different brands of brass and effects on charges

[QuietTexan]

You'll be off by 10+% unless you apply the density correction factor.

Unless you're using QL on a wildcat with no baseline and need to measure true volume, it doesn't really matter. Case volume itself is secondary to measuring case-to-case variance, which does not depend on the SG of the solution used. The benefit of consistency in minimizing the meniscus using isopropanol versus straight water is worth adding some portion of alcohol to water to measure case capacity in every case, IMO.

 

[Stammster]

MM ...Then why are you telling him to use IPA and water if you use kerosene?

Also my point is it incorrect to use something other than water and call it H2O capacity - by the weight difference of empty vs full. This is especially important if using that number in something like Quickload.

If just comparing cases, I agree you can use any fluid you want as long as you use the same fluid for all. The issue is don't confuse weight with H2O capacity (volume) if using something other than H2O, unless you use the correct g/cc (weight to volume ratio) to convert back to water capacity (i.e. in volume units).

 

[MagnumManiac]

Kerosene is used to measure CC's from a Burette, not for weighing capacity.
I don't use QL, if I was, I would use water, but with a tiny amount of detergent. You need to displace ALL surface tension to get accurate weighed results. Also, why does QL require weight measured to the top of the neck? There is a reason, but I'll let you figure that out.

Cheers.

 

[scdogman]

Measure speed of current load. Drop down a couple of grains and work up in .5 grains measuring speed. Shoot ocw around similar speeds.

 

[Philward]

Somebody did some work on this very subject, possibly a thread on this forum, and determined how much powder to adjust for a specified case weight change. For example(and only for example), for every 5 grain of case weight increase reduce powder by 0.1 grain.

It wasn't too long ago that I read that too so searching may provide the thread.

 

[Muddyboots]

Way too much concern over capacity. Just back down your load, run it back up in either 0.3 or 0.5 grain increments. Get your node and go shoot. My experience with Hornady 300WSM brass is that it is soft and not great so doubt if Nosler is going to be major difference.

If really concerned over the brass, go buy some Norma 300WSM brass which IMO is way better than Hornady or Nosler plus pops up available periodically.

Bullet Central has them in stock. Never did order from them, so not sure on service etc.

 

[baldhunter]

I did a three brand test one day with my 308 Win.I loaded them all the same.I had Winchester,Nosler and Remington.The Winchester and Nosler grouped the same at around .5 inch.The Remington was double that at a little over one inch.I know in the 30-06,Winchester brass has a bit more case capacity than Remington.I've had loads that were full case up in the neck a little with Winchester brass that would completely too full to the top of the neck with Remington brass.

 

[Chas1]

If this rifle is your pride and joy and your looking to squeeze every ounce of accuracy from it then there's lots you can do but to your point on brass I'd buy enough New Lapua brass or as a second option do the water/alcohol test and go from there but reduce your charge a couple of grains if your previous loads are close to max.

 

[wonderman4]

I was fortunate enough to have bought all my brass back before Hornady, Nosler, and others began making the stuff. I would say back in the 60s and early 70s. BUT, that does not mean the brands that I have (Winchester, Remington (includes R-P) and Federal) were anywhere close to being the same.

For example: My mainstay was Winchester brass. I would have to drop charges approximately 3 grains to prevent any high pressure events when using Remington brass in the 30-06. Federal was close to the Winchester Brass so no adjustments were necessary between the two.

As others have previously mentioned, it is prudent and very wise to drop charges to prevent any incidents. How much depends on the rifle and the load and the brass. The old rule of 10% is a very good one.

Weighing brass cases is not a problem, but I would suggest to also measure water capacity. Put a drop of dish soap in a half cup of water to break the interfacial tension of the water and it is a piece of cake. I did this back then and would do it again if I was starting with a fresh batch of new (or once fired) brass.

How else are you to know??

 

[bigbrad53]

Brass has it's character. Different lots/brands can react differently to pressure, especially when formed from a different chamber.
My advice: don't ever buy used rifle brass.. Just throw away the junk you bought.

It really is best to buy enough new, in-lot, for the expected life of your barrel.
And it's always in your best interest to set up a chamber & load that won't waste a lot of brass.

I've reloaded, fired tons of used brass with no problems. It's all part of reloading.

 

[waspocrew]

Size it and work your load up again. It's really not a huge issue and won't take much time. Then once you've found your node, you'll have plenty of cases to work with.

 

[CBH Australia]

Can you just keep the Nosler seperate and burn out one lot at a time or at least keep to lots of cases seperate.

If they are hunting rounds the difference in accuracy or point of impact might not be critical.

If you are trying to screw every bit of accuracy you can from this for target , long range or just because.

Then you need to sort and size brass keeping hatch weights and going through whatever your best practice is.

I'm learning every day, but opinions vary and you need to work with what you have and what you know unless you want to chase every new tool and technique until you find those that suit you.

All depends on the degree of accuracy you desire.

 

[lyle2231]

I developed a load for a 300wsm with hornady brass. I was given a bunch of once fired nosler brass. I weighed them both the hornady was 237gr and the nosler 245gr. I have never really looked into this. I understand the nosler will have a smaller capacity because it weighs more, but how much if I want the same bullet to shoot with same powder how much will I need to reduce the load? Is 9 grains even enough to make a difference?

May I suggest…. Before you weigh them, resize them, trim and then weigh them. Works great for me.

 

[Mike Matteson]

Getting brass can be a pain. It took me 10 months to get 500 Peterson 280AI brass in one lot. That should do for a 6mm/280AI cartridge rifle I having built. You can rechamber the barrel, and shorten the barrel at both ends and continue to use the barrel. I for one pickup or take used brass, and store it for a rainy day. I agree that volume weight is the way to go. I think and maybe I am wrong, but you are weighting the contents in grains. Noting if there is a difference in volume weight between cases. It use to be you could go into any sporting good store and get brass or some type. Not now, and even ordering from a supplier takes time now. Some cases are not being made presently by the high end manufacture. I am not complaining, but that's life presently. Store your used brass and turn them into a recycler. They will pay in cash. I wouldn't go down there with 50 pieces of brass, but several 100 is a different story. I think everybody is rubber necking like me looking for components for reloading our rifles, pistol, and shotguns. Correct me where I am wrong.