glass bedding

[Guest]

Last fall I bought a new win model 70 compact in 308. I got this gun to carry long distances or for packing in hunts. I simply love this gun, but no matter what ammo Ive tried I can't get the gun to shoot under 1.25"! The only thing I've done so far was to have the trigger lightened to 3lbs. My next thought is to try bedding it. So my question is how hard is this to do yourself? Is this something I should try myself? I feel that I would be capable, but don't know where to start. Oh, and I tried the dollar under the barrel and it only goes about 3-4" up the barrle from the tip of the stock. Any thought would be nice thanks!

[ 03-13-2003: Message edited by: Bubb ]

 

[Tim Behle]

I've done a few of my own now using either JB Weld, or the Brownell's Accurglass kit. The Brownell's kits was the easiest, and I got the best results with it.

It's not a hard thing to do, but for your first time, it is nice to find someone who has done it a few times to walk you through the process.

I did my M70 last month. I was amazed at how much easier it now is to find an accurate load for it. It's shoots most everything I've given it pretty good now.

 

[Stevyrob]

Bub,
What Tim said about watching someone else do at least one rifle first is good advice, but at the same time it is not that hard as long as you take your time in preperation. Read as much information as you can before you start.It is no good just bedding the action if you haven't floated the barrel. I use "Brownells Steel Bed" and have found it to be the Best.You can go to Brownells web site and download the instructions in PDF format and have a read first, then make up your mind.Is Bedding and floating worth doing? It definitely is.Recently I purchased a Secondhand Sako .243 in very good condition, no matter what load I tried it would not shoot under 1.5 moa.So I floated the barrel and then bedded it, the thing shoots sub .5 moa for the first 3 shots. Not bad for a sporter. I did the same process with my Sako .222 about 5 years ago it shoots the same for the first 5. I think it can only help!!!!!!!

 

[Brent]

Bubb,

My sons 70 Compact shoots Federal 165gr Gameking SP extremely well.

They come with a pressure point on the forend, I got rid of it on his because he uses a bipod and vibrations would be consistant if it touched.

I've not bedded his yet but I will this summer, hot glue don't cut it! Take it to a gunsmith that will let you watch him do the first one, or a friend that can show you the basics. Not much to it, but you do need to know a few thing for sure or it might be a permanent stock! Watching someone will teach you in leaps and bounds.

I'll use "Grey" Marine Tex from Brownells when I do his. It's pretty stiff stuff, putty like, but it's being used and recommended by McMillan and many more now.

Good luck.

I have some other load data if you're interested, email me.

 

[Jake in NC]

...There's a few good articles over at the GoGo Varmint Go message board "Tech Section" on bedding.. 'Might be worth a read.. JiNC

GGVGMB

 

[*WyoWhisper*]

All these guys are pretty on the money .. I couldn't have covered it better...

I just did a Mod 70 like yours for a friend.. same thing shot "patterns" not groups.. I bedded it .. free plaoted the barrel and with factory sivler tips... shot about 3/4" groups... he's now workin' on handloads...

Click on Jakes link.. good info there!!

 

[Ian M]

I am about to bed several stocks with about every bedding compound on the market so appreciate this info. Also going to do a variety of bedding procedures. Will keep you guys informed as to what does what.

 

[Mysticplayer]

Bed that action and free float that barrel. It will make a big improvement. I like to bed under the first 1" to 1 1/2" of barrel to eliminate any strain on the reciever.

Make sure you bed the full length of the receiver. If the bedding is done correctly, there should be no movement when the action screws are tightened or loosened.

I use the two part steel epoxies you find at hardware stores - Devcon, Lepages. They work very well and easy to dispense. Use a good release agent like PVA.

It is an easy process, just make sure you plug any holes that could lock the action in place. I like to remove the action just when the epoxy has gotten hard, then reassemble. This ensure that if I have made any mistakes, I can get the action/stock apart and clean things up. I let the bedding cure for at least 24hrs before final disassembly.

Don't tighten the action screws too much when bedding. You don't want to squish out the epoxy. About 1/2 turn from full tight is correct.

Jerry

 

[Guest]

Thanks for all the info. I think for this first one I will take to a smith. Before I try it on any good guns I'll bed my old marlin 22. first!

 

[Triple BB]

Also, it ain't the end of the world if you botch it up. I've done several guns. My first one turned out like crap. I took a Dremel tool and removed a lot of the bedding material. I then went back and did it over. The second time turned out very nice.

 

[ScottinPa]

Did my first bedding job about a month ago. Search the different forums for info. I used Brownells Acraglas and read the instructions a couple of times. Also, Mark Bansner's wesite has some good info (www.bansnersrifle.com). Where are you in Potter (I assume in PA)? I go up to Costello a few times a year. Maybe we can meet and I can show you what I've done and how I did it. One must have tip: use plenty of release agent. I've used both the supplied release agent and paste wax. I think the wax is better and one can will last forever.

[ 04-02-2003: Message edited by: ScottinPa ]

 

[Mountain Man]

Scott- Costello??? thats 5 minutes down the road. what do you go there for?

 

[ScottinPa]

Dad-in-law has a camp in Young's Hollow. We go up to vacation/hunt/get mellow in Costello.