FN Mauser guys, question for you

Viking264

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Wondering what those of you who have either a.) owned a custom rifle built on an FN post-WWII action; or b.) had one built to your specs on an FN post-WWII action, saw in terms of achieved accuracy with careful hand load development. The topic of building a target rifle on a Mauser 98-type action has been covered extensively all over the internet; I'm specifically asking about the FN actions which featured the solid left wall of the receiver. It is understood (by me) that such a build is going to incorporate the "standard" measures of improving accuracy, such as lapping, truing, squaring, replacing the trigger/firing pin/firing pin spring, bedding, and using a quality barrel. Yes, this sort of project will cost more than a Tikka or Savage, both of which are generally very accurate right out of the box. It's more of a question of potential based on the FN action, less of a question of cost, so please try to refrain from the replying with, "Why would anyone want to undertake such a project when you can buy a new [insert brand and model here] for considerably less?"

Anyone?
 
I just had my Parker Hale ( mauser action ) rebarreled. I installed a 27" J C Custom SS 1/9 twist heavy barrel.(.945 muzzle). I also had the action trued and the lugs lapped. I am now it the process of installing a Boyd's pro varmint stock and a new trigger. Initial load development with the old stock and trigger were in the .350" range three shot groups with the best being .037.at 100 yrd. After I get it back together with the new stock( bedded) and new trigger I will move on to 5 shot groups at longer ranges. In short, depending on what kind of accuracy you want, you can shoot tiny groups. I feel I can expect 5 shot groups in the .300 range. Not bench rest grade, but good all the same.
 
9597F311-9389-4E5D-8B7C-C632A013590C.jpeg One of my favorite rifles is built on a Mauser action I've had since the late 60s or early 70s. Its a 280 AI in a Bell & Carlson stock with 24" Douglas Premium bbl, Kleinguenther muzzle brake and a Jard trigger. It shoots .25" or less all day long with 168 VLDs at 2975 fps. It was originally built by Mr. Kleinguenther as a 280 Remington and later rechambered to a 280 AI by Pete Pieper of Precision Barrel Works. I wouldn't at all be afraid to use a Mauser action if the work is done by a reputable gunsmith!
 
morning, I have a custom .308 built on a mauser action. very accurate. timmey
trigger, trued. barrel was a british machinegun barrel from WWII. barrel cut
down 26". kercote sniper gray. Barrel is machine grooved every 1.00-1.25 inches. I have built 3 rifles on mauser actions. all were shooters with the right barrels. Pete Pieper is also my gun smithy. excellent smithy and person. TUM
 
morning, I have a custom .308 built on a mauser action. very accurate. timmey
trigger, trued. barrel was a british machinegun barrel from WWII. barrel cut
down 26". kercote sniper gray. Barrel is machine grooved every 1.00-1.25 inches. I have built 3 rifles on mauser actions. all were shooters with the right barrels. Pete Pieper is also my gun smithy. excellent smithy and person. TUM
Yes he is! Great Guy!
 
Hey, I have one in 6mm rem, with a 1-12 twist. The barrel is 30" long ,11/4 inch diameter. Considering the weight hanging on the action with a freefloated train axle like my rifle has, and it's ability to shoot 1/4 moa tells me they are good stuff. I'm not really sure of the originality of it but it does have "jaeger " written on the trigger. If i ever wear out this barrel, i may go 280 ackley or 6.5-06
 
I have just recently built a custom Mauser on a BRNO VZ-24 action. My gunsmith says that 95% of your accuracy is going to come from using a good barrel, and I tend to agree. Using a good stock and a solid bedding job and having a good trigger should turn out a good rifle regardless of the style of Mauser action you are using. I build mine in 30-06. With my handloads using IMR 4064, Winchester brass and 168gr SMK and TTSX bullets, I was consistently making hits on rocks out to 950 yards in the southwest Colorado desert last week. My barrel might surprise you though...I used one of the $85 mauser barrels from Brownells. I bought it because this rifle was going to be purposed as a general hunting rifle for only out to 400-500 yards, so I figured I'd take a chance on an $85 barrel since the reviews were so good. Turn out the reviews were totally deserved. Those barrels are excellent and my rifle shoots sub MOA all day with my handloads.
 
Thanks for all of your replies. ATL5029, your experience re: the accuracy of the low-cost barrel falls in line with the popular sentiment that barrel quality is pretty good these days when they are produced by someone using modern techniques and equipment. I may opt to go the same route with one of my builds for a handy all-purpose hunting rifle. Likely, I would go 7x57 if the twist was adequate. I'm strictly a hand load guy, so would be following the usual procedure of suiting the load to each rifle.
 
Thanks for all of your replies. ATL5029, your experience re: the accuracy of the low-cost barrel falls in line with the popular sentiment that barrel quality is pretty good these days when they are produced by someone using modern techniques and equipment. I may opt to go the same route with one of my builds for a handy all-purpose hunting rifle. Likely, I would go 7x57 if the twist was adequate. I'm strictly a hand load guy, so would be following the usual procedure of suiting the load to each rifle.

I read somewhere that those barrels are made by ER Shaw, which I've heard can be hit or miss with them, but according to me and other customers all these barrels seems to be hits. Unfortunately, they only come in 4 chamberings: 308, 30-06, 25-06, and 6.5x55. Seems kinda odd that 7x57 and 8x57 aren't offered. They kinda seem to be a no brainer. Of course, you could rechamber those barrels to another suitable cartridge if you wanted to go to a magnum or longer round
 
As far as ER shaw, I've had 2 very good ones (6.5 and .35) 2 poor ones (both 6mm) and another 6.5 which took a huge amount of effort until I found something it shot sub moa.

Among others, I have an ER shaw varmint contour 6.5-06 built on a '41 BCD German action with a nice Richards microfit claro stock showing lots of fiddleback.
I built it during my "fancy rifle" stage, and have not shot it much, but on good days I get a MOA below .4 (gunsmith chambered)
Another early war 98 action has an ER shaw helical fluted 6mm rem barrel which is lucky to shoot MOA. (ER Shaw chambered) Since it has a fast twist, I was considering rechambering it to 6-06 rather than just selling it off. (the original shiny bore, turned down 8mm military barrel outshot this shaw)

Conversely, I had an FN action with a douglas 25-06 bbl which was a 2-3" rifle, regardless of tweaks and load development (which I sold out of frustration because my Rem700 25-06 of the same weight shoots .5 moa or better) . Also, a WW1 era 98az small ring with a 7x57 douglas bbl which only seems to like one load combination. This will shoot sub half inch on a good day, anything else is very poor.

to be honest, my 96 and 98 action rifles tend to shoot more accurately than my factory Win70's and M77's, but as a whole the 98's tend to be far more finicky than my factory and rebarreled Rem700's.
 
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I had an Interarms Mark X action re-barreled to a 358 Winchester. Consistently groups 3 and 5 shots under an inch.
 
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