headspace

If you set your seating die to accommodate the current headspace length wouldn't that prevent any issues?
I think you meant your sizing die...full length sizing die. Nevertheles, you can just size to your rifle's headspace IF your cartridge headspaces off of the shoulder datum line. But if excessive, you have stretched the brass a great deal directly above the web of the brass.......hence, separation.
 
I think you meant your sizing die...full length sizing die. Nevertheles, you can just size to your rifle's headspace IF your cartridge headspaces off of the shoulder datum line. But if excessive, you have stretched the brass a great deal directly above the web of the brass.......hence, separation.
Yes - You're correct, I did mean "sizing die". An initial .008" of headspace sounds extreme but if the sizing die keeps the brass at that headspace rather then setting it back .008" again I'd assume that it would be fine.
 
Yes - You're correct, I did mean "sizing die". An initial .008" of headspace sounds extreme but if the sizing die keeps the brass at that headspace rather then setting it back .008" again I'd assume that it would be fine.
Yea, I think most folks, regardless of the rifles headspacing, set their fl sizing die to size enough to allow the bolt handle to drop with no force. Which is about 0.002"-0.005" shorter than fired.
 
I took a 223 wssm barrel off a model 70 put a 243 wssm barrel on loaded a new brass 35 grs varget with a 100 gr bullet fired it and the gunsmith who put the barrel on measured the new brass and then the fired brass and he said 8 thousandths the fired brass looked good


Fire some factory ammo in the new barrel. Measure head to datum. Size to same.
 
Yea, I think most folks, regardless of the rifles headspacing, set their fl sizing die to size enough to allow the bolt handle to drop with no force. Which is about 0.002"-0.005" shorter than fired.
When question one of my own rifles I buy,rent are borrow a go gage and I have a 0.003 strip of feeler gage I cut a piece of off and use a dab of super glue to stick to the back of the gage if the bolt closes I am not happy.Just myself aiming for cheap precision.no need in stretching the brass anymore than you half to.brass needs to last until the next election
 
Yea, I think most folks, regardless of the rifles headspacing, set their fl sizing die to size enough to allow the bolt handle to drop with no force. Which is about 0.002"-0.005" shorter than fired.
All a bolt dropping by itself tells you is that there's a gap of undetermined size. I set my headspaces (Savage barrel nut) so that there is a slight force required (<< 1 lb) to close the bolt. I'm convince this "snug" headspace is optimum. Why would there need to be any gap at all?
 
i have done it this way and scotch tape on the back of gage 0.003 is 0.003 and better than 0.008
 

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I have struggled with the .243 WSSM. I purchased three used Model 70s and had a gunsmith chamber a custom barrel to replace one of the factory barrels. I purchased full length sizing die from Forster. It would not size the cases enough to close in any of the chambers. I purchased a Redding Full length Bushing die and the same story. In despiration, I purchased a RCBS full length size die and it would not size cases to fit the chamber. In desperation, a friend tried a Redding full length size die in .300 Remington Ultra Mag. It was successful in sizing the base of the cartridge to fit the chamber. He used the Redding Ultra press. The .300 RUM die split under the pressure and I got a hundred cases to fit. Those cases would fit any of the chambers. My former friend would not risk the replacement die I purchased for any more cases. I had Whidden build a die to size cases and it works, but my RCBS Rock Chucker does not have enough leverage to close the die on the shell holder and I have to get someone else to size for me. My conclusion is that there is a disconnect between what the die makers and rifle makers believe are the specifications.
 

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