rsbhunter
Well-Known Member
NICE SCOPE.,....Tract gives a military/veteran discount if you served...I love my 2 Tracts...4-20 and 4.5-30...rsbhunter
Extraction Problem New Sendero SFII
- Thread starter AKBman
- Start date
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AKBman
Well-Known Member
Yes they do, and so far I have nothing but good to say about this 44-20x50!
Lionel Boyd Johnson
Well-Known Member
AKBman: By all means, follow shortgrass' *other* advice and have the chamber professionally examined for roughness before getting any work done on the bolt. You didn't mention the relationship of the 8 rounds that did extract easily to their position in the load development powder charge progression. Could these 8 represent the lower powder charges, while the others where the bolt was hard to withdraw were heavier powder charges? More details would be helpful. -Ed
As stated it sounds like a bolt timing issue which has been a Remington downfall. This is your Primary extractor.
Call this guy and he'll have you take a measurement with the bolt closed. You'll need a set of feeler guages to do it right. Mail him the bolt and he'll move the handle the appropriate distance. If the bolt distance to the action is in spec he'll tell you.
I've been told a rough chamber doesn't cause extraction issues and may help it. Think of it this way. Your brass is very smooth, the smoother your chamber is the greater metal to metal contact you have thereby increasing the hold on your brass.
I sent a bolt from my dad's rifle to him and had it back in about a week.
Call this guy and he'll have you take a measurement with the bolt closed. You'll need a set of feeler guages to do it right. Mail him the bolt and he'll move the handle the appropriate distance. If the bolt distance to the action is in spec he'll tell you.
I've been told a rough chamber doesn't cause extraction issues and may help it. Think of it this way. Your brass is very smooth, the smoother your chamber is the greater metal to metal contact you have thereby increasing the hold on your brass.
I sent a bolt from my dad's rifle to him and had it back in about a week.
I am not up on that type of action, but if Triggertech will fit. I would go to that. Better trigger, and easier to adjust with out having to take the action out of the stock.
kfreeze
Well-Known Member
You may want to take that one to someone to get checked out first. And try a different brand of brass or ammo if you haven't. I have a browning abolt that does the same thing sometimes with reloads in federal brass. And it always works fine with factory ammo.
I had the same issue with a Sendero SF2 in 300wm. Bolt lifted easily but nearly needed a hammer to pull it back. I sent the bolt to Dan at acu tig and got a threaded handle put on in the correct location. If I remember correctly, it was around $100 and maybe a week turn around. I took one measurement with a feeler gauge and he did the rest. 100% resolved the problem.
AKBman
Well-Known Member
Thank you for all of the options, I will be making some phone calls tomorrow. A little more information to ruminate on. Brass used was FC, RP, WW Super, PMC, and Norma, bullets were 200gr Nosler Accubonds, 180gr Remington Cor-lockts, 180gr Hornady Interloks, Sierra 180gr BT, powders used were Accurate MagPro with the Cor-lokts and NABs, Allaint 4000-MR with the Cor-lockts, and RL-22 with the Sierra BT. The MagPro and 4000-MR were both starting loads and one increment of .5gr, the RL-22 was 1gr off max, and a load I have shot for years in my Ruger M77MKII. Brass that ejected fine were RP and WW, which were the bulk of the cases, and were the 4000-MR and MagPro loads, all of the cases seemed to have a little more carbon fouling on the necks than I am used to, but neck measurements with a micrometer showed less expansion than cases from my Ruger. There were no scratches on the cases, no rings, and no marks on the case heads. I originally had no intention of shooting the Sierra loads as they were worked up in the Ruger in Norma brass, but frustration got the better of me. Thanks again folks, all of the inputs are appreciated.
Dave
Dave
rsbhunter
Well-Known Member
AKBman, one of the best $50.00 I ever spent was on a Teslong bore scope......they now have Bluetooth versions and flexible as well as rigid models on Amazon..... For cleaning, inspection of bore, chamber, crown,etc. I honestly think anybody that shoots should pay the price of a box of bullets and buy one, so they can know what's going on inside their rifles....if you have a good friend who shoots, birthday or Christmas gift, they will be very grateful... rsbhunter
Remington had a run of bad chambers because the reamers were worn and actually "chattered" when cutting the chamber. Check the brass for scratches. If the brass is scratched, that's the problem. Polishing the chamber may help; but, it normally requires a new barrel.
MagnumManiac
Well-Known Member
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- Feb 25, 2008
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I have had to replace an entire bolt body with a new Remington, a cocking piece and the extractor on another bolt.
None of these rifles had even been fired.
I just hope that the new owners get their #%^* together and start producing rifles of quality. No more pressed steel followers, I'll fitting cast metal bottom metal and faulty crapshoot triggers.
If every other company out there can supply a reasonably decent stock trigger, why can't Remington?
Cheers.
None of these rifles had even been fired.
I just hope that the new owners get their #%^* together and start producing rifles of quality. No more pressed steel followers, I'll fitting cast metal bottom metal and faulty crapshoot triggers.
If every other company out there can supply a reasonably decent stock trigger, why can't Remington?
Cheers.
I had similar issues on the rifle of a friend ( Remington 700 Alaskan 7 rm).
A Brass ring had formed in the chamber in front of the belt in what was a rough surface. Over time the ring of brass turned into a ring of rust. A slight polishing and a good clean and the problem was resolved .
If you can try to determine where exactly on the case the surface is gripping with your chamber. You could cover the surface of a brand new cartridge with a black market pen. Once the ink is dry, carefully insert it in you chamber and shoot it . That might help you to see if part of the chamber is in need of any polishing.
A Brass ring had formed in the chamber in front of the belt in what was a rough surface. Over time the ring of brass turned into a ring of rust. A slight polishing and a good clean and the problem was resolved .
If you can try to determine where exactly on the case the surface is gripping with your chamber. You could cover the surface of a brand new cartridge with a black market pen. Once the ink is dry, carefully insert it in you chamber and shoot it . That might help you to see if part of the chamber is in need of any polishing.
I don't see anywhere above where primary extraction was actually discussed...
Could be primary extraction (lack of) or- could be something else entirely.
Primary extraction isn't some hard-to-grasp concept. Five seconds with your action will tell you.
Action cleared (natch). Bolt in battery, pull back on the handle slightly.
Note the gap between the bolt handle and the back of the action- this ideally will be .005- .010. Rotate the bolt slowly out of battery- watching the gap and keeping it constant as the lugs release and enter the raceway.
There are primary extraction camming surfaces on the bolt, and the receiver. When these meet, they convert the rotation of the bolt into linear energy to pull the bolt back- thus breaking the case free from the chamber walls.
If you have too large a gap between the bolt handle and receiver, geometry dictates that you'll have more limited primary extraction force.
Vast majority of the time, "re-timing" the bolt handle- moving forward and repositioning if needed- gets those camming surfaces to engage as early as practical to maximize primary extraction.
This is likely your issue- but it's simple to rule it out. If you have the minimal clearance between bolt and receiver and the camming surfaces are working as designed, you've got another issue going on that's probably chamber-related.
Whatever you do, any "truing" work on a receiver that involves the lugs and abutments removes material and increases the gap I described above- reducing primary extraction. Lapping lugs a few thousandths won't be a big issue- but you want to avoid any more than that unless you plan on re-timing the bolt handle.
Could be primary extraction (lack of) or- could be something else entirely.
Primary extraction isn't some hard-to-grasp concept. Five seconds with your action will tell you.
Action cleared (natch). Bolt in battery, pull back on the handle slightly.
Note the gap between the bolt handle and the back of the action- this ideally will be .005- .010. Rotate the bolt slowly out of battery- watching the gap and keeping it constant as the lugs release and enter the raceway.
There are primary extraction camming surfaces on the bolt, and the receiver. When these meet, they convert the rotation of the bolt into linear energy to pull the bolt back- thus breaking the case free from the chamber walls.
If you have too large a gap between the bolt handle and receiver, geometry dictates that you'll have more limited primary extraction force.
Vast majority of the time, "re-timing" the bolt handle- moving forward and repositioning if needed- gets those camming surfaces to engage as early as practical to maximize primary extraction.
This is likely your issue- but it's simple to rule it out. If you have the minimal clearance between bolt and receiver and the camming surfaces are working as designed, you've got another issue going on that's probably chamber-related.
Whatever you do, any "truing" work on a receiver that involves the lugs and abutments removes material and increases the gap I described above- reducing primary extraction. Lapping lugs a few thousandths won't be a big issue- but you want to avoid any more than that unless you plan on re-timing the bolt handle.
shortgrass
Well-Known Member
In post #3 AKBman has a pic of a .025" feeler gauge blade inserted between the bolt handle and the receiver. He has little or no extractor cam engagement. If you'll look, every bolt action I can think of has a mechanical means of primary extraction, usually a pair of cams.
