Fire forming brass

[Larry G B]

I have a question on fire forming Brass.
I have a 300 RUM and I just bought 100 rounds of new Remington brass. I have never fire formed brass without loading and fireing it. How does one do this before loading for real?
Help

 

[BENNYBOOBOO]

Some people might go on about dropping a light powder charge in the case, topping it off with oatmeal, and then headed to the range to make a mess. *Whatever*

Then there are others that take the opportunity to do some rough testing with several different: powders, charge weights, bullets, primers, etc. This can give the shooter a good idea of what has potential, what doesn't hold potential, where high pressure signs begin to show up with each combination, speeds that different combinations will chrono at, and so forth.

Then, when all 100 pieces of brass have been fireformed and you have a ****-ton of info to ponder while you're on the can, you will then have a better idea of which direction to move forward in. Of course you will have taken extraordinarilly-detailed notes. Right?

Then again, if this doesn't make sense or seems like too much effort... call Quaker Oats

Be safe,

EH

 

[Larry G B]

Thanks,
I have all ready came up with a load using H1000 powder and Fed 215 primers. How much difference will there be using unfired cases and the ones that are loaded for real? Say once or twice fired.
Also I am going to use Berger bullets for the first time. They look great, but I have heard some things about them not shooting very well.
My gun is a Savage FSAK116 weather warrior, with a Timney trigger.
Thanks very much for the information.

 

[GNERGY]

Usually new brass you just run it thru your sizing die, make sure the case length isn't too long, chamfur the inside of the necks and load it up, unless you're going to chamfur the flash holes. I don't think you are going to notice any difference between new brass and once fired.
You only have to fireform when you are making certain wildcats or Ackley improved cases.
Tarey

 

[BENNYBOOBOO]

Well, let us know what happens when you work up a load for the bergers that you haven't tried yet. The only way to know if any particular brass/powder/primer/bullet combo will work in your rifle is to go through the whole load developement process and figure it out for yourself (experimenting with different components is half the fun).

BTW- what do you mean "loaded for real?"

EH

 

[trueblue]

As stated, you will see very little difference between virgin and fireformed brass when dealing with a standard cartridge. Fireforming comes into play when reloading for an AI or wildcat caliber.
So, with your virgin brass, just load and shoot. I would however, debur the flashhole, uniform the primer pocket, FL resize,chamfer the neck, and clean it first.

 

[MagnumManiac]

Fireformed brass will show a slight difference in velocity and even charge height of the powder, normally the velocity will be slightly lower. You actually get the best powder packing with a fireformed case due to the slightly larger area the powder can pack into.
Accuracy is sometimes improved also due to the better packing ability of the powder.
gun)

 

[Larry G B]

I just ment for hunting. Shooting paper is for building loads for the real thing. I am new to all this stuff and am a hunter wanting to go in the field with the best ammo I can. So far I have shot 500 yards on paper. That might be my limit I don't know. I want to thank all who have replyed. I love this web sight. Keep up the great work. Larry G B

 

[old_heli_logger]

Make sure you remove your muzzle brake (if you have one) if you use oatmeal or COW (cream-of-wheat).

Good luck!