Custom Howa 1500 Good and Safe Buy?

[timberelk]

Foreword: I am almost extensively an archery hunter but hunt with a rifle when I draw hard to acquire deer and elk permits. I have limited knowledge about firearms...

Have a buddy in the pawn industry and he recently acquired a 300 WSM howa 1500 with a muzzle brake and a bell and carlson sock ($270 new) with a timney trigger ($110 new) and I can grab it for $350. Gun does look like it has been shot a fair amount but not abused.

I would get rid of my 300 win mag browning a bolt 3 for this gun and the only thing stopping me now is the trigger... I know timney is a quality trigger but the timney allows the gun to fire with such little trigger pressure it concerns me about accidentally fire while hunting (slam fire or dropped gun fire). I threw the bolt forward as hard as I could multiple times and no slam fire and hit the gun on the ground on its but pad fair firmly and still not slam fire but knowing so little about triggers it concerns me still.

We messed with the take up and trigger weight for about 2 minutes and it added a little to the mount of pressure it takes to fire the gun but it still concerns me because I do not know who installed it and if it was installed correctly.

I have shot the gun 5 times at a local range and there were no issues that I could see



What are your guys thoughts?

 

[MudRunner2005]

Just personal opinion...I'd keep the Browning if I was in this situation.

 

[Deleted member 46119]

Timney triggers are easy to adjust. Support is great. Give them a call.

Sounds like quite a rifle for the money.

 

[Barrelnut]

For me, one of the main things when buying a used gun is the amount of barrel life remaining. If the barrel is about toast, it will cost you to replace it.

1) Would be great if your buddy had a bore scope to look at the barrel.
2) Does it shoot better than your Browning?
3) How much barrel life is left on the Browning?

That's how I would look at it.

 

[timberelk]

For me, one of the main things when buying a used gun is the amount of barrel life remaining. If the barrel is about toast, it will cost you to replace it.

1) Would be great if your buddy had a bore scope to look at the barrel.
2) Does it shoot better than your Browning?
3) How much barrel life is left on the Browning?

That's how I would look at it.

Browning is essentially brand new, less than 2 boxes of ammo through it. But I do not enjoy shooting the gun because of the recoil, so it rarely gets shot. This 300 WSM with the brake and decelerator but pad is not bad to shoot at all, almost enjoyable!

I don't shoot a lot typically, possibly one to two boxes a month. Don't have a bore scope and haven't shot the rifle at any distance so I do not know how the barrel is.

Sounds like my trigger slam fire concern doesn't concern anyone else?

 

[Deleted member 46119]

Sounds like my trigger slam fire concern doesn't concern anyone else?

A heavy trigger is no guarantee against slam fires.
A light trigger is no guarantee that you will have slam fires.

It's sear engagement.

My Jewel triggers never slam fire. Set to ounces.
My Timney triggers never slam fire. Set to 1 1/2 pounds.
My double set triggers never slam fire. Set to grams.
My fly set triggers (Conjar) never slam fire.
My Jard tiggers never slam fire (touchy adjustment though).

Any of those that have adjustable engagement, I can make slam fire by bringing the engagement too low.

 

[Dr. Vette]

If you can find anyone with a trigger gauge, use it. Find out what the real setting is on the trigger so you know what you've got. It might be you're used to a 6 pound trigger, so a nice 2 pound trigger feels "way too light" for you.

If the trigger is truly adjusted too low, send it to Timney. I had that with one on a Weatherby Mark V, and they sent me a new one properly adjusted as the previous owner had screwed it up. Or, just send it to them to test and adjust. They will set it to whatever weight you want - but it does help if you know what you've already got.

The price on that rifle is a steal if it is what you've described.

 

[Deleted member 46119]

...The price on that rifle is a steal if it is what you've described.

Like
What he said..

 

[timberelk]

If you can find anyone with a trigger gauge, use it. Find out what the real setting is on the trigger so you know what you've got. It might be you're used to a 6 pound trigger, so a nice 2 pound trigger feels "way too light" for you.

If the trigger is truly adjusted too low, send it to Timney. I had that with one on a Weatherby Mark V, and they sent me a new one properly adjusted as the previous owner had screwed it up. Or, just send it to them to test and adjust. They will set it to whatever weight you want - but it does help if you know what you've already got.

The price on that rifle is a steal if it is what you've described.

I am used to decent factory triggers but have not played with nice or very nice triggers so you may be correct. I'll look into the trigger gauge, but I have never seen or used one...

Good idea! Maybe I could send it into timney and have them set it at 2.5-3lbs so I know it is functioning properly and is safe

 

[timberelk]

For me, one of the main things when buying a used gun is the amount of barrel life remaining. If the barrel is about toast, it will cost you to replace it.

1) Would be great if your buddy had a bore scope to look at the barrel.
2) Does it shoot better than your Browning?
3) How much barrel life is left on the Browning?

That's how I would look at it.

If i get access to a bore scope, what exactly am I suppose to be looking for?

 

[BriKW]

It really wouldn't do us any good in my opinion to try and describe to you what to look for with a bore scope. I'm not being rude to you at all, it's just that with the questions you are asking, and some of the comments you are making, it's obvious you haven't to much experience with the technical side of firearms. My advice to you would be to request to have a competent gunsmith look at the barrel for you via a bore scope. What he will be looking for is the condition of the throat and how far forward the throat has eroded. Also the level of copper and carbon fouling along the barrels rifling. To try and explain to you via a forrum such as this with what you will/should or shouldn't be seeing will only serve to confuse you more.

If it were me, and I had an interest in it, I would do one of two things. Request to allow a smith to look at it before making the purchase, or Ask if you purchase it if you have a couple days to allow a smith to evaluate the barrel and return it for a refund if it's shot out.

Buy the rifle and try it out. It may be a hammer. Clean the barrel untill you get a clean patch. If it still wont shoot have it rebarreld. You have little in it anyway. Chances are it hasn't been abused at all, and some people give up on a barrel when all it really needs is a good cleaning.

Good luck with whichever you decide. Hope we helped in some way.

 

[Capt RB]

If it does what you want buy it. At 350 the action alone is well worth it along with the stock. It is unlikely that a hunting rifle has a shot out bore. Most guns that have above average recoil get shot very little. In fact most don't have the barrel fully broken in before they are sold the first time.
As far as the trigger. The trigger assembly is a 1 screw assembly that fits into a machined slot. The rifle wouldn't fire if assembled wrong. Slam fire or most other accidental discharge is a reason to have a competent smith look at it. Again at 350 buy it you will get your money back.

 

[timberelk]

Im thinking of keeping browning a bolt 300 mag and getting a quality clamp on muzzle brake like whit machine to make the gun more enjoyable. But my a bolt 3 has a crowned barrel, will the clamp on create any issues?

 

[MudRunner2005]

Im thinking of keeping browning a bolt 300 mag and getting a quality clamp on muzzle brake like whit machine to make the gun more enjoyable. But my a bolt 3 has a crowned barrel, will the clamp on create any issues?

If you have a gunsmith nearby, I'd have him thread the barrel and then install a muzzle brake, it won't be that expensive of an endeavor, and the end result will be a much nicer setup.

Just my personal preference, but i'm not a fan of "clamp-on" stuff for precision/hunting rifles.