Finishing a Laminate Stock ?'s

[J E Custom]

OK, I shaped and sanded the stock and now I have 5 coats of Tru-Oil on the stock.
Holy smokes... the colors literally jump out at you!

After the 3rd coat I started to see a little build up, and slight imperfections in the finish here and there on the stock, in various areas.

Do I give it a light sanding with the 0000 Steel wool, to smooth it out one last time, and then put on the last coat of Tru-Oil?

Thanks for all of the help guys!

This is when I use the wet or dry paper and water to Level the wood and remove imperfections.

Just like on a car finish, as you sand the area removed will look mat finish and depressions , grain and defects will still be shiny and easy to see. (Use a sanding block where possible to level) when you have wet sanded the surface and see no more defects, Allow the stock to dry at least 24 hours and proceed with the tru-oil application as before until you get the desired results. (You may have to do some wet sanding in some spots before all blemishes/Defects are removed) the end results will depend on the number of coats applied.

If you use the 0000 steel wool after each coat it will reduce the build up and continue the leveling process.

It is a lot of work, but well worth the effort.

J E CUSTOM

 

[Earnhardt]

Thanks guys I appreciate it!

 

[wboregon]

If you want a perfect high gloss looks like glass finish. take the wood to 2000 on sand paper, making sure that each step you remove the previous grits scratch marks. then rub down with 0000 wool until your hands bleed. then pick a finish and enjoy

 

[Earnhardt]

Ok, I sanded the stock with 1000 grit, and hit it with 0000 wool.
Smoothed everything out, and it looks great.
I put another coat of Tru-Oil on (and what I thought was an extremely light coat), and I can see streaks in the finish.
Am I supposed to be sanding the stock with the 0000 wool as I'm applying the Truck-Oil?
Does that help alleviate the streaking I'm seeing in the finish?
And with the "last" coat I will apply (10th coat), do I sand the finish with 0000 wool to smooth it out and leave the finish with the dulled look?
Or do I hit it with a polishing compound of some type, to shine it back up?
Thanks

 

[NEMTHunter]

Sounds like you are getting close. I have not had to polish the stock to get it to shine with true oil. But then I have never used steel wool after the last coat. I use steel 0000 wool between every coat then the last coat I leave it as it is.

If you are getting streaks as in not enough oil? Or is it runs as in to much oil?

For the last coat get some soft cloth and gently apply the last coat. For build up coats I have always used my fingers. its a little messy but has always worked good. In this case on the last coat more times then not less is more. Hence the reason I would try to apply the last coat with a soft cloth. You need to use just enough oil to get the shine back from running 0000 steel wool. for me less is more on the last coat.

Post up pictures after you are done!

 

[Earnhardt]

Thanks again guys!

 

[J E Custom]

Thanks again guys!View attachment 103067 View attachment 103067

The great thing about using true oil is that if/when the stock starts loosing its luster, you can take a clean lent free cloth, and apply true oil sparingly to the cloth and rub the finish with it like you are trying to wipe it off and it will fill all of the micro scratches and look like new.

Don't apply another cote, just rub the stock with a little on the cloth.

J E CUSTOM

 

[Earnhardt]

J E Custom...Thanks!

OK, next questions here...
I have (4) KSA / (Stocky's Stocks) laminate stocks.
I love the color schemes and contours, but they all have a matte finish and I'd like to try a gloss finish on one or two of them.

Can I use Tru-Oil to do that? And how do I do it?

Do I just run the 0000 steel wool over the matte finish on the Stocky's Stock, to "scuff the matte finish up a little" so to speak, and then apply Tru-Oil like I did on the unfinished stock I just completed?

Or is there a much different sequence that involves completely stripping the old matte finish all the way down to the bare wood, and then I start all over again with 0000 steel wool and then layer on the Tru-Oil?

Thanks

 

[J E Custom]

If a stock has been finished with a coating (Gloss or satin) I like to strip them back to the wood. most finishes seal the wood but don't penetrate very deep, the rubbed finishes penetrate deeper and last longer. They are also easier to repair if needed.

I have found some beautiful wood under some of the factory finishes
after stripping and the rubbed finish brings out the beauty in them.

So I would recommend stripping, sanding, leveling with wet or dry sandpaper and then start the process you did on your stock.

Just the way I like to finish stocks. This is not the easiest way, but I feel it is the best for beauty and durability.

J E CUSTOM

 

[waltercrouse]

I agree with J E CUSTOM, the hand rubbed finish takes longer, but it is well worth it. The oil finishes will penetrate the wood which make the grain and colors of the wood really stand out and give it depth, versus a top coat like lacquer or polyurethane. I like to make my own mixture of 1/3 boiled linseed oil, 1/3 mineral spirits, & 1/3 deft oil based polyurethane. If you desire a quicker build up, add in a little more deft poly. Build up your desired amount of coats and if you desire a real glossy look, I like to use 3-4 stages of Meguiar's car polishes to bring out that shine. If u are afraid of using the 0000 steel wool, you can use 400-600 wet sand paper to rub it in as well.

There are plenty of different products available depending on the type of finish you want.

I prefer the hand rubbed look and use True oil or Tung Oil and sometimes use a mixture of linseed oil and shellac (French Polish)and then use pumice to polish.

The true oil is the easiest to use and it gives you a very durable and good looking finish. If you want a high gloss finish, I like Permalyn.

I start with 180 grit paper and once it is shaped the way I want it, I switch to 220 and then to 400 wet or dry paper to level the pores and then 0000 steel wool.

I then apply the finish with the 0000 steel wool allowing it to cure between coats. Repeat the steep until you get the desired finish.

The nice thing about this type of finish, It is easy to repair if it gets scratched.

J E CUSTOM

 

[waltercrouse]

I had .used Tru oil for years For cracks and dents ,you take brown bedding compound fill and sand . The tu oil will blend with bedding and make like it hardly there. I had a cracked Tang area on Win 94 pre 64 used the bedding and tu oil it came out very good