Firing pin spring???

I watched the Cortina - Speedy video as well, and my take was, the consistent ignition a new spring provides is very critical to accuracy. Equally important is to eliminate the ¨wavy¨ effect of the spring which some springs have. This is eliminated by have springs with the correct ID to the firing pin OD. This will keep the spring from being wavy and rubbing on the bolt barrel. Lube was also discussed, IIRC - grease not oil.

Now, with that said and at the risk of facing the ire of those who would disagree, Speedy and Cortina are very successful BR and F Class competitors with proven backgrounds, whom are looking for tenths and less than tenths of improvements in accuracy. Firing Springs are not high dollar and seem to be an easy fix if done as suggested by two very good shooters and rifle builders. Good luck and God Bless.
I just watched that too Speedy does bench rest and of course Erik shoots f-class. The showed a shorter spring and a titanium bushing. That gave consistent precision ignition. They change springs often.
 
Instead of just doing the spring I've put in Ptg firing pin assemblies in both my 7rum and 7stw; they are running Timney triggers too. I just didn't feel like playing around with the j-key assembly on the 7rum, and some tool put a 3 position safety on my 7stw before I owned it and did a poor job, so they were both ripe for file 13.
 
Instead of just doing the spring I've put in Ptg firing pin assemblies in both my 7rum and 7stw; they are running Timney triggers too. I just didn't feel like playing around with the j-key assembly on the 7rum, and some tool put a 3 position safety on my 7stw before I owned it and did a poor job, so they were both ripe for file 13.
I also use PT&G bolts for many of my builds…but have also switched out those firing pin springs too. Their cocking pieces are always spot on too.

Cheers.
 
Out of curiosity, why didn't you go with a Timney or equivalent, instead of replacing just a spring? The Timney trigger on my 77 is in ounces...
Times were much tighter financially for me then.
Complete spring kits were like $20 vs $100 for a Timney.
Add in I like to tinker and they are hunting rifles. Only needed a crisp trigger set to 2-3lb pull.
So it was spring kits and some time with a few honing stones.
 
No, just the bolt, and firing pin assembly from the original action. Have used both LA and SA one piece bolt bodies from PT&G.

Cheers.
Sometime I am thick headed. So you are exchanging one bolt in an action to another bolt built by somebody else?
It's been my understanding that wasn't a good practise to use a difference bolt or exchange a bolt.
I am not a smith, so my knowledge is somewhat limited on what can be done. I use Mauser action to have a rifle built. Triggerteck has changed my thinking. I like the triggerteck triggers, but they don't build for Mauser action yet. The main reason for that was Mauser safety that locked the firing pin. No way it could slip off. Being I am left handed, I carry my rifle on my left side. So with the Rem Action and where the safety is located. I can during hunting kick off the safety. I about took off my head one time because of the safety loaction and having to grab my rifle, because I was slipping or falling backward. So I stop carrying a round in the chamber in Rem actions after that.
So **** if you do or **** if you don't. Full steam ahead. 🤣
 
@Mike Matteson,
Swapping bolts from one rifle to another rifle is a no-no, but buying a bolt body requires fitting and head spacing to work correctly and they are machined to suit this.
I don't hunt with a round in the chamber on Rem actions. My stalking rifles are all CRF and have 3 position safeties, even my Mauser '98's have Gentry 3 position safeties.

Cheers.
 
I'm surprised no one has developed a wave washer spring assembly yet. One that doesn't have the tendency to become un-concentric under pressure and is easier exchange wave washers & spacers to dial in tension.

Or maybe they have and I just ain't seen it?
 
@Mike Matteson,
Swapping bolts from one rifle to another rifle is a no-no, but buying a bolt body requires fitting and head spacing to work correctly and they are machined to suit this.
I don't hunt with a round in the chamber on Rem actions. My stalking rifles are all CRF and have 3 position safeties, even my Mauser '98's have Gentry 3 position safeties.

Cheers.
I'll have to look up the Gentry to see what they make. I figured the bolt and barrel had to match up anyway. it was the lugs that concern me in fitting in the action. In my Mauser action I was luck to get my hands onto the locking part that match or moded in to the scope. They don't make them any longer I was told.
 
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