Having a dilemma.... What would you do?

[GetReel]

I have a Remington 700 VS in 22-250 and I want to take it to the "next level".
It has a 26" 1-14 twist barrel, I want to take that off and put on a 18"-20" 1-12 twist, threaded for a suppressor. not a heavy barrel but more of a medium contour to save weight, and fluted to save more.
trigger is good
true the action up
add tactical bolt knob and flute the bolt
cerakote barrel, action, bolt etc in like a FDE color

for all that, it would be in the $1500+ range
At that point, would you guys just sell the rifle and have one built how I want or basically re-do the whole rifle?

My intended purpose for this rifle is for 500yrds and less.

any and all input is appreciated.

Thanks, Dave

 

[toddc]

Stiller action $975
Remage barrel $350
Barrel nut $50
$1375 without cerrakote and you have a REAL action with RESALE value and it will shoot as well or better than a stock trued action. And you will have it faster in most cases.

 

[MudRunner2005]

I have customs built on a 700 action that shoot just as good as full custom rifles. Accuracy is in the quality of the build and components, not the brand on the side of the action.

Build the 700 action...It's already in your safe and paid for. You won't be disappointed as long as you have a quality gunsmith doing the work.

Also, Todd, you forgot to add a bottom metal assembly, a stock, and about $500-1000 for gunsmithing fees (what those big-time smiths charge).

 

[ohiohunter]

Curious why such a slow twist?

I'd scratch the fluting, you won't save as much weight as you think.. its more cosmetic. SO basically rebarrel, true, knob, and paint. All in all it should be sub $1000. Or make it a prefit remage and save quite a bit more.

 

[toddc]

I have customs built on a 700 action that shoot just as good as full custom rifles. Accuracy is in the quality of the build and components, not the brand on the side of the action.

Build the 700 action...It's already in your safe and paid for. You won't be disappointed as long as you have a quality gunsmith doing the work.

Also, Todd, you forgot to add a bottom metal assembly, a stock, and about $500-1000 for gunsmithing fees (what those big-time smiths charge).

He inferred he was keeping stock so I added no stock or bottom metal.
Also the Remage will have a $0 smith charge unless he can't use a No-go gauge.
Yes some stock actions will shoot all day long with a custom. All of my Savages do at 1k, however I can't sell one of my Savages for crap and yet I could turn a custom action gun for a good % of what I have in it.

 

[toddc]

Curious why such a slow twist?

I'd scratch the fluting, you won't save as much weight as you think.. its more cosmetic. SO basically rebarrel, true, knob, and paint. All in all it should be sub $1000. Or make it a prefit remage and save quite a bit more.

I wondered on the twist as well. A 22-250AI running heavy VLDs would be a more sensible choice unless the wind never blows where you live.

 

[toddc]

Curious why such a slow twist?

I'd scratch the fluting, you won't save as much weight as you think.. its more cosmetic. SO basically rebarrel, true, knob, and paint. All in all it should be sub $1000. Or make it a prefit remage and save quite a bit more.

Flutes are for orchestras. Looks cool, very possibly won't shoot as well according to many barrel makers.

 

[toddc]

I have customs built on a 700 action that shoot just as good as full custom rifles. Accuracy is in the quality of the build and components, not the brand on the side of the action.

Build the 700 action...It's already in your safe and paid for. You won't be disappointed as long as you have a quality gunsmith doing the work.

Also, Todd, you forgot to add a bottom metal assembly, a stock, and about $500-1000 for gunsmithing fees (what those big-time smiths charge).

A BUILT 700 will cost MORE than a Remage style custom build and is still not worth what the custom is.

 

[MudRunner2005]

He inferred he was keeping stock so I added no stock or bottom metal.
Also the Remage will have a $0 smith charge unless he can't use a No-go gauge.
Yes some stock actions will shoot all day long with a custom. All of my Savages do at 1k, however I can't sell one of my Savages for crap and yet I could turn a custom action gun for a good % of what I have in it.

Retail value is only important to people who intend to sell... I am not one of those people. I just buy/build another one when I want something different, and keep the rest stuffed in a safe for when I want to shoot them later.

Also, GetReel, I agree with the other folks on the slow twist. A 1:7 or 1:8 would let you shoot the heavies.

 

[MudRunner2005]

A BUILT 700 will cost MORE than a Remage style custom build and is still not worth what the custom is.

I hate barrel nuts on bolt-actions. Personally, I prefer a standard Remington torque-fit style. Also, with a pinned recoil lug, he can have a switch barrel, and not have to use the nut, and it will be just as cheap as the "rem-age" style...But easier to swap calibers, because you have your smith fit and headspace multiple barrels at the same time as you have it built and have the lug pinned. So all you need is an action wrench and some soft-jaws for your vise. Quick and simple, and no need to headspace overtime, because the barrel has already been headspaced when the chamber and threads were cut.

 

[MudRunner2005]

I wondered on the twist as well. A 22-250AI running heavy VLDs would be a more sensible choice unless the wind never blows where you live.

Agreed. Go with a 26" .22-250 AI with a fast twist and shoot the heavy Berger VLD's or Hybrids.

 

[GetReel]

Curious why such a slow twist?

I'd scratch the fluting, you won't save as much weight as you think.. its more cosmetic. SO basically rebarrel, true, knob, and paint. All in all it should be sub $1000. Or make it a prefit remage and save quite a bit more.

I talked with LRI and that's what they recommended. My intentions are to shoot 50-55gr because when I take it varmint hunting, I don't ruin the pelt as bad.

And I want the fluting because I want to scrap weight where I can (even though it isn't a lot), and because I like the looks of it.

Keep in mind, this isn't supposed to be a 1k yrd gun.

I wondered on the twist as well. A 22-250AI running heavy VLDs would be a more sensible choice unless the wind never blows where you live.

I don't want an AI... and don't want to run the heaviest bullet I can.

Retail value is only important to people who intend to sell... I am not one of those people. I just buy/build another one when I want something different, and keep the rest stuffed in a safe for when I want to shoot them later.

Also, GetReel, I agree with the other folks on the slow twist. A 1:7 or 1:8 would let you shoot the heavies.

really don't care about resale value, I want this rifle for me... not someone else in the future.
Twist rate... not concerned about the "heavies"

I hate barrel nuts on bolt-actions. Personally, I prefer a standard Remington torque-fit style. Also, with a pinned recoil lug, he can have a switch barrel, and not have to use the nut, and it will be just as cheap as the "rem-age" style...But easier to swap calibers, because you have your smith fit and headspace multiple barrels at the same time as you have it built and have the lug pinned. So all you need is an action wrench and some soft-jaws for your vise. Quick and simple, and no need to headspace overtime, because the barrel has already been headspaced when the chamber and threads were cut.

I really have no idea what you guys mean by "remage" or "barrel nuts"

Agreed. Go with a 26" .22-250 AI with a fast twist and shoot the heavy Berger VLD's or Hybrids.

I want a short barrel so when I go in the field it isn't a mile long gun.. (my suppressor will add another 8")


I think I answered most of the comments/concerns/questions.

I have zero intensions of "swapping" barrels for different calibers or twists or bullet weights.

I am not a know-it-all by any means.... there is an insane amount I don't know so pardon my ignorance.

I just am going off of what I have asked some gunsmiths and what I try learning about. And please... If I am on a wrong path... tell me!!

I don't want a "wild-cat" cartridge, never know when I may need to buy store ammo.

I think I will want a different stock in the future as well, just not at the moment.

Thanks again for all the input/advice so far!

 

[toddc]

I hate barrel nuts on bolt-actions. Personally, I prefer a standard Remington torque-fit style. Also, with a pinned recoil lug, he can have a switch barrel, and not have to use the nut, and it will be just as cheap as the "rem-age" style...But easier to swap calibers, because you have your smith fit and headspace multiple barrels at the same time as you have it built and have the lug pinned. So all you need is an action wrench and some soft-jaws for your vise. Quick and simple, and no need to headspace overtime, because the barrel has already been headspaced when the chamber and threads were cut.

Nuts are ugly according to most men. However a nut build is a LOT less $$$ than having a smith set headspace for a switch barrel.
I also HATE relying on a smith for anything. Their time management skills are directly inverse to their smithing abilities.
The OP has a target budget set at $1500. A Remage style build using his stock and bottom metal and a custom action is achievable. A build a smith has to touch will barely get there, take months if not yrs to complete and will have less potential than owning a REAL action. A Remage build on his current action could be done under $500.
The whole idea with a Remage or Savage is to get away from the SMITH. Saves time, money and makes it YOURS. Nuts are ugly but without them none of us would be here and I would pay 3 times more and wait 10 times longer for my guns.

 

[toddc]

I talked with LRI and that's what they recommended. My intentions are to shoot 50-55gr because when I take it varmint hunting, I don't ruin the pelt as bad.

And I want the fluting because I want to scrap weight where I can (even though it isn't a lot), and because I like the looks of it.

Keep in mind, this isn't supposed to be a 1k yrd gun.



I don't want an AI... and don't want to run the heaviest bullet I can.



really don't care about resale value, I want this rifle for me... not someone else in the future.
Twist rate... not concerned about the "heavies"



I really have no idea what you guys mean by "remage" or "barrel nuts"



I want a short barrel so when I go in the field it isn't a mile long gun.. (my suppressor will add another 8")


I think I answered most of the comments/concerns/questions.

I am not a know-it-all by any means.... there is an insane amount I don't know so pardon my ignorance.

I just am going off of what I have asked some gunsmiths and what I try learning about. And please... If I am on a wrong path... tell me!!

I don't want a "wild-cat" cartridge, never know when I may need to buy store ammo.

I think I will want a different stock in the future as well, just not at the moment.

Thanks again for all the input/advice so far!

An AI can use factory ammo.
The faster twist won't stop or hinder 55 gr usage and yet will allow you to use heavies if needed.
Resale may not matter RIGHT NOW but no one has a crystal ball that will tell you what you will want in 5 yrs.
A Remage or barrel nut allows you to install the barrel yourself, you can run different calibers etc. Also you don't have to rely on a smith for working on it.
You could put on a Remage barrel and be shooting under $500 on your action.