F.O.V. for a beginner


Active Member
Jan 8, 2004
Traverse City, Michigan.
Shopping for scopes to get the most for my money, I have run accross a question. I found 2 scopes that are both 6-24x50. Both are brands well known.
#1) FOV is 16' at 6x and 4' at 24x
#2) FOV is 46' at 6x and 18' at 24x
Why is there such a diference at the same magnification? Or is there more to this than joe shmoe would usualy know.
I am looking for a scope for my hunting rifle/target rifle. Here in Northeren Michigan, it is real hard to even find a 300yrd shot. But would like to shoot paper out to 600 or 800yrds on the range for fun. If I used scope #2, wouldn't it be harder to make out the center of a target at that distance than with scope #1? Jeff
#2 is all whacked out, no way it's correct.
I wish I had an 18' FOV!! Not even at 5.5x do I have that.

The FOV will get smaller at higher magnification.

The image in both scopes will be magnified the same amount if on the same power, say 24x. The larger FOV will just let you see more to the sides, above and below, just like lower power does, gives you more FOV, BUT it sacrifices magnification to do it.

Good scopes usually have a good wide FOV, say 4' on a low end scope verses 5-6' wide FOV on a higher end scope, at 24x of course.

What are the scopes are you looking at?

I'd save up some more money and get a good scope, trust me you'll be p.o. when one of those scopes losses its zero, point of impact shift when you change power, or when you cant zero because the scope will not track right. you'll only cry once with a decent scope and thats when you buy it.

Unfortunatly, Most of those scopes cost more than what I make in a month or more. That is why I didnt list the name to start with. Learning about the sport should not have to start with the brand name. Simply trying to figure out why there is such a differance in the FOV at the same power.

With little bit of watching, you can find good used Bausch and Lomb 3200 or 4200 series, Nikon or Sightron for the same money or less than what those cost new.

Get something with target knobs.

My advice would be the B&L and wait until you can find a good one used for that price on Ebay or one of the other boards.

And again it is right back to who can buy what brand. How about just answering the question? It will be a sad day when the sport of shooting dies because the new guy cant afford to learn. This is the third topic I have asked about, and got the same response. As for all the good I have heard about the wealth of information on this site, I guess you have to spend alot, then find out what to do with it.
If you are shooting a low recoil round and not adjusting the scope a lot for long range stuff a cheep scope will work. The first 3-9 scope I had on my 270 win was under $100. Adjusted it twice a year, once for deer season and than back for my varmin load. I ran that scope for 5 years and about 2000 rounds. Sold the gun and scope about 10 years ago to my cousin and he still uses the combo. The 6-24 might be to much mag for under 300y hunting. I just picked up a 2.5-10 mildot scope for shooting 10-800y. Had the choice between 2.5-10 or 6-24 and went with the lower for closer shots. Guys are shooting 1000y with fixed 10X scops so 24 is realy not needed. If you want to shoot long range and not adjust for elevation the mildot works well for holdover shots. You can also use it to range game. Its all up to the shooter in the end.
I used to buy tasco, bsa, cheap bushells, this past summer i broke down and bought a really nice scope. I started shooting better, seeing mirage better, everything was alot better, I could even see my bullets holes at 500 yards, as bounty hunter said get a sightron/nikon/or bausch and lomb, there about 100 more,new,than what your looking at now and their twice the scope.
Musket O, After a fair amount of experience trying to shoot out to even 500 or so yards with inexpensive scopes,I went to IOR scopes. Great, but kinda spendy. I would agree with others here and suggest buying a higher quality used scope. I would also suggest getting a mil-dot reticle. On inexpensive scopes I've had better luck keeping my POI from drifting by using the dots for hold over rather than trusting the turrets to be real accurate or repeatable. You don't have to spend a lot to have fun, just be realistic in your expectations of your equipment. My .02
The problems you often run into with the lowest end scopes were described. If you have to go there, you might consider a BDC reticle so a turret tracking problem can be elliminated if it is a problem.


Might be of interest -

This is what I did when I was on a super tight budget, I been there too.

It isn't too advertised really, but they do offer it if you ask. Order $150 or more at Cabela's and tell them to put it on the 6 pay interest free plan. You're still stuck to the budget, you just don't have to WAIT. Visa or Visa Check Card

Make a late payment ONE time and they'll never extend you credit again! Don't be late!

Most of my higher end items, GPS, Burris spotter, YP1000 laser, and some other stuff were all on the 6 pay. $50-150 a month for quality equipment in the end will really be worth it, especially on a scope.

A couple good options -

The 6-24 B&L 4200 would be $60 a month.
The 6.5-20AO Monarch Nikon $60 a month.
As part of the original question FOV and eye relief are inter related. The closer the eye relief the wider the FOV and vice versa.

Leupolds are often praised for their generous eye relief but it comes at the expense of FOV.

Have you considered a second hand fixed power - generaly what I get.
Thanks to all who answered. I should be able to make an educated decision based on FOV and EYE relief. I am in no rush to buy the first scope that happens to come along, just picked a couple to ask a question with. Brent, I sure will look into the deal at Cabela's. For now, I started by removing the weaver base and rings, and installed a Buris set. I will make due with my 3-9x50 Simmons until I can research the scopes a little more. Jeff
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