Help with .260 AAR

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by bowhunthard, Aug 5, 2010.

  1. bowhunthard

    bowhunthard Well-Known Member

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    I was looking at buying a rifle in .260 AAR, and was wondering if anyone had any experience or insight on this cartridge.

    How easy is it to load? How many resizing/fireforming steps do I need to do before case is ready for accuracy, etc.?

    Capable accuracy? Barrel life?

    Thanks again.
     
  2. ICANHITHIMMAN

    ICANHITHIMMAN Well-Known Member

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    I have experience with the 260 rem but what is a 260 AAR? do you know what the acroynim stands for?
     
  3. bowhunthard

    bowhunthard Well-Known Member

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    It stands for .260 All-Around Rifle, I believe. It's a .257 AI, necked up to .264".
     
  4. Jamie6.5

    Jamie6.5 Well-Known Member

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    AKA 6.5x257Roberts Ackley improved 40 degree. Yeah that's a mouth full! (note my moniker)

    Mine is easy to do. Resize .257bob case neck to 6.5(.260) load a moderate charge of Rl19 or I4350, a cheapo 120gr bullet and shoot. Presto! .260AAR case. Neck size w/ a slight shoulder bump, and square the necks w/case trimmer.
    Pretty much standard case prep, if you fireform. I use .257bob +P Win cases.
    Easy to do, and you can also use a 7x57 case for single step re-sizing, but I would check for neck thickness uniformity. Lapua or Norma make great cases for the 7x57.
    It also depends on how the chamber was cut. I had Dave Kiff build my reamer for ease of case prep with a .297 "no-turn" neck. I had the chamber cut so it headspaces on the neck-shoulder juncture. That way I don't have to jam bullets for fireforming.
    I have also used the Bullseye/COW method for fireforming, but I am not sold on it.

    Mine shows signs of being VERY accurate so far. Sub 1/2MOA (pushing 1/4MOA) w/120s at around 3200 out of a 24" tube. I am switching to the 123SMK though, so I am starting over w/that.
    I also want to try the 130gr Swift. Great BC for a 130gr.
    Performance is close on the heels of the 6.5x.284, with better barrel life, and better than a .260Rem by a fair amount.
    I would check the twist though, as less than 1:8 means the use of 140gr class bullets is iffy. Some will shoot them, some won't. Mine is 1:9.

    I got my dies at Grafs: Graf & Sons - 6.5/257 40^
    It seems to like a variety of powders, from 4064 with the light slugs, to the 4350s and 4831s too. ReLoader choices are 17,19, and even 22 for the 140gr class.
    Older manuals like my 1968 Speer manual have loads for the 6.5x57 Mauser, which will give you a place to start load development.
    I am at ~52gr of Rl19 with my pet load. CCI 200s. 100+% LD.
    Start lower and work up.

    Would I do it again? Oh hell yeah I would. As a matter of fact I am thinking about a 26" barrel next time, and/or a lightweight contour 24" also for a mountain rifle.
    No problem!
    Good shooting,
    Jamie
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2010
  5. ICANHITHIMMAN

    ICANHITHIMMAN Well-Known Member

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    wow never heard of that till now thanks for the lesson JE
     
  6. bowhunthard

    bowhunthard Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the help guys, it was very informative. I don't think I'm going to buy the rifle though, he only wants $400 for it but I really don't want/need a rifle in the configuration he has. It's a Mauser 98 action with a 22" cut and re-crowned barrel, sporter-style, with a vertical style grip/high rollover scalloped cheekpiece.

    I'm buying a 6mm International off him instead, again, $400. That rifle is a older Shilen action, 28" SS 1.25" dia. barrel (not sure what twist), with an old-school wood-laminate thumbhole.

    Any suggestions or tips on the 6mm International would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks again.