Getting in the revolver game

[jfloyd]

I'm slowly switching out scopes for red dots in my handguns. Much quicker acquisition for the heavy woods I handgun hunt in. I also am switching to heavy hard cast lead over the XTP Hornady Bullets. I've had my best results with IMR 4227 in 44 mag. Whatever you choose, once you get comfortable with the gun itself, get to shooting the hot/heavy stuff as soon as you can. Develop your technique and recoil management and practice shooting from actual hunting positions with a shooting stick and freehand. Training off a bench and bag is pointless unless you can tote them with you in the woods.

Jon

 

[WildBillG]

jfloyd how do you use a pisol with shooting sticks and does it change the point of impact. I have the idea you just lay the lug under the barrel in the crotch of the sticks.

 

[yorke-1]

I rest the frame of the gun right in front of the trigger guard on the shooting sticks. That lets me pull the sticks tight to the gun while pushing forward. It's very stable but it does change the point of impact for me.

 

[WildBillG]

I believe our pistols are capable of way better accuracy then we can give them.

 

[shootski]

Long Range Revolver Great Topic! I shoot S&W model 29 in .44 mag as well as a single shot .58 cal Quackenbush Big Bore Air Pistol. The S&W is my backup when hunting with the bb gun.
I would recommend that you dry fire that revolver every day if at all possible. When you go to the range dry fire first then shoot .44 Special first. Switch to your .44 mag hunting loads and shoot no more than you can feel good about. Switch back to .44 Special then some more dry fire. Why? To keep THE FLINCH MONSTER at Bay. It has worked for me for fifty-six years.

Stalk closer!

 

[entoptics]

I would recommend that you dry fire that revolver every day if at all possible. When you go to the range dry fire first then shoot .44 Special first. Switch to your .44 mag hunting loads and shoot no more than you can feel good about. Switch back to .44 Special then some more dry fire. Why? To keep THE FLINCH MONSTER at Bay. It has worked for me for fifty-six years.

It's also good idea to start each range session by putting in 2-3 live rounds in, and 3-4 empty brass. Close your eyes and spin the cylinder. Close it up, and play flinch roulette. If you twitch on the empties, you're twitching on the fulls...

I've never shot with anyone who can print smaller groups with magnum handguns than me, and I think it's 100% because of the above, as I'm not the greatest pistol shot. It's just that everyone else will eventually tug some low left during a 6 shot string with a 4 3/4" 454 Casull (or even a 357 mag).

Flinch resistance is also a perishable skill, so practice it as often as you can.

Why not over come it, as it hurts the same whether you flinch or not...

I rest the frame of the gun right in front of the trigger guard on the shooting sticks. That lets me pull the sticks tight to the gun while pushing forward. It's very stable but it does change the point of impact for me.

No matter how you rest a magnum revolver, be sure to keep your squishy little fingers well behind the cylinder gap! Also, be prepared to replace whatever you're resting it on periodically, as it will get scorched.

 

[jfloyd]

jfloyd how do you use a pisol with shooting sticks and does it change the point of impact. I have the idea you just lay the lug under the barrel in the crotch of the sticks.

If I'm on the ground I use a double hand grip with a tripod style shooting stick like a Primos trigger stick. Basically a freehand grip with the barrel resting on the crotch as close as possible to the frame. From a stand I use a one hand grip and load the stick into myself but keep the off hand low on the stick to keep it away from any cylinder blast. I've not noted any POI changes with either.

 

[Bigeclipse]

I've had the best accuracy in my 8 3/8" SW 629 DX and 4 5/8" SBH with max loads of H110/W296 (literally the same powder) and Hornady XTPs. From a steady rest, both pistols will print right around an inch at 25 yds. The Smith will send a 180 XTP at ~1900 fps and the 240 XTP at ~1450 fps. The Ruger will send them at 1750 and 1350 respectively. I don't think I'd use the 180 XTP for hunting, but it's about the best medicine I've seen for milk jugs and fruit. I've caught dozens of magnum bullets in water and wetpack, and the 240 XTP is a real beast. Good frontal expansion makes fist sized cavities 3-4" into wetpack, but there's the big shank left to drive them 16-20" deep. They don't go as deep as hard cast WFN bullets, but I'm pretty sure they'll pass through anything but the biggest critters (grizzly, buffalo, etc). Going much above a 240 in the 44 mag will really start eating up case volume, so I find them to be the best compromise of weight and speed.

The Speer Deep Curl also has textbook performance in wet pack, but I've never been able to get them to shoot as good as the XTP.

Regarding shooting skills, as mentioned, get lots of practice with what you hunt with. POI shift with different bullets can be SUBSTANTIAL in handguns. The two aforementioned XTPs print several inches different, even at 15 yds, which turns into feet at 75-100 yds. The lighter bullets actually print lower, which I believe is because they exit the barrel sooner during the muzzle rise under recoil.

I recently installed a Vortex Venom on my 454 Casull, and have another to put on the SW 629. The aiming precision and speed is outstanding, but finding the dot on presentation can be a bit difficult, so you'll want to practice a lot to get the muscle memory ingrained (dry fire in your man cave is great). Optics on revolvers sit way above irons, and if you're used to irons, you'll find yourself coming in low as you bring the pistol up, then hunting for the dot. Having a VERY tall front sight installed helps, as it draws your eye to the correct height as you lift the gun.

Good luck, and have fun. Big revolvers are sweet!

View attachment 174501

Just an FYI, I was given 3 boxes of 180 XTPs for free. I have been using them the past few years on deer hunts and they have worked just fine but I shoot iron sites so my ranges have been 25 to maybe out to 50 yards (cant remember to be honest). This is out of a 5inch 629 as an fyi. I did not get pass throughs but they have no issue penetrating shoulder and make it to vitals so don't be afraid to use them on hunts if that is all you got. I would definitely feel better with 200+grain bullets though but I couldn't pass up free ammo!

 

[Rich Coyle]

Talk about penetration.... I shot through 2' of rotten log to take a buck. The lungs were filled with wood chips. A 260 grain Freedom Arms at 1,925 feet per second will out penetrate a 7mm 175 Partition at 3,150 feet per second.

I used to have a 7STW.

 

[jfloyd]

When you're shooting 44 caliber or bigger, at the very least you get a big hole without expansion. I Shoot a 360 grain hard cast out of my 454C. I have duplicated the Buffalo Bore "Bear Load" and I trust them on that! I'm pretty sure you can shoot though a stand pines and still kill a bear on the other side. I heard they have documentation of running that bullet the full length of a grizzly and still getting full pass through. That's multiple feet of tissue without hitting any bone! I don't think any jacketed Bullet can pull that off with the exception of the FMJ. Don't discount the old lead Bullet, it's killed a pile of animals. I always shoot gas checks in all magnum handguns. Just for insurance on getting gas cutting at the base of the Bullet. Anyway, I'm liking lead more and more is the bottom line.

 

[WildBillG]

Where would you place the Barnes XPB bullets jfloyd. Are they like a hard cast or a jacketed bullet or are they different all together.

 

[jfloyd]

I personally would put them some where in between. Same argument as if you compared a Barnes bullet in a rifle. It's lighter so you get the speed but it sheds energy quickly so you loose some penetration but you don't shed weight like many jacketed Bullets do.

 

[MtPockets]

I second the dry fire advice.
I don't know if they still make them, but Speer (I think) used to make plastic cases that used just a primer to propel a plastic "bullet". I used them a LOT when I bought my first handgun 30 some years ago. It really helped with getting used to the trigger without the cost or the recoil.
The other thing I liked (and wish I could find again) was that Ruger had replacement sights for the Redhawks that were a gold bead front sight with a V notch rear.
For shooting with iron sights, that helped a TON!
I don't remember the load, but 296 was my go-to powder behind a 240 grain SJHP (Remington, IIRC).

Good luck!