Fitting Aftermarket Barrel w/ Different Contour to Factory Stock

[jlarose85]

So this is just a general question that I thought about while looking at new rifles. Mind you I'm pretty new to bolt guns (or at least modifying / building them). If you're putting an aftermarket barrel on a factory rifle and the new barrel has a bigger contour than what was on the rifle originally, how do you remedy that? Would you just have to grind or dremel out the area under the barrel so it will be free floated again? I know you don't want the barrel and the stock to make contact and that's the only way I can think of that would fix it.

Appreciate the help y'all!

 

[Coyote Shadow Tracker]

What material stock do you have???
If it is wood there are some tools (barrel bedding tool) you can purchase to remove some of the wood.
If it is Fiberglass best way is to mill it out so you will get a "Clean" contour.

 

[Reelamin]

They make scraper tools. OI use a sanding drum. Dremel tools work if you have void control. I then just use a long dowel and staple sand paper around it. If wood you can stain then seal it. If I seal it I usually just polyurethane it. Plastic et all I will paint it.

 

[338 dude]

Or sand paper over the correct size deep well socket

 

[Dmagna]

Or sand paper over the correct size deep well socket

That's what I do

 

[Shane Lindsey]

Wrap the barrel lengthwise three times in masking tape and place it in the stock (it won't fit).
Wrap sand paper around the barrel and work it back and forth.
You will have to adjust it a little as you go by lifting up on the action so the sandpaper will clear it, but just remember to keep the sandpaper "tight and uniform" around the barrel. Eventually the barrel will slip into its natural position. Run your paper for proper float. Once you take off the tape, you should have good clearance all the way around. This has been the best way to ensure even removal, just enough. I have tried the dowel and socket, but they get uneven wear for me and one side gets too much removed.

Best to have a smith use a mill...

 

[Reelamin]

Best to have a smith use a mill...

What would this cost? Smiths I know could not even get it in for months and probably $150.

The smith when he was trying to get mine to shoot used his mill. He was showing me how. He said numerous times if not for the aluminum you can just use sand paper around a round rod to do the same thing then a dremel to cut some small grooves for the bedding to stick into.

 

[Shane Lindsey]

I don't know. I haven't had one do it on a barrel replacement. They have done it while doing a full build, so not sure.

But there is cheap and there is right. I can show you a safe full of cheap and almost rights...

 

[jlarose85]

Good info guys! I appreciate it. Now I know what I'm up for if I ever decide to tackle this myself.

 

[nocannons]

Dowel rod about same size as barrel ( close as possible over better than smaller) . Coarse to start and when you get it opened up go to finer then 2-3 coats poly to seal.

 

[Far North Hunter]

You can get sand paper in roles that has a sticky back. What I've used is approximately 4" wide and 10 yds long. it's also used in my woodworking shop. I cut it to length to fit around wooden dowels, rigged pieces of copper tubing and it sticks well to your fingers. Works great and doesn't slip off.

 

[Mike Matteson]

Barrel bedding tools from Brownell. Kit for about $250.00 include several sizes. (you probable can get by with the 3/4" bedding tool) Use black oil painting for Art work, Put some in very small pan of cup with a small amount of motor oil. Mix together. You will only need a size of about 1/2 dollar. Mix those together and have a small brush. You will need to set the stock in a vice to hold it. Be careful to protect the stock when placing the stock into the vise. You will need to paint the lower half of the barrel on the areas that are going to make contact with the stock. Then stick the action and barrel back into the stock. Generally the weight will push it down into the stock. Remove the action. You'll see where the paint has marked the stock. Use the bedding tool to remove the materials from the stock. Repeat this until barrel fits. Only removing material from the stock where the black shows up until action is back into it correct position. Continue to remove the black marks left behind from the barrel to the stock. remove that material. Most of the time there will only be a small line of black on the stock. You will have to continue to paint the barrel as you are doing this. Don't go wild in removing material from the stock. It's a slow process, but you'll let the action and barrel back into the stock. By the time you are getting close to fitting the barrel back into the stock you will get the hang of it. Be sure you have the barrel floated. You'll need to seal the stock areas that you removed the materials from. Otherwise your stock can and will get wet. Make the forearm piece swell up and change the position of the barrel.

 

[Shane Lindsey]

So having done this with a recent rebarrel on Savage. IF you can afford it, pay a GS to do it right. They will bed it, mill it, and make it correct, and it will look clean and professional.

Problem with dowels, it is almost hard to follow the contour of the barrel. The contours of the barrel, unless straight, will be different and taper, and can create uneven distance and make it almost right.

If you have the tools and the patience, go for it, but again I go back to my statement about a safe full of almost rights…

 

[Mike Matteson]

Yes it does take patience. Never had that problem with keeping the lines straight. it all depend on how big of a rush you are in. I also use them to free float the barrels in other rifles. So they are handy to have around. If you have a safe full of almost right. I would if I was you take them to the GS. I have let in a many of actions into stocks. Being left handed, they don't make many stocks for lefthander. I have worked over plastic stocks too.