Help with AR15 Varmint Build

So far I think I have what I want figured out. I have been doing alot of research and talking to people but if someone sees something they think would be better off different please let me know.

I have a locally made 7075 t6 lower with a spikes tactical parts kit w/ JP trigger springs
a carbine length buffer tube currently with a spikes tactical st-t2 buffer and spring
Magpul STR stock

and am planning on adding the following
Vltor MUR 1A upper
WOA 18 in rifle gas SPR barrel with there fitted bolt (still deciding if I should custom order it 1:8 twist)
JP low profile adjustable gas block
VG6 EPSILON 556 muzzle break
Odin Works 15" Keymod free float handguard
La Rue Tactical scope mount
Vortex Viper PST 2.5-10 FFP scope
JP low mass bolt carrier
JP low mass or captured buffer/spring
Im thinking either the BCM ambi or the rainier Raptor ambi charging handle
ALG ACT trigger with JP springs

I have heard that the Vltor MUR upper helps increase accuracy over other uppers because of its tight tolerances and added mass in certain areas. I have heard this from guys with multiple ar's and have read that the Vltor and Mega uppers are best for accuracy. The reason I am choosing to go with the adjustable gas block and low mass components is I have been talking to a guy that shoots three gun and he suggested the low mass components and adjustable gas block with a brake to remove virtually all recoil for faster followup shots.

As for the barrel I have read nothing but positive reviews on the quality and accuracy of the WOA barrels. I have talked with them and I can special order the 18" spr barrel in a 1:8 twist if I decide the 1:7 is to fast.

ghostwolf,

I think you will be very satisfied with the WOA barrel. I have the Vortex 4-16 PST on my 308, very nice scopes. I was deciding between the 2.5 -10 PST and a Nikon of the same range when I found the Nikon 3-12 on sale for 300$, was too good of a deal to pass.

My personal opinion, stay away from the low mass stuff. the AR was designed and is very reliable with a full auto carrier. If you go with the rifle length gas system, the recoil impulse is very smooth. Your decision though.

If you hunt by yourself, a brake is ok, but will be uncomfortable to any one sitting beside you. Honestly, with the additional weight of the barrel, and considering your shooting 223, recoil is already very light. If you must have a brake, check out the battlecomp, one of the least obnoxious brakes out there. I run a battlecomp on my BCM HD rifle, and they work very good.

Here is a 100 yard target with some 55 gr bullets from a 16 in 1:7 twist with a 5.56 nato chamber. i think a 1: 8 would be an awesome choice also. I even shot some blitz, which were not suppose to make it to the target, but they did! And not a bad group either.

I plan to run the sierra 1390 and 1365 for yotes, and the 65 gamekings for Deer., out of this new one.

Good luck
 

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Barrel length is free velocity. From chrono testing 14.5, 16 & 20 inch barrels 55 gr had about 50 fps per inch. I have two 20 inch with brakes and I started thinking how the brake adds 2 - 2.5 inches.

So the logical choice is no brake and a longer barrel. Barrel length and weight are very effective in recoil reduction. So my latest barrel is 24 inch ss in 223
 
In not set on low mass so if they are not worth it in a rifle length system with an 18" barrel I might just get a standard bcg instead and keep my St-t2 buffer
 
In not set on low mass so if they are not worth it in a rifle length system with an 18" barrel I might just get a standard bcg instead and keep my St-t2 buffer

IMHO, they are not worth it, but that is my decision, your needs may be entirely different than mine. I strongly recommend you do your own research and come to your own conclusions. There are several forums that deal with nothing but AR's. But you must verify what you read on the error net, lots of misinformation being passed as facts.

Velocity is not high on my priority list, whatever it is, it can be measured and doped to whatever range I decide I want to. Accuracy and reliability are are tops in my opinion. But here again, you need to decide what your specific needs are. i also would not mess with the trigger and hammer spring until you've tried it out. The AGL ACT is pretty impressive for 65 ish dollars. I have the SSA in my BCM, and not sure I would spend the extra cash if I was to do it again.



A little insight into why I made the choices I did. I tend to like to collect military firearms. And not being loaded with funds, often I try to combine that hobby with my hunting firearms. So this project started as a MK 12 Mod 0 clone that I could also do some hunting and target shooting, and maybe even some tactical training with. After much research and reading, it morphed into what it is now. It is really closer to a MK 12 mod 1 clone now, although definitely my interpretation. I am very pleased with the way the the rifle came together.



So decide what your needs and intended use are and have fun. Keeps us informed.

Good luck
Semper fi
 
I want an accurate and reliable weapon as well. Those are my priorities as well. I am pretty much in the same boat you are with wanting something similar to a MK12. It will be used for target, hunting and tactical training as well. I have been looking into the low mass stuff and it seems to be very popular in three gun matches to get the rifle to have close to zero recoil for super fast followup shots. I will look into it more and I might choose the middle ground and go with a seekins low mass which is about a mid weight BCG.

Velocity is not high on my priority list, whatever it is, it can be measured and doped to whatever range I decide I want to. Accuracy and reliability are are tops in my opinion. But here again, you need to decide what your specific needs are. i also would not mess with the trigger and hammer spring until you've tried it out. The AGL ACT is pretty impressive for 65 ish dollars. I have the SSA in my BCM, and not sure I would spend the extra cash if I was to do it again. conclusions. There are several forums that deal with nothing but AR's. But you must



A little insight into why I made the choices I did. I tend to like to collect military firearms. And not being loaded with funds, often I try to combine that hobby with my hunting firearms. So this project started as a MK 12 Mod 0 clone that I could also do some hunting and target shooting, and maybe even some tactical training with. After much research and reading, it morphed into what it is now. It is really closer to a MK 12 mod 1 clone now, although definitely my interpretation. I am very pleased with the way the the rifle came together.



So decide what your needs and intended use are and have fun. Keeps us informed.

Good luck
Semper fi
 
FWIW, I built this rifle about 15 months ago and honestly have yet to find anything it doesn't shoot very well! With match ammo I routinely shoot 1/2MOA (and smaller) 5 shoot groups.

Noveske/Vltor MUR-1A upper with bolt assist
Vltor Low-Profile Gas Block
BCM Charging Handle
JPBC-3 SP Polished Stainless Low Mass Carrier
Schreyer Weapon Systems SWS-15 Lower Receiver
Geissele Hi-Speed Match Rifle trigger
JP Silent capture spring
ERGO Tactical Deluxe Grip
Magpul PRS stock
Lothar Walther 18" barrel length, 8" twist, stainless, .223 Wylde chamber
Noveske NSR 15" handguard
SureFire MB556K Muzzle Brake
Bobro 1 piece 30MM Precision Optic Mount
Nightforce 3.5-15x56 - NP-R1 Reticle


I also own 2 Danial Defense (14.5 & 16") that will hold 1"MOA (5 shots) and a Supermatch barrels come with an individually head-spaced JPenhanced bolt
that so far runs .75MOA. (If I had it to do all over again, I would have gone the route with another Lothar Walther)...


YMMV
 
I was talking to a friend today and I was wondering, from your experience is going with the vltor mur worth the e tra money over say an Anderson or any other upper? Does the upper really have anything to do with accuracy?
 
I was talking to a friend today and I was wondering, from your experience is going with the vltor mur worth the e tra money over say an Anderson or any other upper? Does the upper really have anything to do with accuracy?

Let me start out by saying I have no experience with an Anderson Upper. (I did own a Mega Arms Billet upper and billet lower set that shot fine, but I ended up selling it in favor of building Noveske upper with their Hand Guard)

This may be a round-about way of answering your question, but here goes - All my rigs are set up with Noveske/Vltor MUR-1A uppers. Why, I confess I'm a Noveske fan boy. :D

The following is from the Vltor MUR website (so consider that their may be a little marketing hype).

"
The MUR is a rigid Mil-Spec flat-top upper made to fit all AR15/M16 M4 rifles and carbines. The MUR was developed to give the customer a Mil-Spec correct upper receiver with a thicker wall, making the MUR upper receiver a stronger platform. This more rigid upper receiver will increase accuracy and reliability, while extending the life of the interfacing components."

All that said, everything I found while researching my builds stated that they may in-fact be slightly more ridged.

Interestingly, ALL on my
Noveske/Vltor MUR-1A uppers, when mounted on my 1 (and only) Schreyer Weapon Systems SWS-15 Lower
show a slight amount of play. If I take each of these uppers and install then on my Noveske N4 Gen II lower, their is NO play what-so-ever which I found a little surprising considering what I spent on the Schreyer lower...

All that being said, in a complete build, seeking the utmost in accuracy, I would first focus on a premium barrel. Second, quality glass. Third would be a quality FCG or Trigger. Next consideration would be a quality upper, (
Spikes, Rainier, Bravo Company, Stag, Vltor, MEGA, Noveske etc) with a free floating hand guard.

If you still want to do a little more damage to the wallet and will not be lugging this rig around, you may consider solid stock system. (I hate the looks but love the functionality of the
Magpul PRS).

Hope this helps...
 
Stugots: How does your safety lever work? Picture below.



This is what I did and this is what it cost me. The scope was extra for $200 and about $69 for the rings (can get less expensive to keep under $1500).

Scope is a Bushnell AR/223 with 4.5-18x40mm. Rings are Warne QD Ultra High Aluminum.

(223/5.56)

Lower = $450
Geissele SSA-E trigger = $230
WOA 18" 1 in 7" twist Varmint upper = $610
Fluting by WOA $100
Shipping = $18
=========================
Total = $ 1408.

gt40

PS: First 100 yd. 5 shot target. The next was with 69 gr. Match Kings which measured about .375".
 

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Stugots: How does your safety lever work? Picture below.



This is what I did and this is what it cost me. The scope was extra for $200 and about $69 for the rings (can get less expensive to keep under $1500).

Scope is a Bushnell AR/223 with 4.5-18x40mm. Rings are Warne QD Ultra High Aluminum.

(223/5.56)

Lower = $450
Geissele SSA-E trigger = $230
WOA 18" 1 in 7" twist Varmint upper = $610
Fluting by WOA $100
Shipping = $18
=========================
Total = $ 1408.

gt40

PS: First 100 yd. 5 shot target. The next was with 69 gr. Match Kings which measured about .375".

Excellent Shooting! That is a 60 degree short throw safety selector sorry, can't remember the manufacturer. (Working fine so far).
 
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