Also adjusted the trigger to about 2lbs, as light as I could get it.
 
Sounds good, let us know if that tightens the groups up.

Did you try shooting it after relieving around the tang?
I'd be interested to know if that alone helped...

Orch
 
Well, The tang was definitely touching the stock. I relieved it so a piece of paper .004" thick, slides under all around the tang. I can see there is just a line contact on the aluminum bedding block also. I roughed up the Aluminum and will try bedding it in today. Also adjusted the trigger to about 2lbs, as light as I could get it.

Also drill 1/8" deep holes with a small diameter drill bit or dremel. It helps mechanically lock the epoxy. A lot of guys and myself use Devcon 10110, it is easy to control and extremely hard.
 
I did not shoot after relieving the tang.
I can see where I'm getting. Just a line contact on the receiver bottom on the aluminum bedding block, so I figured I'm going to just bed the receiver with epoxy anyways. Good tip on the holes for the epoxy to lock onto, I'll do that.
 
Bedded it tonight. Tang is clear of stock. Excited to see if I get Better results.
Anyone use the OCW test to determine charge weight?
I did this already but wonder if I should repeat after bedding?
 
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