Getting back into it

[E4T]

gun)I have a savage 110 action in 7mm rem mag that I would like to work up into a reasonably good long range weapon. I will be handloading when I am done and looking to finish with a premium bullet in the 160 to 180 grain range. I have been out of this for a very long time so any help getting up to speed would be greatly appreciated. To start with I am trying to dicide on a good barrel, manufacturer, steel, twist etc. At this point I am leaning towards Krieger in SS at 1.25' dia and 29" finished length, fluted and flip flopping on twist between the manuf recomended 1:9.25 up to 1:8. Any pearls on any of this would be greatly appreciated

 

[rscott5028]

I don't think you can go wrong with Kreiger. I have one on my 6.5-284 and it's very accurate. I bought the barrel with over 800rds down it and did a setback for my first rebarrel not wanting to ruin a high dollar barrel. I was very pleased.

My 7mm RM Sendero with a factory barrel stabilizes the 180g Bergers just fine from a 1:9.25" twist.

I hate slow twist barrels. But, I don't see any reason to go faster than 1:9.25 unless you have a particularly long/heavy bullet.

-- richard

 

[liltank]

Sounds like a winning combination to me. I would stay on the safe side and go straight 1:9. I really like the Savage and it ease of smithing done by penny pincher like myself. I use a Lothar Walther barrel on my Savage. It has a harder SS than anything produced in the U.S. It comes from Germany. I can hold a consistent .25 to .5 MOA depending on the wind. It cleans up nice after break in. I would suggest looking into a Stockade Stock. He specializes in Savage actions and making stocks to fit them. I can tell you from experience they are really nice stocks. EGW makes a really nice one piece base. Make sure you spend some money on glass.

Tank

 

[E4T]

Thanks for the input and info. I will check out both companies. I have a couple other questions... Im sure more than a couple but for now. If I go with a barrel countour #11 I can get the length on the barell I want without paying extra. Clearly mass is good for accuracy but what can I expect in the difference between that and say a #8 contour where the muzzle diam is .820 rather than an inch, with respect to accuracy. The weight reduction would be a big deal for most people if they plan to hunt with it... and I will... but I am the guy who carried the M60 rather than the M16A2 because I wanted the firepower, weight or not. I am looking to add mass to my weapon but I am trying to find that point where we reach the diminishing returns. Also, this action is pre acutrigger so I had some trigger work done right after I bought it but nothing else done to the action. Other than glass bedding and pillering, what might I need to be researching or considering with regard to the action I already have. I have noticed that fluting on the bolt for example seems to be an increasingly popular thing. I do really appreciate all the wisdom shared.

 

[liltank]

When your building a heavy gun, fluting is merely aesthetics on a bolt body. Now in the case of the light weight model that Savage is currently making, its weight reduction. For a 7mmRM you want a 26-28" barrel. If you plan to carry at all, I would suggest a finished taper of .820-.875. My rifle is a Savage with a B&C stock Medalist A2 w/28" finished at .814" It's a small shank taper from 1.055"-.814 to match an older muzzle break I had. 28" would be optimal in my opinion. My gun weights in close to 13#. going with a .820 is not going to limit your long range accuracy. It will only limit how many rounds you can fire in succession before your barrel is too hot. Big barrels for target type setups are more for heat sink purposes. But there is definitely an increase to stability with a heavier bore.

Tank

 

[270winshort]

Krieger is a great way to go but it will take you a while to get one, I would also check into a Brux barrel, they shoot great with less lead time, I wouldn't worry about going with the smaller countor liltank is on the nose about accuracy issues, I shoot a #4 flutted 28" brux barrel it shoots in the 2's at 100 yrds with vld bullets it just limits the number of rounds you can shoot before cooling, I hunt in big mtns so I prefer a little lighter gun so if you want to hunt with it go with the lighter countor.

 

[E4T]

All helpful info and much appreciated. While I was checking into the other barrels sugested, I ran into the issue of head space. As I understand it, that head space can be one of the biggest contributors to bullet yaw and reduced accuracy. I have to admit I did not have a clue as to what would be better between the options. If memory serves it was +.05 or -.05 or +-.025. Any advice here? I have been told that when reloading for accuracy if you use brass fired only in your weapon, then resize the neck only and set over all cartridge length by adjusting the seating die with a dummy round that you make my seating the bullet into the brass by carefully putting it toghether and chambering it your weapon so as to minimize that gap. Is that off base, on target or other, and if a propper process what would that do for what measurment to order the barrel with.

Again, your help is very much appreciated!!gun)

 

[backwoods83]

Brux barrels are virtually identical to Krieger, made by one of there former employees actually, id go through sharp shooters supply and get a 28" 9 twist .820" muzzle brux and also get a trigger, bolt knob and recoil lug from them, or you can get a Rifle Basix trigger from Midway and id also reccomend a Wolff extra power firing pin spring. As mentioned I think you'd be happy with the Stockade Prarie Dog Special/Tactical stock, and like they said don't skimp on the glass.

 

[E4T]

I did check that stock out and I do like it. Seems to have some great features and I like that he will add weight to it if wanted. Any thoughts on the head space for that barrel? Actually I think it was the Lothar barrel that offered options on that dimension so it may not be an option or concern on Brux

 

[backwoods83]

The Brux will likely be done with a match reamer and that will give you the extra throat that your likely refering to for the longer bullets like 180 bergers or sierras and 162 hornadys, matrix and cutting edge make some very high bc vlds as well but I haven't tried any of those.

 

[liltank]

I have a Lothar barrel and love it. It shoots a consistent .2-.5 MOA if the nut be hind the trigger is tight enough. I have shot multiple .25 to .3 MOA groups out to 810yds with my .308. The nice thing about the Lothar barrels, is the steel. It is made of 550SS where all barrels in the US are made w/ 416SS. That will add many more rounds of shooting. It takes about 100rnds to break it in, but man, when comes together, it comes together quickly. .5 to .75 MOA with every load tested right now.

Tank

 

[E4T]

not a problem needing a lot of rounds to break it in if your going to be firing never used brass to size for you chamber anyway.

What advice about the measurements on the Lothar regarding head clearance though. I just know next to nothing on that issue and Lothar gives options in that dimension that the others dont. or at least they dont on the websites

 

[liltank]

not a problem needing a lot of rounds to break it in if your going to be firing never used brass to size for you chamber anyway.

What advice about the measurements on the Lothar regarding head clearance though. I just know next to nothing on that issue and Lothar gives options in that dimension that the others dont. or at least they dont on the websites

I know this doesn't give you specific numbers, but what I did is the following:

1. Place head spacing go gauge in chamber.
2. Screw the tube in with the bolt in locked and closed position.
3. Kept screwing until barrel stopped and tightened barrel nut.
4. Use no go gauge to make sure the bolt did not close.
5. Go to the range and shoot awesome groups!

I wish I could tell you it was harder than that, but that is all it took with my Savage. You can watch Youtube video's for the same instruction. It's stupid simple. Another way is using unfired virgin brass. For a no go, use 2pc of scotch tape on the head of a new piece of brass and make sure the bolt doesn't shut. Don't know what the actual head spacing numbers are, I just know it works.

Tank