Did I really mess up my first bedding attempt
- Thread starter matth89
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Hopefully you can separate the action from the stock If the MarineTex has cured. If you separate them post pics of what is stuck to the action and possibly someone can direct you from there. In retrospect, wax any spot you don't have taped. Wax is much easier to remove. Wax the tape as well and plug any opening with modeling clay. Good luck and hopefully things separate easily.
The only time I replace action screws is if they are blade screw heads.I use hex head screws from Brownells as replacement screws.
You should use the same screws you took out unless you have changed the distance with a new stock.
I used paste wax for years and never had a problem but I switched to a spray can release from Brownells and I make sure I use it INSIDE the action as well just incase.
Mistakes are fine and you will make many in the road in life just learn and re-do the bedding after watching enough video's to be confident.
You should use the same screws you took out unless you have changed the distance with a new stock.
I used paste wax for years and never had a problem but I switched to a spray can release from Brownells and I make sure I use it INSIDE the action as well just incase.
Mistakes are fine and you will make many in the road in life just learn and re-do the bedding after watching enough video's to be confident.
These are what I use with surgical tubing to pull the action down into the stock.
Bedding Guide Screws
Bedding Guide Screws
I have some bolts that I just cut the heads off of to use as guides. Less of a chance to push bedding compound up into the action by having the screws in action first and then putting together.
Make sure to put wax on the screws too. I use surgical tubing as well. I have also used tape around the stock and action as well.
These are for a Remington
Make sure to put wax on the screws too. I use surgical tubing as well. I have also used tape around the stock and action as well.
These are for a Remington
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Darrlye I have had terrible luck with the surgical tubing method.I had to remove all bedding compound with a dremel tool one time and have not use it again.
What I do works for me but others will offer their way of doing it and they may have had great results their way.
This is my method:After I apply release and let it dry I put my Devcon in the recoil recess and at the rear of the action around the action screw and put my original screws in the action and tighten until I have resistance and back off 1 full turn on both action screws.Let it sit and it will fill in where I back off 1 full turn and let it sit until it sets up,about 12 hours and pull it apart and let it sit for another 12 hours.
After 24 hours I install the barrelled action back into the stock and set up a dial indicator on the barrel and tighten to full contact and if I have .003 or more stock stress I have more work to be done.
If there is metal on the bottom of the stock I bet that too if I'm pillar bedding seperate from top bedding.
Thats my method and taught to me by one of the best gunsmiths I have ever known
What I do works for me but others will offer their way of doing it and they may have had great results their way.
This is my method:After I apply release and let it dry I put my Devcon in the recoil recess and at the rear of the action around the action screw and put my original screws in the action and tighten until I have resistance and back off 1 full turn on both action screws.Let it sit and it will fill in where I back off 1 full turn and let it sit until it sets up,about 12 hours and pull it apart and let it sit for another 12 hours.
After 24 hours I install the barrelled action back into the stock and set up a dial indicator on the barrel and tighten to full contact and if I have .003 or more stock stress I have more work to be done.
If there is metal on the bottom of the stock I bet that too if I'm pillar bedding seperate from top bedding.
Thats my method and taught to me by one of the best gunsmiths I have ever known
Squeeeeze that looks top notch buddy,how did it shoot afterwards?
jimbires
Well-Known Member
I did a write up on a bedding job . maybe there is some tips there to help you . link below .
the one I couldn't pass up
I picked it up last night . looking it over , I'm very happy with it . I can't wait to get a scope on it, and shoot it . it's a trued short action remington , with a 8 twist shilen select match #4 magnum sporter bbl . bell and carlson stock with aluminum bedding block . a very crisp...
forum.nosler.com
It shot great after all the work and working the break in/cleaning process. After every cleaning/shooting groups got better. Just a little Savage light weight hunter in .270 shooting factory ELD-X 145's. Shot maybe a box and a half through it. Bought it to play with, stiffened stock, filled the butt with foam, bedded lug/front and back of action (minus tang) just to see what kind of accuracy potential it had. Group is at 100 yards
I only have 1 270 now as I traded the other 3 for other rifles.One of the best killing rifles on the market.
I traded the other 3 due to the fact that I shoot mainly 30 cal rifles and can load bigger bullets than was available back then for the 270.
Wish I had them back.
I traded the other 3 due to the fact that I shoot mainly 30 cal rifles and can load bigger bullets than was available back then for the 270.
Wish I had them back.
I learned to repair shotgun stocks using the surgical tubing and an epoxy called Double Bubble prior to working on rifle bedding. A little dry film release agent on the tubing and the proper amount of epoxy is key. I have worked with aviation epoxies in both R&D and experimental aircraft repair. I have tried them all, there are plenty of tricks to getting the perfect bedding job, and I definitely don't know the majority. I just know what has worked for me in the past.
Since Forster finally got a shipment of stock maker's screws for the Model 70 in stock and on the way, I can play with this Pre-64 358 Winchester.
It's been a while since I have done one with a blind magazine though. We'll see how it goes.
MagnumManiac
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2008
- Messages
- 5,555
If you do ever get epoxy in the screw holes and action, as long as it comes apart ok, you can remove the excess easily by applying a soldering iron inside the action and allow it to get hot, the epoxy will just fallout.
I just made a boo boo on my SPS 300 RUM, after letting the soldering iron sit for 15 minutes, the bedding (Devcon) came out as one perfect piece all cured.
I simply re-did the job but added holes, which was my mistake, to add a mechanical lock in the injection moulded stock.
This is not my first boo boo.
Cheers.
I just made a boo boo on my SPS 300 RUM, after letting the soldering iron sit for 15 minutes, the bedding (Devcon) came out as one perfect piece all cured.
I simply re-did the job but added holes, which was my mistake, to add a mechanical lock in the injection moulded stock.
This is not my first boo boo.
Cheers.
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2014
- Messages
- 15
I know there are others as well, but Ernie the Gunsmith has excellent illustrated tutorials on action and pillar bedding. Has materials available also. Followed his directions on a Rem 700 .243 and it turned out great. highly recommend you check his site.
