dies for 300rum?

dodgefreak8

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Oct 24, 2005
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Fort Morgan, Colorado
I am ready to buy dies for a rifle that I am having built. I have 100rnds of Remington brass and I would like to start prepping it. I am going to buy a neck turner and primer pocket uniformer and the necessary dies so I can be ready to load when the rifle is finished. I am going to load 230gr Berger otms. So I am unsure if I should buy a FL die and a bushing neck sizer?? Seems like I should full length re-size before trimming to length, neck turning etc... I plan to buy Redding dies with a competition seater but do I need the VLD seater plug for these OTM's?? any help would be great! thanks
 
You are going to get different opinions on this, but I am in the FL camp. Especially with the 300 RUM. The FL die will produce the same case for every firing whereas with neck sizing your case is slightly different for each firing. With the 300 RUM you will find that it will be necessary to body size every 2 - 3 firings with near max loads and possibly every firing with max loads. I know this from experience. I did not see much sense in using a 2 step process to size brass when a 1 step process i much easier and produces better results runout wise so I switched to a standard FL die.

I assume your reamer is being made to match the turned necks with about .004 -.006 clearance. Anymore than that and there is not much point in neck turning.
 
So maybe I should go with the redding set that full length sizes but uses a bushing for the necks?? I thought neck turning had advantages regardless of a "match" chamber. I thought it made it so there was consistent grip on the bullet. Do I need to look into purchasing my own reamer or is there still an advantage in neck turning with a saami spec'd chamber?? Or just forget neck turning all together?? thanks for your help!
 
I was just measuring the lot of brass I have from remington and all the cases are under the min trim length of 2.850". They are around 2.843"-2.845"... Now I haven't sized them yet but if after I size them and they are still to short should I trim them all to say 2.840"?? Normally in my reloading process I don't worry about this but if I neck turn I know all the cases have to be the same length so the trimmer stops in the same place on all the cases.
 
I have gone through an evolution of thought and practice when it comes handloading. I have tried most of the ways to skin the cat and have come to the conclusion that plain ol basic reloading will get the job done very nicely. Case in point... I got a couple of used Senderos a few year back when I was just getting into LR shooting. A 300 RUM and a 25-06. For the RUM, I turned the necks, got the bushing neck and body die with the Comp seater and with the 25-06 I used a Forster FL sizing die with the BR micrometer seater. I did nothing to prep the Win brass I go with the 25-06 other than size it through the FL sizer. No pocket uniforming, no flash hole deburring, no turning and no trimming, just chamfer the inside and out side of mouth. It shot slightly better groups than the RUM to which I did all of the above. It may be that one rifle was just a little more accurate than the other rifle. In any case, the 25-06 did extremely well without jumping through all the hoops.

That said, I do uniform pockets and debur flasholes as it sure can't hurt and maybe help a little. I also trim after sizing after the first firing. These steps do add to consistency and are not difficult to do and consistency is very important in handloading

I spoke with with a Redding tech once about which sizing die I should get and he told me that in his opinion the best dies he has ever used were plain ole FL dies with expander ball. They gave him the best results with concentricity. Now it is possible to some runout with expander balls but properly lubing the inside of the necks, I have seen little to no increase in runout.

I just got another 300 RUM built and I will not be turning the necks of the brass for that rifle. I used a "match" reamer from PTG which has a .3435 neck and the OD of the bullet seated no turn necks is .336 Idealy the neck might be a little tighter and if I had to do it again, I would probably order a .341 neck, but it should do fine.

The benefit of turning necks is that it allows you to size without an expander ball and have a consistent ID for consistent grip and tension and it allows you cut a tighter neck chamber. However it is possible to have some inside irregularity after outside turning of necks. We're getting real nit picky. However, neck turning is a real PITA and it has never shown me any real benefit.

For me, the best effort to benefit result is to not bother with neck turning. order a reamer that gives me .004-.006 clearance with no turn necks and order a custom FL sizing die to size down ~ .003 -.004 less than seated bullet OD with expander to size up to ..001-.002 less than OD of bullet. This results in minimal working of brass and minimal impact to concentricity. I will probably get some Bertram 338 EDGE brass for its quality and neck it down. I will then order a custom FL die as described above.

This is the Long Range Hunting site and precision is critical here. However, the approach to BR precision is a whole different world although there are some similarities. Neck turning is the norm in the BR world were the slightest improvement in accuracy means the difference in where you place. It is also bench conditions vs field conditions.
 
I was just measuring the lot of brass I have from remington and all the cases are under the min trim length of 2.850". They are around 2.843"-2.845"... Now I haven't sized them yet but if after I size them and they are still to short should I trim them all to say 2.840"?? Normally in my reloading process I don't worry about this but if I neck turn I know all the cases have to be the same length so the trimmer stops in the same place on all the cases.

I have the same brass and it is the same length as yours. That is common with new brass I suspect for liability reasons. It doesn't grow much after the first firing but that is when I usually trim brass and after measuring all the cases, I will trim to maybe .001 longer than the shorter case so all the cases wil be with .001 or so of each other. .001 difference in length is not going to mean squat.... neither is .005 difference.
 
I ordered a set of hornady dies yesterday for $25. This should at least let me get started on brass prep. I'll probably order a redding micrometer seating die when the rifle is finished and I start loading rounds. I'll talk to my smith before he chambers the barrel and see what his reamer is spec'd at. Thanks again for the help!
 
The Hornady set should do you fine for starters. I highly recommend a competition or custom seater of some kind. The Redding is excellent. You should also order the VLD seating plug for it too. You should be able to get one through Sinclair. The Forster is just as good for less $$$.

One other very useful tool is a runout gauge. Reloading without one is like reloading blind. I learned a lot of what to do and what not to do by using one. I use a Sinclair.
 
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