Good group for deer hunting?

I kind of skimmed so if someone else already said so, my bad. You have a 10" kill zone to kill the deer efficiently. As long as you can consistently hit a paper plate from your stand you are in good shape.

Steve
 
So, just a refresher. I am running a vortex optics crossfire II 3-9x40 with the dead hold BDC reticle. I told my local gun store to instal bases and rings to the gun. They also boresighted it. They told me they applied blue locktite to the mounts but not on any of the screws on the rings. I will check tightness on the screws if I can find a stupid star bit for the screwdriver!! Then, if tight idk what to do. I have taken off the stock from the receiver. When I replaced I applied pressure on the barrel pushing the recoil back to hopefully be properly seated. I then tightened the two action screws to 30 in lbs and tighter the stock screw to firm tight. Hopefully this helps. After all this I'm going to try trophy coppers, dual bonds and partition golds. If none of those come close I'm going to send the gun back and hopefully get it back soon enough to re-sight it in before deer season. If they claim it's nothing well I guess I'm going to either try 3" loads or just have someone else shoot and see how much better they can do compared to me to see if it is just myself. If those don't work im not going to invest more because I will honestly have close to $1000 into it. And will be most likely selling it.
 
Forget grouping for a minute, and think about the point of impact of your first shot, and how it relates to your aiming point, that's really all you have to resolve. If you can come back each day, and put the first one where you want is what counts.
 
Ok so I went to the place I bought it at, cabin fever sporting goods out of Vitoria, MN. Although we have done business with them for many years they were non hesitant about cycling out my gun based on my concerns. They also agreed that the rings had come loose. They took the scope out of the rings and the rings off the mounts. They already applied the locktite to the screws on the mounts that thread into the receiver. But none of the other screws. So, they then applied blue locktite to the remaining screws. After that they checked vertical alighnment and re bore sighted. Then they tightened the two action screws up to firm snug. The screws for the scope on the other hand where all torqued down to 20 in lbs. the reason they didn't do a specific inch pound rating on the actions screws is because they didn't have the proper size bit for it. Also, they did NOT put locktite on the action screws. I don't know if this is good or bad. All I know is that I can start fresh and don't have to worry about the scope coming loose and then can narrow it down to myself or the ammo.
 
HARPERC said:
Forget grouping for a minute, and think about the point of impact of your first shot, and how it relates to your aiming point, that's really all you have to resolve. If you can come back each day, and put the first one where you want is what counts.
Click to expand...

Yep, that's why I noted ...

FEENIX said:
, like others have noted, practice, practice, practice ... and make your first shot counts. :D
Click to expand...
 
MNBuck said:
They already applied the locktite to the screws on the mounts that thread into the receiver. But none of the other screws. So, they then applied blue locktite to the remaining screws. After that they checked vertical alighnment and re bore sighted. Then they tightened the two action screws up to firm snug. The screws for the scope on the other hand where all torqued down to 20 in lbs. the reason they didn't do a specific inch pound rating on the actions screws is because they didn't have the proper size bit for it. Also, they did NOT put locktite on the action screws.
Click to expand...

Personally I stopped using Loctite on most of my scope base and ring screws. When properly torqued and sequence I just don't have them loosen up.

For steel bases I will use 30 or 35 in-lb of torque. Leupold states 30 in their directions, and quality bases don't seem to have any problem with 35. Steel rings get 25 in-lb, aluminum ones get 20.
Plastic stocks depend on the type, as some will deform over 20 in-lb; 25 or 30 is common. Wood stocks get 35 in-lbs, Bell & Carlson and similar get 55 in-lb.

I also don't Loctite action screws, but if I did would not use anything other than the removable 222 low strength Loctite.

Look into a FAT wrench from Wheeler so you can do torquing yourself. They aren't that expensive, and then you gain control over the process yourself.
 
Dr. Vette said:
Personally I stopped using Loctite on most of my scope base and ring screws. When properly torqued and sequence I just don't have them loosen up.
Click to expand...

I agree with everything you said. The screws really shouldn't loosen up. But a tube of blue loctite will last forever, it's so cheap, why not put a drop on the screw threads?

I used to have a love/hate relationship with loctite. I loved how well it worked but hated needing to take the scope back off at a later date.

But then I discovered the easiest way to take out screws that have been loctited. Just hold a soldering iron on the screw or allen head for 30 seconds. They will come out like they never had loctite on them. Actually stumbled on that idea from a RC car forum.


PS - Dr Vette, congrats on living in the 2nd Happiest place in America - Holland, Michigan :)
 
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