fl sizing dies forster

D Scott

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Bend Oregon
Hi I would appreciate any feedback on an issue I'm having, I have a 260 remm I'm reloading for, new gun and new brass, I have forester bench rest dies,(fl and seater) I'm getting scratches along the length of the brass after I FL size it and it took considerable force to move the brass throught the die, using the imperial wax, and rcbs spray lube, the scratches polish out with some steel wool , the cases were clean, with appropriate lube, dies were clean, no pressure signs on the cases, so whats up with all the scratches ? they are only on the surface but I dont get any with my RcBS dies for my 22-250, all new stuff no dirt, is this normal or any thing to be concerned about ? thanks in advance Scott
 
Hi I would appreciate any feedback on an issue I'm having, I have a 260 remm I'm reloading for, new gun and new brass, I have forester bench rest dies,(fl and seater) I'm getting scratches along the length of the brass after I FL size it and it took considerable force to move the brass throught the die, using the imperial wax, and rcbs spray lube, the scratches polish out with some steel wool , the cases were clean, with appropriate lube, dies were clean, no pressure signs on the cases, so whats up with all the scratches ? they are only on the surface but I dont get any with my RcBS dies for my 22-250, all new stuff no dirt, is this normal or any thing to be concerned about ? thanks in advance Scott


also about setting the decapping pin in alighnment with the vent hole, my pin is sticking out about 10 mm but the neck sizing ball is lined up with the vent per instructions, do I need to turn the expander ball up so the pin doesnt stick out so far? or should it be scewed down tight to the bottom of the threads ? thanks
 
Hmmm... You might have lemon slip... how far back are you moving shoulders of the brass when you FL size?
 
I have the exact same dies for my 7mmRM and they scratch the brass just the same as you are describing. My scratches are not running the length of the brass (from the case head to shoulder direction) they are running around the case body. They are very light scratches and when I put the cases back into the tumbler to get all of the lube off of them they are generally all gone. I don't know if this is a problem of any kind for us, but I can tell you I do see the same thing.

As far as your decapping pin goes, mine is the same as well. I feel like I have a ton of decapping pin sticking out the base of my die, but that's just how it is I think. I can tell you from some experience that you want that expander ball aligned with the vent hole as described in the instructions that came with the die. How do I know? I have to laugh to myself as typing this. Let me see if I can post you a link to a thread I started just a week or so ago. Here it is:

http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f28/what-my-problem-pic-inside-76402/

As far as the amount of effort that I have to put into sizing, I can't really say that I have had that problem but once, and that was when I wasn't using enough lube. At the time I was just using some lube on a lube pad, and I was getting into really having to put some pressure on the brass. I then stuck a case, so watch out. If you are putting that much force on the brass then I would back off and bring the ram down, size a little more until it gets tough to push, then bring the ram back down until you have the whole thing sized.

I don't know if I am making sense, but instead of trying to size the whole piece of brass with one stroke of the ram, size a little at a time bringing the ram up and down until you make it all the way to the shell holder. If you're not careful, you will do like I did and put too much elbow grease on it and end up with a stuck case and when you try to bring the ram back down the shell holder will just pull through the rim.

So after all of that, I would say make sure you are getting the sizing wax all over that case as well as inside the case neck to help the expander ball out and you should see it get much easier to size those. Hope my rambling helped some.
Steve
 
Hey Steve I shot about 50 rounds today a couple rounds chambered kind of tight but all the groups were sub moa, probably more me, best group was .440 one group up to .9 inch working up some loads 140 gr 6.5 mm in the 260 best group was .295 nosler 140 hpbt, i will resize tonight with a little more lube and see how it goes, i will call forester on monday and ask them what they think thanks again fo the feedback

Scott
 
Hey Steve I shot about 50 rounds today a couple rounds chambered kind of tight but all the groups were sub moa, probably more me, best group was .440 one group up to .9 inch working up some loads 140 gr 6.5 mm in the 260 best group was .295 nosler 140 hpbt, i will resize tonight with a little more lube and see how it goes, i will call forester on monday and ask them what they think thanks again fo the feedback

Scott

Scott,
Pretty good shooting!!! What kind of gun are you shooting? My shooting buddy just got a Sako TRG chambered in 260. Pretty sweet little rig. A little more than I would be comfortable paying, but a nice gun none-the-less. He is shooting 139gr Scenars. He was making first round, cold-bore shots at a silhouette target at 975yds last time we shot. Needless to say he was pleased. Let me know what Forster tells you when you call them. Good luck.
Steve
 
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