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Help building a long range set up

bryanfields

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2015
Messages
129
Hey, I'd like to build a long range set up. I'm looking at a Savage action ($500 if I bought the gun new), Shilen drop-in barrel ($400 installed from a local gs), and Choate tactical stock ($200). The cost of the set-up (minus rings, glass, etc) would be around $1,100. That seems to be a much better option than paying $3,000 - $5,000 for a custom gun. I'm a newbie so can you seasoned fellas tell me, is there something I'm missing? Would the set-up I've listed above not be just as good as a custom set up? Thanks! I can list the caliber, barrel contour, etc, if that's relevant to get a good answer to my question. Also, I'm guessing I'm not the first guy to ask this question, but I can't find a thread that specifically addresses this question.
 
It sounds like a good setup but there are differences. Yes the barrel is a key component as is the stock. The action is also very key to a true reliable long range setup. The tolerences the alignment of the base mounting holes the trigger all play vital roles. The savage does have a good adjustable trigger and I am by no means downing the setup because it sounds great even especially on a budget. I just built a custom barrel for a pro hunter. I can tell u that the friend that helped me used a shilen match barrel on a similar set up and it had quite a bit of run out when we put it in the lathe. I used a pac nor and it had .001 run out the entire length of 31" That is real quality and the fluting and contour are perfect. Good luck
 
That is a fine start for a long range setup. I would consider a used 110 or a Stevens 200. It would be best if your smith could true up the action. The new Savages have a fine trigger but the older ones leave a lot to be desired. A Timney is a good affordable alternative. A PTG bolt body is a good way to tighten up the action and add a little bling.

PTG Bolt Body Savage 110 Long Action Spiral Fluted

A lot of people shy away from pre-chambered pre-threaded barrels. A lot of people buy them and are pleased. Just one more thing to think about. :)
 
Okay, very helpful info! Thank you. I talked to a local gs and he said he prefers to install the barrels that are pre-chambered and threaded. What is the reason to avoid a pre-chambered and threaded barrel?
 
For a savage a prefit barrel is the norm, other actions the smith cuts them. The advantage of a smith cutting them is you can customize your chamber per your desired bullet.

FWIW, I went the savage route and needless to say it didn't take long for me to jump to the next level. If I were to do it all over again I would have gone straight to the custom and saved myself a good deal of change, or at least used custom.

A few things on your build. Choate stocks are heavy, rifle basix triggers are a fine addition, I wouldn't waste the money on a ptg bolt unless it was for a rem 700 upgrade or other action. The savage bolt is sloppy and if you want to tighten it up get a new bolt body, ptg bolts aren't cheap. Savages floating bolt head is perfectly adequate and is credited for savage accuracy when machining is less than perfect. As for the barrel, I would get a Criterion without hesitation. My 280 is about a 1/4-1/3" gun, thats w/ an untrued action. Twisted the new barrel on w/ a go gauge in a garage.

One thing that can be an issue is the mag length. What caliber are you building?

Edit*** I think I have a SSS trigger on my 280 and a basix on my 308.
 
I'm doing the same thing in a 338 edge. Sent it off to have the face and bolt trued up and will install a barrel from Apache gun works.
 
Thank you ohiohunter. Very helpful info. I'm building a 7mm rem mag. I've loaded 168 Berger Classic Hunters and that's what I'd hope to use in this build if they'll shoot. I like the heaviness of the Choate stock to help with recoil. I will look into the other additions you recommended.
A couple of you guys have mentioned truing the action. Do I need to do this even if I'm sticking with the same caliber that the gun was originally chambered for?
 
The caliber change is irrelevant, but I did nothing to my action. If I were you I wouldn't bother, if for some reason you're having issues then have it trued. Twisting savage barrels is like tying a shoe.

Call Jim at northland, he'll gladly set you up, he carries the CBI barrels. Get a new lug and machined nut.

I'd also shoot the vld's over the thinner jacketed berger hunting bullets, especially for elk. I've had mag issues w/ my 280 shooting 180s, I wish I had gone w/ the 284. Something to consider, and its easy to swap out the bolt heads on savages.
 
I thought about going this rout but instead i spent 700 bucks more and went full custom .the issue with pre fitvbarrels is they are made to screw on every savage action instead of being. Threaded for yours. Not very precise but doesnt mean u cant get a veru accurate rifle. I went with a remington 700 action and had it blueprinted and trued before having my krieger barrel mounted to it. If i were u i would either save the money and start piecing your custom gun together. If u want something now for a 1000 bucks u cant get a remington sendaro or the savage 110 fcp that will shoot under 1 moa out of the box. Most of the people i know that went ur rout quickly sold them and built a full custom. You can put a full custom together for around 2000 bucks that i think u may be more happy with. If u have an old rem 700 in the safe or a savage u may aleeady have ur action for ur build.
 
Thank you harleybug. What makes a gun "full custom"? Are you mainly suggesting that I get my barrel threaded for my specific action?
 
Thank you harleybug. What makes a gun "full custom"? Are you mainly suggesting that I get my barrel threaded for my specific action?

The gun you are building is a custom gun, but when he says full custom he is saying the barrel is a blank you get to pick chamber dimensions and the smith will cut and thread it to your action. Again most prefits do not give you the options such as free bore. Though I wouldn't call a gun full custom on a 700 action.

He is suggesting not going the savage route. You could have a barrel threaded and shouldered for your savage but I have yet to see it proven to be better. The savage action leaves a lot to be desired. If you are dead set on your chosen budget by all means have at it.

You mentioned something about recoil and the heavy stock. Personally I would rather have the weight in my barrel than in the stock, I'm not saying go ultralight but check the weight on your components and see what your final weight is. I also know there are a lot of guys willing to pack a far heavier rifle than I, but I don't think that 7mag w/168gr pills is going to be a shoulder buster. Honestly my sub 10lb 300wm w/ 215's is tolerable, no break. I'm just putting all this out there so you don't do the same bs I did.

Rereading my post and thinking.. heck I'd just get a 7mag Sendero or that 300wm milspec in the classifieds.
 
I appreciate the feedback ohiohunter. I was originally looking at the Senderro or the Sako a7 long distance model. Both have the potential to be very accurate, but I read too many reviews of guys having bad experiences with them. It seems my chances of getting a highly accurate rifle are a bit better by putting a gun together myself. If I did anything different it would probably be too wait a little longer and save up my money for something better. But if there's something I'm missing, don't hesitate to give me your opinion.
When you say the Savage action leaves a lot to be desired, can you elaborate on that? Does that mean it's a poor action to build on. Thank you so much!
 
I appreciate the feedback ohiohunter. I was originally looking at the Senderro or the Sako a7 long distance model. Both have the potential to be very accurate, but I read too many reviews of guys having bad experiences with them. It seems my chances of getting a highly accurate rifle are a bit better by putting a gun together myself. If I did anything different it would probably be too wait a little longer and save up my money for something better. But if there's something I'm missing, don't hesitate to give me your opinion.
When you say the Savage action leaves a lot to be desired, can you elaborate on that? Does that mean it's a poor action to build on. Thank you so much!

A reworked 700 action is not a full custom.

What about the milspec? Even if you ran into problems with the sendero a few bucks to a smith or a return flight to remington should fix it.

Savage actions are rough and sloppy, they work but bottom of the barrel. The trigger options aren't all that great, a jewell compared to any savage trigger is night and day. Don't get me wrong you can have an accurate savage, I do, but after owning only a savage and then handling what I could of had (700 or better) you will quickly find an excuse to get the better rifle. If budget minded is all this build is then absolutely get the savage action, I would still opt for a better stock. Which reminds me, finding savage long action stocks is a pain while there are rem stocks turning over hand and fist all the time.

I would pick up that stiller action on here for $700 or get a 700 from a gun show or pawn shop rebarrel and shop for a stock. Get a jewell and call it a day. Also the mag well of a rem 700 is long than a savage and you still have the wyatt option. You don't have to get the action blueprinted.

What is your budget? What barrel? Do you have any actions in hand to use or is this ground up?
 
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