Fireforming

[bamadawg2009]

Ok guys Ive got a question about fireforming. When my 280 AI gets done at the smith and I start fireforming brass can I just use a standard 280 REM load set to COAL, or do I have to jam the bullets up into "engage" the rifling to get the pressure to blow out the shoulder. I hear different things all the time, like you need to fireform with a pet load or just any box of regular ammo will do just load up and pull the trigger. This will be my first AI rifle and I dont want to blow it up on the first trigger pull. THANKS IN ADVANCE.

 

[flashhole]

You should be good to go with standard factory rounds or standard handloads. If you are loading them up yourself you might consider annealing the neck and shoulder area first. Ask your smith how he cut the chamber. The neck/shoulder junction should be in the same place (AI or standard case) so headspacing is set properly.

 

[J E Custom]

Ok guys Ive got a question about fireforming. When my 280 AI gets done at the smith and I start fireforming brass can I just use a standard 280 REM load set to COAL, or do I have to jam the bullets up into "engage" the rifling to get the pressure to blow out the shoulder. I hear different things all the time, like you need to fireform with a pet load or just any box of regular ammo will do just load up and pull the trigger. This will be my first AI rifle and I dont want to blow it up on the first trigger pull. THANKS IN ADVANCE.

I just completed two 280 AIs and there was a little difference in the AI go gauge and the 280 go
gauge but not enough to be a problem(The New SAMMI AI is .006 shorter) and I found that you
could chamber standard 280 ammo and fire form with very good results. In fact both rifles shot
standard 280 Remington 150 grain Core Locks well under 1/2 MOA while fire forming.

So the owner is hunting with the factory ammo and fire forming at the same time. We also
used factory ammo to break the barrels in on both rifles.

The F Class rifle will shoot 5 shot groups under 1/10 of an inch in the AI loads. And the sporter
weight rifle will shoot .200 to .300 groups.

We had no problems with brass while fire forming.

J E CUSTOM

 

[bamadawg2009]

Thanks guys I was hoping I was on the rite track.. Any suggestions on what brass will last the longest Ive always shot WIN. nickle in my 30-338 and never had it split a case and I"m on the 10th reload for some cases.. I was just wandering if fireforming shortened the case life compared to regular brass.. I just ordered 50 nickle plated WIN brass cases to fireform when I get it, hopefully I didnt waste my $$$$.

 

[J E Custom]

Thanks guys I was hoping I was on the rite track.. Any suggestions on what brass will last the longest Ive always shot WIN. nickle in my 30-338 and never had it split a case and I"m on the 10th reload for some cases.. I was just wandering if fireforming shortened the case life compared to regular brass.. I just ordered 50 nickle plated WIN brass cases to fireform when I get it, hopefully I didnt waste my $$$$.

If the nickel cases make it through the fire forming you should be ok.

Norma makes about the best brass for the 280 and It fire forms well.

Some nickle cases start peeling off after a few loadings and you dont want to let this happen
in your chamber because it will stick to the chamber walls and cause problems.

The Nosler brass is the only one that is formed in the 280 AI version and it is made by federal
and does not last that well IMO.

J E CUSTOM