Got a new rifle, sending it back to the factory

First amendment really doesn't apply to a privately owned site. You waive it when you agree to the terms and conditions...The same as tracking your cell phone
it's in those 30 pages of fine print...
. Who in there right mind is going to read every rule in the book,when common sense over rules and dictates ones right.
 
Yeah, that's what everyone thinks until the EPA fines you $10000 a day for breaking a rule that you didn't know existed(because no one knew it existed, they just made it up)
Common sense is no excuse under the law unfortunately.
PS...these are real examples...just avoiding the tedium of didactic details.
 
Wow, Who would have thought that this site is run by either a Democrats or people who are receiving hush money from Ruger firearms or other manufactures. I don't know about the rest of the members on this site but my freedom is not up for negotiations. I'm outta here........end
 
I have a question: Reading the comment on rule 7 from Cohunt, I am a little confused. I am also somewhat new time-wise to the forum - but if I have an issue, IMHO this a place to go to get help or resolve it. Many posts I read concern someone with an issue looking for inputs trying to resolve it. ANY firearm you have an issue with is going to have the Manufacturers name listed to get those who know or have that firearm or similar to help. SO, How would you start on the forum?? "Help, my (XYZ model ABC) rifle sucks , can someone help me fix I?" Or " This (XYZ Model ABC) rifle I got from (Manufacturer Name) shoots like a piece of mud, what do I do besides send it back?" For instance, I actually had a scope that internally fell a part as I was shooting a match, and I seriously did have a target in the final round that looked I did use a shotgun. I contacted the manufacturer who told me to send it in. After a few days called and asked if they had fixed it or found out what the problem was. The answer: We are just sending you a brand new scope. Would I mention the name of the company or model to see if I was alone in my experience or what? Again, I am looking for information/guidance so I do not manage to get myself accidentally banned due to something I am not fully aware of.
 
I agree, but several members have done that recently, and threads were deleted or they were banned. I am confused on rule 7. I know its intent, not to air dirty laundry or turn it into a he said / she said, but if something is crap people should know.

There are a lot of data points on the forum for the ruger americans. The vast majority are positive. My little bros ruger american predator in 6.5G shoots moa to a little under sub moa consistently. But it is still important that the OPs complaint be posted so forum members get good information on both sides of the table to make an informed decision.

OP, my experience with ruger is that its either awesome, or its a turd. If its a turd, good luck with their customer service. I had a Ruger SR556 that would group minute of barn door. Sent it back to ruger, they replaced the entire upper, and it group minute of door. lol

Sent it back a third time, they sent it back saying there was nothing wrong with it. I sold it to my gun shop after they said they didnt care about its accuracy problems and were more than happy to buy it. But with that said that was one bad expereince. Their RA rifles, 10/22s, and revolvers have all served me well. I hope your issue is resolved and you get to enjoy your rifle.
I can't agree more. I feel it's our duty to let as many people as possible know if we are experiencing problems with ANY NEW products related to our fraternity of hunters and shooters! I thought the whole point of this forum was to help each other. And yes I have heard great things about the low priced Ruger Americans and a thousand other products but is it only fair and welcome to give praise? Let's continue to stay honest....but true experiences both good and bad should get equal commitment otherwise where is the freedom of speech? On that note to correct myself here....we should give the manufacturer a chance to make it right first..but if they fail us....then everyone should know....United we Stand!
 
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I always have a hard time finding it as well.

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I was shooting somewhere around 4 to 5 inch 3 shot groups at 100, bad even for a bad rifle in my experience. Some of that I know was me. No doubt in my mind about that. I did check everything that could have come loose.

I know Ruger puts out a quality product and will fix or replace it. I am by no means demeaning them, just this one that seems to have gotten through quality control.

I think I can put some of my accuracy problems down to the very flexible stock foteend and using my bully bag as a rest. So I think once I get it back and do something different I will have a different result. I was having a similar issue with the axis when I started shooting it. I did swap my rings out on the axis, and put it on a bipod and brought those groups right down. I put the rings I took off the axis on the Ruger. I think I am going to get some more new rings for it and get rid of that particular set. That was a vertical split ring set. I wonder in the back of my head if that would effect things.

I had similar groupings from custom 338 LM rifle. When all else failed, I sent it to my current smith. It turns out the problem with that rifle was the crown was done poorly. He re-crowned the barrel and Voila! 1/2 MOA groups (one hole groups because the bullet diameter is large). I know use that rifle to shoot steel at one mile.

I've had that same smith build several rifles for me. One thing he does is check the barrel with a borescope BEFORE chambering the barrel. He looks for tool marks in the barrel that have not been removed with lapping. I recently built a 300 RUM with a Proof Research barrel. My smith did the same inspection before building the rifle. He told me that some of Proof's initial barrels had tool marks. This rifle is the best shooting rifle I have ever owned. My smith said he has not had a bad barrel from Proof in years and all good barrel manufacturers should be able to produce barrels without tool marks.

My point is that if the rest of your rifle set up appears to be good and you are still shooting 3" to 5" groups, it may be the barrel. The only time I've had groups that were that big that were not barrel related was when my scope rail was coming loose. The inability to feed is annoying but that is likely not the accuracy problem.
 
Once I get every thing sorted out with the feeding I thing I can predict some lock tire and JBweld in the future for this piece. I think it still has a lot of potential. I'm not planning on giving up on it by any means. In fact I think I may get another in .308 but I think I am going to get the go wild version, I really like the way it looks.
 
Ruger is one of the best at taking care of problems.
Part of my current job in a LGS is to handle the warranty & repair process for the store & customers, and dealing with Ruger is a blessing compared to some of the other's.
If you cannot find an obvious , easy to fix issue, (and I saw a boat load of good suggestions here), call their customer service people.
If it is a warranty issue, they will email a shipping label for you to return it to them. Normally about a 2wk process, sometimes more, sometimes less.
 
Quite frustrating really.
I got the Ruger American Predator in 6.5 Creedmore, AICS patern mag, mounted up and bore sighted the scope. Right off the bat, fail to feed. Every single round. Ok, no problem. I put 30 rounds through it at 25 and finally got something resembling a group. Moved to 100, and shotguned the target. 21 rounds later I gave up. I put 3 rounds of the same ammo through my axis and got a 1 inch group.

On later examination I find that as a round is stripped from the magazine it is nosing into the barrel steel right under the chamber. Every single round. I tried a new magpul mag and it did the same thing. So not a mag issue. So now it gets to go back to Ruger. I have never had to do that before.

I decided that I am going to give the 130 SGK hollow points a try as my reloaded round for both rifles.

Fun times.
I have been down that road myself recently.. I bought a Savage MSR15 long range in .224 Valkyrie. Shortly after I also bought a Ruger Hawkeye Long Range Target in 6.5 PRC. T took both to the range to zero them in. Tha Savage worked fine with both Federal Eagle FMJ and Federal Premium. When it came to the Hornady ELD Match, it balked. The action refused to cycle. Then I tried the Ruger. The bolt would not open no matter what. So, in the space of one day I had to send both back to the factory. Savage said it was a gas block issue on theirs, Ruger didn't say anything but the bolt works fine now. To say the least, this was a frustrating time!! I haven't been able to get back to the range yet, but hope to soon.
 
1st - ditch the vertical split rings. They are notorious for interfering with scopes and as you point out where the problem in your last rifle yet installed them here. Save yourself time and money and throw them in the trash.

2nd - Check for stock clearance, especially when loading the forend with pressure. Change the stock to one of a growing number to options from Boyds, Magpul, Stocky, or other

3rd - AICS magazines are manufactured for Accuracy International push-feed rifles in .308. If this is not your rifle or caliber, magazine adjustments are to be expected. If a Ruger magazine designed for the rifle gave you problems then I would certainly address the issue with Ruger.

It is standard to adjust the lips of the AICS magazines to properly present a specific cartridge in correct alignment for the bolt face and chamber. Several companies make tools for this including MPA or you can make one yourself. Personally I use a set if smooth jaw parallel pliers and a case protector sheet from Rolex to avoid excess cosmetic issues.

The lips of the magazine need to far enough apart to present the base of the cartridge high enough for the bolt to strip it from the magazine.

The lips should NOT be parallel. The front of the lips should be spread farther apart than the back to present the cartridge at an upward angle towards the chamber. This avoids the nose diving you are describing.

The lips should not have kinks in the bends.

The lips should not be so open as to allow the cartridge to pop out the top.

The lips clear the bolt body under use.

These are common, normal adjustments in PRS where these magazines dominate in a wide variety of actions and stocks.

Hope this helps.

Magazine height in the stock was mentioned earlier and could be part/all of the problem. That should be easy to check.
In 1911s, a bullet diving into the feed ramp is caused by tight magazine lips. Conversely, loose lips not only sink ships but cause live-round stove pipes. Rifle rounds are much longer, but tight lips could contribute to poor feeding.
 
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