Having issues getting the bolt to eject

The bolt will go up. But not pull out. That's all I got. I'm sending it back to the manufacturer
Remington won't touch it as it's been modified. You only need to send the bolt to Accutig after taking a simple measurement, spelled out on his site.

Have you got a different magnum bolt to try? I had a RR action that did the same thing right out of the box on a new 6.5-284 build. Even with wimpy loads, the handle lifted fine, but I had to stand up and beat on the handle to get them out of the chamber. No primary extraction at all. I robbed a bolt out of a different gun and that worked fine til Dan returned the new tigged one. His turnaround is dam quick.
 
Any gunsmith who blueprints a Remington should be familiar with retiming the handle, it's not a black art despite what some say.
 
I got a new gun. Remington 700 that was blueprinted. Got a McMillan stock in the game warden. Ordered a Carbon wrapped barrel in the 28 nosler. Had it put together and found the bolt will open up after a shot. But I can't pull it back. Takes a lot of work. Right now it's a single shot. Wondering if anyone has a suggestion on what's up. Head space is good. I'll include pictures of the brass.


Why would you hunt with Remington??
 
Remington won't touch it as it's been modified. You only need to send the bolt to Accutig after taking a simple measurement, spelled out on his site.
It's on the way to Alaska now!!!
Have you got a different magnum bolt to try? I had a RR action that did the same thing right out of the box on a new 6.5-284 build. Even with wimpy loads, the handle lifted fine, but I had to stand up and beat on the handle to get them out of the chamber. No primary extraction at all. I robbed a bolt out of a different gun and that worked fine til Dan returned the new tigged one. His turnaround is dam quick.
 
I got a new gun. Remington 700 that was blueprinted. Got a McMillan stock in the game warden. Ordered a Carbon wrapped barrel in the 28 nosler. Had it put together and found the bolt will open up after a shot. But I can't pull it back. Takes a lot of work. Right now it's a single shot. Wondering if anyone has a suggestion on what's up. Head space is good. I'll include pictures of the brass.
 
I purchased a Ruger M77 Hawkeye Long Range in 6.5PRC. I took it home, ran the bolt back and forth a few times. Fine. Few days later went to the range to zero it, same problem as some of you. Could lift the bolt handle up and down but forget drawing the bolt back no matter how hard I pulled. Had to send it to factory to fix the problem.
 
Looks like a rough chamber, try working the bolt with a fired case 20 times or so without extracting, that should give you more pronounced marks on the case and will give you proof of a rough chamber, send a picture to the smith he should have no problem correcting the issue.
An empty case will feel almost the same as a fired case. The extraction will just be slightly easier. If he looks at his gap between the rear of the receiver and his bolt he'll be able to see if the camming surfaces are meeting up. I just went through this whole process on a truck gun i slapped together from spare parts. Its a pain if its not timed right.
 
I got a new gun. Remington 700 that was blueprinted. Got a McMillan stock in the game warden. Ordered a Carbon wrapped barrel in the 28 nosler. Had it put together and found the bolt will open up after a shot. But I can't pull it back. Takes a lot of work. Right now it's a single shot. Wondering if anyone has a suggestion on what's up. Head space is good. I'll include pictures of the brass.
I think that this will help.
As brass has been shot out any rifle it will conform to said rifles interior chamber dimensions, and even closing the bolt on a cartridge case that has already been fired just to see if it will fit may feel tight. Usually the brass will flow towards the bolt face making for hard extraction problems.(yes your brass will now be custom fit to your chamber. Even if you FL resize or just neck size your brass it may not fit into your weapon without an unduly amount of applied pressure I have found that Redding manufactures what is called a body die. I you use this die in conjunction with the competition stepped shell holder set, well you can kill to birds with one stone. Go to Redding's web site for details.
Question do you have a cartridge overall head space Gage in this caliber for your rifle? If you do I would be very curious to see whether or not your round does bottom out in the Gage or does it 's head protrude from sitting flush ? Assuming that your trim to length is within specs. (I strongly suggest that you purchase one) If this is indeed the case your problem has now been revealed. If it has not then you may have a stacked tolerance issue with either the the rifles chamber, throat or barrel. In either case have your firearm checked out by a competent gun smith , but before all of this please get another brand of factory brand ammunition of the appropriate caliber just to see if it will chamber correctly. If it does then follow the latter road. Good Luck & I hope this helps ! I kinda doubt that your new stock is the problem assuming that the action screws are torqued to the correct amount.
INHO Remingtons QC has slipped since the merger with the former Marlin Manufacturing Company was acquired. I have had issues with the so called Rem-Lins and have take the rifle to a good smith for evaluation, before sending said rifle back .
 
Last edited:
You definitely have a primary extraction problem. The camming surfaces on the bolt lugs should move the bolt back about 0.040" or so. The extractor breaks the brass case out of the chamber and allows the case to be easily ejected.
Either the cam surfaces or the groove on the extractor have way too much clearance.
If it were a rough chamber, the bolt handle would be hard to lift.
 
Since the action has been Modified, Remington won't want to touch the rifle or want to discuss the problem with you.
Something is not right with the rifle and it will not function properly.
I would contact the person that done the Blue Printing, Installed and Chambered the barrel. Retiming the bolt is part of the Blue Printing if very much metal is removed from the action contacts, and/or the back of the bolt lugs.
Like the old rancher said, "That Calf Needs Relicked".
 
Warning! This thread is more than 5 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top