Headspacing question

rickdavis81

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2009
Messages
217
Location
SW Missouri
I'm getting ready to rebarrel 2 more Savage actions. One to 300 blackout and another to 7mm RM. I've always used go/no go gauges in the past. But after reading some more it looks like if I used a resized casing ran thru my dies to set the headspace there might be some benefits such as longer brass life or more accuracy. Any truth to it? Or should I stick with go gauges? And if I'm right I just FL resize the brass and treat it as the go gauge? Rifles will always be used with handloads. Thanks
 
I might try sending half a dozen fired cases to the reamer manufacturer and having them use that a grind the reamer but I wouldn't try what you're describing and, even though there are probably a few around, I don't know a gun smith that would let something like that out of his shop.
 
When building for yourself you can set it up any way you want.

There is no harm in what you are proposing but it would be the exact same thing. You're setting off the gauge but just not using it. If you want it tight set your headspace off new unfired brass but be aware you might have to shorten your full length sizer to be able to bump the shoulder that short. Also another lot o brass may not fit at all. Factory brass dimensions vary drastically.

By neck sizing or only minimally bumping the shoulder minimizes working of the brass and that always extends the life of it. This can be done on any chamber even grossly long head spaced rifles.
 
Get a piece of new brass that you intend to use and put two pieces of scotch tape on the back of it and headspace it as normal. You will then have new brass plus .004 for your headspace measurement. Do several pieces of brass this way so you can average it out.
 
I know there is more then one way to skin a cat. I have made go and no-one go gauges out of brass. It can be done safely every time. Do your research, it is out there, follow directions closely and enjoy swapping barrels yourself.
 
Go gauges are not that expensive. You can use brass as you have described, but you have the possibility of slightly compressing that brass case without even realizing you are doing it as you screw the barrel and action together. I would (I have) bought the proper gauges, and won't do the job without them.
 
I've always used go gauges before and it's not about the $30. I thought maybe there was some accuracy or brass life to be had. 300 blackout go gauges are a little tough to come by though.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 10 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top