Fireforming cases - recommendations wanted

P7M13

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I just converted a 6.5 Swede into 6.5 Swede BJAI. The rifle shows promise to be a laser.
I think I found three nodes in a ladder test last week, now I want to form up 2 boxes of Norma 6.5 Swede brass. However, I don't want to send any bullets down the barrel on this one to reduce wear.
Since I have 6 lbs of Universal (Clays), I thought I'd do 18gr and then pack the case with Kapok instead of cream of wheat.
Looking for consensus or better ideas. What say you?
Thanks in advance!
 
I just converted a 6.5 Swede into 6.5 Swede BJAI. The rifle shows promise to be a laser.
I think I found three nodes in a ladder test last week, now I want to form up 2 boxes of Norma 6.5 Swede brass. However, I don't want to send any bullets down the barrel on this one to reduce wear.
Since I have 6 lbs of Universal (Clays), I thought I'd do 18gr and then pack the case with Kapok instead of cream of wheat.
Looking for consensus or better ideas. What say you?
Thanks in advance!
What is a BJAI?!?!

I have a 280 Sherman that I want to preserve barrel life on, so I took a cheap action and a throw away barrel my smith had laying around and built a fireform rifle with the exact chamber dimensions as my 280 Sherman. It was only a few hundred dollars to do- for the cheap action I had laying around and the chamber work by the smith.

Might consider that?
 
BJAI = Bob Jourdan Ackley Improved, also known as the 6.5x55 40° Improved.
I bought a 721 6.5 Swede that was bung'd up by the gunsmith I bought it from. [eta] He listed it as "leaving flute marks on the brass". I bought it for the price of action. On first firing, I got a face full of gas. I called him back to say it was more than flute-marks, it was unsafe. [/eta] He wouldn't take a return. So I had it Ackley'd by my gunsmith to try to recover what was left. Brass fireformed then neck sized in the 721 rifle won't fit my other 6.5 BJAI, a Savage conversion with a McGowen 1:8 barrel.
[eta] When I picked it up from my gunsmith, he asked me, "Who is the smith who sold you this? I want to go to his shop and take away his tools." [/eta]
 
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NOT SURE ON YOU POWDER LOAD.
you need to work up to a sharp shoulder in a single firing.
also is the chamber american or European...head dia is an issue.
brass is European, chamber cut here may not be
 
Google Zeglin fireforming method
Yeah, I read this one before. Several threads discuss the 10% being on the light side to get the sharp shoulders for the AI angles. I've worked up a few cases of different powder charges to see which one does the job best.
NOT SURE ON YOU POWDER LOAD.
you need to work up to a sharp shoulder in a single firing.
also is the chamber american or European...head dia is an issue.
brass is European, chamber cut here may not be
Yeah, I agree, my initial powder estimate was way high. Not sure what you mean about euro or US chamber cut - does that pertain to throat/lede? Except as a parent case, it's nothing like the original Swede, so does it matter? Yes, agree on a single firing to get a sharp shoulder.
Hydraulic forming die.
Had I thought about this when I dropped the rifle off to be rechambered, I would have ordered that along with my custom dies. Fourteen to sixteen weeks lead time for hydraulic die. Sigh.
This would be my fourth wildcat and with the prior three, all the brass was fire-formed.

Alas... Millenial attitudes pervade my thinking -- I want brass NOW! LOL.
 
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I form several improved cases. I use the general rule of thumb that 1/3 of max with (Clays) Universal works quite well to get 99% chamber fill. I use COW and a plug of TP (toilet paper).
I used to use wax over the COW (Semolina) but found after 30 or so rounds, the wax was gumming up the end of the chamber and caused ejector marks if it was not cleaned.
I still often get a case or two that doesn't form in the lower third of the case due to lack of enough pressure, a second firing is required to get the desired result, especially in my belted mag cases.

Cheers.
 
Cotton ball. Rich Sherman has a good method. Small charge, cotton ball, rolled up carpet piece, fire form. I will see if I can find the video.
 
Your best bet to save the barrel, buy a hydro forming die from Whidden, they work perfectly for my .338 Norma Magnum AI.

I think Hornady makes one. Ut Whidden makes it custom to your chamber
 
Had I thought about this when I dropped the rifle off to be rechambered, I would have ordered that along with my custom dies. Fourteen to sixteen weeks lead time for hydraulic die. Sigh.
I just got a 20PPCAI FL die Whidden made for me I ordered it middle of march and received it middle of may. I was quoted 12-16 weeks also but only took about 9.
Sometimes you get things quicker, I think they quote lead times that far out so as not to disappoint if the quoted say 8-10.
 
COW is KNOWN to imbed in the case and not come out easily.
stick with powder, no wax no clay...simple SMALL tuff od kleenex
 
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