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Gear Carrying Arrangement - Binocular, Backpack, & Handgun

treillw

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 5, 2015
Messages
129
I'm trying to plan out how I'm going to carry all my hunting gear without spending a bunch of money to see what arrangement/product works best. Any suggestions on what works for you would be greatly appreciated.

Gear:
Binoculars
Smith and wesson x-frame 4" barrel
heavy backpack with hip belt
bunch of random junk!

I am currently carrying a 1911 on a belt holster, but when I go to the x-frame things will become a little more interesting. I now carry the binoculars on my chest and the 1911 is only slightly annoying with the backpack strap. I think the x-frame will be heavy on my belt and a bigger pain with the backpack hip belt. I have thought of going to a chest holster for the x-frame, but I think that will be too crowded having binoculars and a big handgun on my chest. I have also thought outside of the box a little bit and investigated drop leg holsters, which sounds like a great option in theory, but I have read that they chafe the life out of your leg - which would be a big downfall for walking 15 miles a day. I also don't know how the x-frame would feel fatigue/bulk wise moving back and forth on your leg 1000s of times as you walk.

One thing that may work well is to go with a chest holster and carry the binoculars somewhere else. I would like the binos to be readily available though for easy access when an animal pops up. Are there any other convenient bino carrying systems that work well besides chest rigs?

Thanks for any suggestions!
 
I seldom walk very far when hunting, but if needed, I carry the handgun in a shoulder holster, the binos in a bino harness and backpack with waist belt. Everything is handy and comfortable. I tried the nylon ammo belt but it fell off my skinny butt. Good luck
 
Drop leg holsters seem like a great idea to most people but once you start walking around with one most people change their minds.

If you're going to carry a pack and you want to carry a side arm the easiest way to do it is to mount a holster either on the waist belt or on the pack shoulder harness about mid chest.

The Tenzing Shooter's Pack is a pretty interesting concept. You don't even have to remove the rifle from the pack to shoot it.

Tenzing | TC SP14 The Choice Shooter Pack - Whitetail Hunting Packs - Packs

Thirty years ago carrying a 130lbs of gear in a backpack didn't bother me, today, 30lbs is enough.

There are some binocular cases that mount to your shoulder straps so you might consider them.
 
A pack carrying more than 20 lbs. ABSOLUTELY needs a frame (not a bendy "frame sheet") and a good padded hip belt.

The hip belt should be snugged up as tight as comfortably possible to transfer the pack weight off the shoulders and onto your pelvis and legs. This is the entire reason too have a padded hip belt.

When tightening the hip belt shrug your shoulders high and tighten the belt, then relax your shoulders. 90% of the weight should now be one your hips - where it belongs.

To rest some muscles and work others you can tighten the shoulder straps and loosen the hip belt for, say, 15 - 20 minutes.

If you pack has lift straps (located above your shoulders, on the shoulder straps but attached to the top of your pack) you can loosen them to let the pack lean back a bit when going downhill for good balance and comfort.

When ascending or walking on the flats you should pull the lift straps forward and bring the pack closer to your back for better balance. For steep uphills pull the lift straps (and maybe even the shoulder straps as well) to being the pack tight against your back.

Play with all the harness straps to get the right balance and re-adjust them during the day to relieve tired muscles.

The best rifle carry for a pack I have seen is Kifaru's "Gun Bearer". It allows you to quickly get the rifle up to shot with a single pull on a Velcro strap at your shoulder. The entire weight of the rifle is transferred to your padded hip belt via the Hypalon "pocket" where the rifle butt rests.

Eric B.

BTW, "Wild Rose" is persactly right about leg holsters. They make walking more difficult when you have to lift the **** thing every other stride. They are OK for SWAT teams but not for hunting.
 
I've been using this item for many years while grouse hunting with much more than a normal bird hunting vest in the remote parts of northern MN. I've also used one attached to my day pack when hunting big game all around the US.

No one has ever seen it and determined it was a firearm. Very easy to draw from and even carry a spare mag with me in it. Not the fastest draw, but when on your pack belt, it really is easy to carry.

Safepacker Concealed Carry Holster, Concealed Weapon Holster
 
Binos: Shoulder harness. I have used one from Cabelas for years and it works great. A neck strap is a no-no.

Rifle: Sling. I have a pack with a scabbard, but you have to dismount the pack to get it out. OK for when you are packing out but bad for hunting or bear defense.

Pistol: Everybody talks up the big X-Frame pistols for bear defense until they actually have to carry them in bear country. I carry a SW329 with hard cast 300gr bullets in a paddle holster attached to the webbing on my pack waist belt. I hardly notice it it is so light. It will have FEET of penetration on a bear. Yes, it kicks pretty hard but I will not notice it when something bitey and scratchy is trying to remove muscle from my bone and I can carry it all day, every day, without complaint. If I don't have the 329 I have a Taurus Tracker TI in 41Mag.
 
Best bino carrier I found is Alaskan guide gear. Keeps it tight to your chest doesn't bounce around and is protected in a closed case. I carry my 15X Swaros like this everywhere I hunt.

I really like eberlystock just one pack for a good all around pack. A little big for a day pack but can carry lots of meat if needed.

Side arm? Why carry one if your carrying a rifle?? But if you choose to take this advice. I carry one for a living and if its not quick and assessable there is no point in carrying, If you don't carry it where you can get it out in about 2 seconds its just unneeded weight and you will never get to it in time when you need it for a quick dynamic situation.
 
I also recommend puting the sidearm holster on your packs' hip belt. I have a great pack from Outdoorsmans which has a rifle carry system (you still have to dismount the pack to get the rifle off but if makes long distance travel more confortable) and a sturdy, dedicated hip belt extra a strap designed specifically for carry a handgun which wont flop or sag under the weight of the big revolver. This pack has an external plastic frame (good, heavy duty polymer) and is also great for packing as you can remove the bag and just carry the frame with a meat retention system on it.
It's made in the USA today too. However it s not cheap, at around $400 from memory.
If you're reall keen to keep the handgun with you when you dont have the pack on consider a second, ultralight holster or carry system you can keep on your pants or underneath the pack.
http://m.outdoorsmans.com/#/redirect/products/coyote-brown-outdoorsmans-optics-hunter-pack-system

Vorn Equipment also makes a packpack which has the best rufle carry system out there, giving you instant access to it by means of a parachute styles release system. Very expensive however.

For the binos, I just use asome elastic fabric with two snap fasteners to keep
The binos against my chest, and you can cinch it up so it also takes the weight of the binos.
With the Outdoorsman pack, I extend the bino strap so it actually goes over the tips of the backpack frane and that way you don't feel any of the weight at all, and it does not flop around. That system is also good for glassing if you sit down, because you can pull against the binos to stabilise them.
 
I never carry a handgun while hunting with a rifle.

Always carry survival gear: water purification, first aid, small waterproof tent, extra food (protein bars...I could live on 'em), a cloth game bag, hunter orange tape, waterproof matches, change of dry clothes, a very bright flashlight with extra batteries (good for signaling), a good quality compass with a mirror that can be used for signaling, (GPS is good but not necessary if your compass skills are good), warm underwear, warm jacket, waterproof poncho, a small stove, pot, and coffee cup for coffee, and maybe a satellite phone. God forbid, were you to become seriously injured, you'd need the sheriff to fly you to hospital yesterday.

Most stuff in backpacks is unnecessary. There were many times I thought I was going to have to spend the night in wilderness with nothing but a couple protein bars, waterproof matches, and the clothes on my back. BTW, small fires are more for peace of mind than anything else. There is something reassuring about a small fire.

My stove is an MSR Windpro. It weighs about 8 ounces. My MSR stainless steel pot weighs but a few ounces. Morning coffee is comforting.

Survival gear is most important. Lost hunters have to know that they will survive. They must never, ever give up. Hunters need equipment that will assure their survival.

I was taught, in fact, it was drilled in to me in a former line of work that no matter how bad a situation appears (shot numerous times) I was to never ever give up. Always reassure yourself that you'll survive. Look for survival options.

A paramedic told me some 30 years ago that every patient who told him that he was going to die did in fact die. You must tell yourself that you will live. Panic kills. Never panic. Calm, rational thinking will get anyone out of bad predicaments.

When I've been temporarily disoriented in the Rockies, I've immediately stopped, sat down, taken a few bites of a protein bar, and thought about something not related to my predicament. Once I was completely calm, I thought about how I got where I was. I'd orient my cardinal directions. I would not begin my way out of my predicament until I was 100% certain of my route home. There was more than once that I've arrived back in camp by flashlight. But I was prepared to spend the night in wilderness. I knew that I was going to survive.

Oh yeah, always carry at least two knives and a Havalon saw. One could build a suitable and somewhat waterproof shelter with a Havalon saw.

I could spend nights in wilderness with a very small pack with the right items. I don't need hot food. I can live for a long time on protein bars.

In my opinion, the most important items in any pack are for emergency survival. The rest are comfort items. I've yet to find hunting comfortable. In fact, it's damned hard work.

Regarding handguns, the way I see it, a high power rifle is formidable. A high power rifle is devastating. Even if I were to carry a handgun, I'd reload my rifle before I reached for a handgun. Of course, this presupposes a 100% reliable rifle. However, I'm good with hunters who carry handguns. They're just not for me.

I hope this helps.

Best of luck to you.

P.S. Always think like a survivor.
 
KIFARU GUN BEARER (vertical front/side carry rifle holder for backpacks)

As I posted above this is my rifle carrier of choice B/C I can get the rifle up within 2 seconds with the QR shoulder buckle that wraps around the upright forearm.

The rifle butt sits in a vertically adjustable Hypalon "pocket" attached to the pack's padded waist belt. This puts all the weight of the rifle on the waist belt and thus on your pelvis.

Since the rifle is carried muzzle up I always tape my muzzle to keep out debris and rain/snow. It has been proven that tape over the muzzle does not affect zero. Perhaps the best tape is "paper" medical tape. Very thin but still waterproof and strong enough to last all week.

Eric B.
 
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