Glass bed Accumark?

HoytemanPA

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Joined
Dec 16, 2001
Messages
232
Location
Pennsylvania
Do I glass bed it or fit it to the aluminum bedding block?
I have been working with this rifle and I am finding some sweet spots but.... the first shot is a flyer 3-4" away, at 200, usually low, before it will group. I could live with the third shot being a flyer but the first? Nope that won't work.

The action screws were torqued, barrel is free floated etc. but it seems that something is still tightening up after the first shot.
It seems to be temperature related and not clean vs dirty issue. I wait five to 10 minutes between shots and they will group well but if I wait an hour or better, another flier happens before it settles out again.

The stock has a molded in aluminum bedding block, I relieved some high spots on this and have fairly even contact now. I bedded the front and sides of the recoil lug as it could move laterally with slightly loosening the front screw. I am waiting for the bedding to set as we speak. Will this be enough or should I go ahead and grind down the top of the aluminum bed and glass it and the rear of the recoil lug? I left it as I thought it was probably stronger than the bedding compound but I am not certain that the rear of the recoil lug is making uniform contact.
If I do this will it adhere to the aluminum well? Or will it crush with 30-378 recoil?
Any experience out there with these?
Thanks HPA
 

DANTEC

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Joined
Jul 6, 2002
Messages
390
Location
France
it is closely imossible except on very costly tools parts to get perfect contact on all surfaces in a 2 axis or 3 axis mecanical system

bedding is the most esay way to get more than 98% of contact

first aera to bed is the rear of the recoil lug because your bedding block is not perfect square and your recoil lug no prefect square too so contact with bedding block can touch before on one side and create a force during the recoil .

bedding compound as Marine Text use by MacMillan and lot of BR shooter is very strong in compression , just take care to have a minimum thickness of bedding ( 0.05 inch ) and make a rought filling of your aluminium block to help the bedding to get contact with aluminium and that work fine

better is get rear contact and to let front of the recoil with a little gap to help to remove the barreled action and don't lock the action by the bedding following the barrel axis .

you can bed the complete action because you block beeding axis is perhaps wrong with your stock axis ( few thousand of inch is enought ) that can help you to get good group .


Good shooting and enjoy real accurate rifle .

DAN TEC
 

DANTEC

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Joined
Jul 6, 2002
Messages
390
Location
France
last point

check if your action screws don't touch in bedding block because if that true screw became your recoil lug and that not good at all .

good shooting

DAN TECand
 

CAM

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Joined
Jan 2, 2002
Messages
385
Location
Utah
Hoyteman
I had a very bad ridge under the action just in back of the recoil lug. with the first shot it was trying to jump-up on the aluminum block. I machined this off and glass beaded just like you ( front and sides ) I think DANTEC has the best answer to "BEAD THE BACK OF THE RECOIL LUG" This makes more sense. I thought this aluminum/Kevlar stock was the cats meow untill I had one! They are mass produced and are no better than a regular stock with out some extra work. The area around the recoil lug was huge! I beaded the sides and the front and 2" to 3" down the barrel. I am NO expert but after I free floated my barrel all the way to the action the front screw tension was controlling everything. and I even broke the screw once. that is why I beaded the first 3" of the barrel. To make a long story short I ordered a laminated stock, then figured I better get a longer barrel, no need to tear apart a good gun just for the action so I have bought a action! just waiting for the new rifle to be completed. Still have my accumark just can't get into tinkering with it with a new gun on the way. GOOD LUCK and let us know what you find out.
 

HoytemanPA

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Joined
Dec 16, 2001
Messages
232
Location
Pennsylvania
Thank you for the info. Hopefully the glass will have a bit more memory and bounce back some as well. Mine too had the top edge of the lug side of the bedding block peened up and over and smashed on top of the bedding block. Also, even with the front bedding in place now tightening the front action screw causes the rear to torque up a bit. I'm just going to go and grind it up, bed the whole action and be done with it. If I screw it up I guess it'll be a good excuse for one of those top shelf stocks, .....and action, and barrel. hmmmm
Thanks again guys,
HPA
 

HoytemanPA

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 16, 2001
Messages
232
Location
Pennsylvania
Update. Thanks Dan Tec for the reassurance that I had more to gain than lose by grinding it up and bedding the action. I just wish I had done it 3 pounds of powder ago. I am very happy to report that I can either let the barrel cool or shoot a string, I've only dared up to 5 at once with as hot as it gets.
My best so far since bedding was with some RL25 that I was just going to shoot up to get rid of the can. I got 6 into 2.25 at 300, then rounds 7 and 8 were an inch and a half to the right of the group. I think wind maybe.
I've gotten my final load for the 220mk's narrowed down to 2. But I just bought a box of 200's to try so here we go again. It's taken 9 months to get this far and probably by Christmas I'll need one of those long barrels that Darrel is always talking about, but it sure is fun.
 

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